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Old 07-28-2017, 09:44 AM   #16
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Scottly,

1- I'd chip out the drain, replace that, then drypack the new floor to the desired pre-slope height.

2- If you are concerned about drywall hitting concrete* use ceement board. Use only one waterproof layer. The kerdi or the sheet plastic.

3- Skip the pre-formed pan and solve all your problems at once with drypack.

* If you have slab moisture damaging your drywall, you have much larger issues to deal with.
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Old 07-28-2017, 10:36 AM   #17
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I'd do the same, replace the drain and ditch the Kerdi pan.
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Old 07-28-2017, 01:28 PM   #18
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Makes sense. Never did a dry pack floor, but no time like the present to learn it. Thank you gents.
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Old 07-28-2017, 01:35 PM   #19
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A mudbed is sort of like working with wet beach sand. You place it, pack it, and can shape it. It stays porous because of all of the sand and lean cement mixture. Even if you make a mockup and do a trial one, it is inexpensive. Your second one will go much faster and be better, but often, the first one is fine.
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Old 07-28-2017, 08:13 PM   #20
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It's not too hard to do the mud floor. I did okay on my first attempt. There are some good tutorials about mixing it on this site. Read them and follow them and you will have better success. Get a helper to mix. My son helped me and other than working to get the mixture correct it was a big help.
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Old 07-29-2017, 07:59 AM   #21
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Nother one

See my reply to Florida Sunken Shower (ugh) post of today.

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Old 07-29-2017, 10:43 AM   #22
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Also, check out the "shower construction info" thread in the liberry. Lots of info there.
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:24 AM   #23
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Level line question

I know I'm over-thinking this, but I have a machinest background, not a plumbing/tile background, so please set me straight. Shower dimension is 54x32. If I slope to a level line at 1/4" per foot, my level line will be roughly 1/2" higher than center on the long ends. Do I leave the short ends the same? That results in a higher taper than the long ends???? Won't that look kinda goofy?
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:06 PM   #24
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Hi Scottly, you measure the farthest point from the drain and slope 1/4" per foot from there. Yes, the shorter distances will be a bit steeper, but there's really no way around it. You want a level perimeter.
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:52 AM   #25
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Thank you!! Makes sense.
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Old 08-02-2017, 02:33 PM   #26
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Sakrete says if you can't tile within 16hrs of hardening, you need to wait 28 days. Can someone explain that to me? I don't see it mentioned on this site in the mortar bed posts.
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Old 08-02-2017, 02:38 PM   #27
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Sackrete says that about what, Scottly?
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Old 08-03-2017, 04:54 AM   #28
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Save time and scroll to bottom. http://www.sakrete.com/blog/creating...krete-sand-mix
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:39 AM   #29
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He's referencing the note after the article from sakrete. Never saw that anywhere. Do you have cast iron pipes? Does the shower drain well?
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Old 08-03-2017, 06:22 PM   #30
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ABS drain pipe....drain has worked well. I got lucky tonight....I was cutting the pipe for the Kerdi drain....and chseling out around it...and I see a copper water line 2" from the drain pipe. God was watching over me as Iissed it with the chisel.
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