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Old 05-01-2017, 06:07 AM   #76
branimal
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Advice on building stand alone tiled shower...

Hey guys the time has come for me to place the shower. I'm using a kerdi linear sloped tray and kerdi linear drain. I'd like to place the tray in a corner with a column in it.

I know cutting the tray by even amounts on each side is recommended. But it seems with my layout the slope should bring the water to the drain. Is that a correct assumption? Any other issues I might run into?

Here's my layout. The second pic shows the drain and direction of water flow.

I'd like to have the shower head directed at one of the walls. Or I could do a rain shower.
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Last edited by jgleason; 05-07-2017 at 07:14 AM.
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Old 05-24-2017, 09:41 PM   #77
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How do you attach a kerdi linear shower drain to 2" cast iron p trap when there's no access from below? I still have access currently to setup something on my p trap to make attaching to the linear drain easier. But the subfloor is going down this week.

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Old 05-25-2017, 08:17 AM   #78
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Old 05-25-2017, 11:00 AM   #79
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Is your cast iron p trap no hub, or the older hub type cast iron?

In the final configuration, what will the vertical distance be between the bottom of the Kerdi Line drain outlet and the top of the cast iron p trap inlet? The drain outlet will need to be directly over the p trap inlet, zero offset in either direction.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 05-25-2017, 11:34 AM   #80
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- No hub cast iron p trap
- will check on the distance, but roughly 3"-5" from bottom of drain outlet to top of the trap.
- yes will expect zero offset

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Old 05-25-2017, 01:20 PM   #81
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If you had access from below, you could cut a small riser of cast iron (or plastic pipe, since in 2" trade size, the ODs only differ by 25 mils), and after placing the drain and riser, tighten the two couplings at each end of the riser.

The only way I see to end up with that same arrangement without access from below would be to coordinate the drain installation with the subfloor installation. I.e. install the subfloor under the drain, install the drain, and reach into the joist bay to tighten the two couplings, then finish the subfloor. I don't know if the workflow order of the shower pan would allow this.

The Schluter instructions for installing the Kerdi-Line drain from above assume a plastic hub/spigot joint in the riser from the p-trap. They say to cut the proper height plastic riser and attach it to the Kerdi-Line with the rubber coupling. Then just before setting the drain, apply solvent cement to the plastic hub and the end of the plastic riser, and seat the riser into the hub as you set the drain. You get one shot.

If you want to go that route, the simplest option is to replace your no-hub p-trap with a plastic p-trap. If the plastic p-trap is a different length from the no-hub p-trap, you'd have to adjust the plumbing, either by cutting the cast-iron trap arm or gluing in a plastic extension to the plastic p-trap, depending.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 05-25-2017, 01:44 PM   #82
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P.S. If you have 4" or more between the bottom of the Kerdi-Line's metal outlet and the top of the cast iron p-trap, then the following option should also work:

A 2" no-hub coupling has a shield that is 2-1/8" wide, I think that is 1" for pipe on each side, plus a 1/8" rubber stop in the middle. A 2" plastic solvent coupling is 1-3/4" long, consisting of 3/4" deep hubs and a 1/4" stop in the middle. So if you stack 3 couplings, no-hub/plastic/no-hub, then ignoring the pipe take-up on the two ends of the stack, the rise is 4".

That means you could cut a 1-3/4" length of plastic pipe, solvent weld that into a 2" plastic coupling, and secure the other end to the cast-iron p-trap with a no-hub coupling. Then you can follow Schluter's instructions for installing the Kerdi-Line drain from above, replacing Schluter's rubber coupling with a (shorter) no-hub coupling if necessary.

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Old 05-26-2017, 08:06 AM   #83
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Wayne.... I like the idea of reaching into the joist bay to tighten up the couplings. I'm going to give that a shot first.

I didn't know connecting PVC/ABS to cast iron was an option. If the joist bay option doesn't work, I'll explore connecting plastic to cast iron.

Kerdi suggests cutting a 5" hole in the subfloor and reaching in to tighten the couplings. Seems like a hole that big could weaken the structural integrity of the shower floor.

Thanks for the advice!!!


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Old 07-28-2017, 05:38 AM   #84
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Tiling an 9x 8 bathroom

I'm tiling a 9x 8 bathroom that has a stand alone shower, bathtub, toilet and double vanity.

The ceiling height varies in the room due to a dropped ceiling in the center of the room. See diagram. The blue ink signifies ceiling height while the pencil illustrates room length and width.

I have a few questions.

1. On the side with shower and tub I plan on going up to 96".

On the toilet and double vanity side, I plan on going up to 48"

The transition will occur at a door and a corner.

Is this good design? Does it look good

2. I plan on buying porcelain tile from Home Depot. 15% off coupon.

Given the room dimensions, is there a limit on wall size tile & floor size tile?

I prefer rectangular shapes to square shapes. Like 12x 24, 6x 24.

Any advice on choosing tile size would be very helpful.

Thanks

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Old 07-28-2017, 08:38 AM   #85
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1. Depends on who you ask. I think transitions often look better mid-wall. Were it me, I'd go 96" shower only and drop to 48" for rest of room.

2. Look for flatness, it will make your life easier. Some large format stuff is pretty bowed and will require less offset to not look like basket weave. Pillowed edge on tile will be more forgiving as well.
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Old 07-28-2017, 11:16 AM   #86
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[quote=Carbidetooth;1476597]



2. Look for flatness.../QUOTE]


different tile styles have more contour to their tiles?






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Old 07-28-2017, 11:17 AM   #87
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Also what size tile should i use on my schulter kerdi shower tray. It's ~ 48 x 38" or so


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Old 07-28-2017, 12:20 PM   #88
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I like to keep shower floor tiles 4x4 or smaller. I would avoid pebbles or small mosaics myself. Lots of posts here on the forum with folks having problems when using small materials over foam bases.
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Old 08-09-2017, 07:41 AM   #89
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Newbie Tile layout question

I'm installing tile in a gut renovated bathroom. 9' Long by 8' wide.

I've got a 12x24" tile on the walls. I was planing on using 6x24" tile on the floors.

The floor tile's long side would be parallel to the 8' wide. Will this make the bathroom floor look to "choppy" -meaning too many lines? Can this be overcome by tighter spacing? Or a matching grout color?

Or should I find a 12x24" tile for the floor?

Thanks.




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Old 08-17-2017, 10:21 PM   #90
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Cutting kerdi linear sloped shower tray

I need to cut a kerdi LS shower tray. It's slopes to a linear drain.

1. Can I cut with a circular saw? Or is there a better way? Jigsaw?

2. When cutting out the length should I cut off the thickest part? I'm guessing the thinnest part will line up best with the linear drain.



Thanks !
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