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Old 04-16-2017, 10:33 AM   #61
rmckee84
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I think the best can only be determined by each individual situation. Certain situations require a different approach and prep. If it's an interior dry area there's nothing wrong with drywall installed correctly.

By best what are you asking? The options are numerous and as long as they are secured correctly they have little to do with how well they "hang". The most important thing is to install the backer correctly, use the proper thinset, and proper installation methods.
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Old 04-16-2017, 02:09 PM   #62
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What Ryan said. Also, get the studs as straight and inline as you can so the CBU will be flat. As you set the tiles, check for level and also check the flatness of the face of the tiles. A lot of people want the subway look (broken joint), If you install two 24 inch tiles side by side and they aren't flat on the face horizontally, the next row of tile above those will have lippage. So, a little bit of buttering will likely need to be done in places. This is why I like the Natural stone and large tile thinset from Customs. It's the same thinset that was called medium bed before they changed the bags.
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Old 04-16-2017, 03:49 PM   #63
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I think the best can only be determined by each individual situation. Certain situations require a different approach and prep. If it's an interior dry area there's nothing wrong with drywall installed correctly.



By best what are you asking? The options are numerous and as long as they are secured correctly they have little to do with how well they "hang". The most important thing is to install the backer correctly, use the proper thinset, and proper installation methods.

By "best" I mean the ability to hold the weight of large tile.

I ordered some 1/2" moisture resistant purple xp drywall to use in non wet areas of my bathroom. I was talking to a guy in Home Depot and he said the 12x24" tile and mortar installed on drywall would lead to cracking or could even fall off. He said the tile was too heavy for the drywall, even in non-wet areas.

Now that I think about it, regardless of tile size - one 12 x 24 vs eight 6 x 6s -the weight is the same per unit area.

I guess he was suggesting the cbu is more grippy with regards to the mortar contact. Admittedly I'm a bit confused.









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Old 04-16-2017, 04:21 PM   #64
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The best advice I can give you would be to limit the questions that you ask at the big box stores to "where is _______ located?" Even that can be risky at times...

Honestly regular drywall would be a better choice in the dry areas than the MR. The purple/green/blue board sometimes has a way coating that can interfere with the thinset bond. As long as you install the drywall correctly, tape your seams, and install your tile properly it will not fall off the wall. It is not too heavy for drywall. Please do me a favor and next time you see this person tell him he should stick to stocking shelves instead of giving fake advice....

Cement board is perfectly fine as well, its just more of a pain to cut and deal with.
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:21 PM   #65
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The best advice I can give you would be to limit the questions that you ask at the big box stores to "where is _______ located?" Even that can be risky at times...



Honestly regular drywall would be a better choice in the dry areas than the MR. The purple/green/blue board sometimes has a way coating that can interfere with the thinset bond. As long as you install the drywall correctly, tape your seams, and install your tile properly it will not fall off the wall. It is not too heavy for drywall. Please do me a favor and next time you see this person tell him he should stick to stocking shelves instead of giving fake advice....



Cement board is perfectly fine as well, its just more of a pain to cut and deal with.


Ok thanks. This leaves me with one problem. What do I do with all the purple board I've got sitting here? Is there a way to get it to adhere reliably or should I return it and buy regular Sheetrock or cement board.


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Old 04-16-2017, 05:36 PM   #66
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Jake, we removed the usual Quote button from our site years ago to prevent people indiscriminately quoting entire posts with ever post they make. 'Specially when it's the post immediately above theirs. Really, it's not necessary. Quoting only relevant portions of earlier posts when necessary is fine, of course.

My advice would be to return the MR board and exchange it for plain white drywall.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 04-16-2017, 06:03 PM   #67
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just chiming in with some anecdotal, first-timer, DIY experience with the purple Xp board.
Just take this with a grain of salt since I don't have the experience of the pro's here, but i wouldn't hesitate to use it again.

According to Nat. Gypsum website it can be used as a tile backer board in dry areas.

I didn't notice any sort of coating that made me suspicious about tiles not sticking. If anything, it almost seemed to have a subtle almost cloth-like texture. ie the opposite of slick , smooth or shiney, which would make suspicious.
FYI my GC did a really nice skim coat (compound + plaster of paris) first so I could also paint at any point... i don't know if that makes a difference, but I've also done sample boards directly on the purple and nothing looked unusual or suspicious at all.

I only used light 3x6 subway tiles, so nothing thick and heavy. Finished several months ago, and no signs of any problems even when it transitioned to cement board on the lower section. If I knew exactly how far the tiles were going I might have done cement board all the way to that point. but i didn't and it does not seem to be causing any sort of problem.

So no regrets with the purple - it seems to be very well made and may be slightly superior to green board. (according to the specs its stiffer and doesn't need extra support).
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:46 PM   #68
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Got some information from national gypsum. The maker of the purple sheathed Sheetrock I bought.

the load/weight for tile on paper-faced gypsum board is 6.5#/sf.

For fiber glass face boards ~ 6, 7#ís/sf.

PermaBase cement board are 20#/sf interior and 9# for exterior.


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Old 04-24-2017, 05:58 PM   #69
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Advice on building stand alone tiled shower...

I plan to go up about 8' on one wall with tile. The ceiling goes to 10'.

I left the top ~2 feet of Sheetrock intact bc it has an irregular shape. (Think 1980s Miami vice).

The top 2' is 5/8" Sheetrock. Is it ok if I use 1/2" sheet for the bottom 8'. After the tile and mortar the bottom will be wider than the top anyway.

I was wondering if there were any joint issues I'd breach.

Thanks
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:32 PM   #70
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Jake, I'm sorry but I'm not following your question. I guess others are having the same problem. You might have to explain it in a little more depth as to what you're asking.

I'm trying to figure out the reason to use 5/8 for the top two ft and only 1/2 on the lower 8 ft.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:07 PM   #71
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Jake, I'm sorry but I'm not following your question. I guess others are having the same problem. You might have to explain it in a little more depth as to what you're asking.



I'm trying to figure out the reason to use 5/8 for the top two ft and only 1/2 on the lower 8 ft.

1. I don't want to cut out the top 2 feet or so because I doubt I can recreate the shape on the top two feet - see curvature in pic. That top two feet is 5/8" thick.

2. Because I idiotically bought a lot 1/2 purple board.

I could go out and buy 5/8" to do the job right. Its somewhat of a hassle because Id have to pay $50 delivery of a few sheets of drywall.

So I was wondering if I could use the materials I have on hand.

Thanks


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Old 04-25-2017, 07:12 PM   #72
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You can shim the walls out to make the 1/2" flush with 5/8". Is this in the shower?
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:18 PM   #73
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No it's a back wall. Toilet and the head of a freestanding tub.


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Old 04-26-2017, 06:52 AM   #74
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I'm gonna buy some 5/8" sheet and be done with it.


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Old 04-26-2017, 12:07 PM   #75
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Ok, I see. I think you're doing the right thing by getting the walls flush, by buying 5/8 rock or furring out the wall 1/8 like Ryan said.
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