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Old 03-28-2017, 06:52 AM   #46
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Jake, I've combined your three active threads into this one. Let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and all the history is in one place.

Redgard requires two coats in the application you'll be using, and you'll find that an initial primer coat will make for a better bond. The primer coat consists of four parts water to one part Redgard. Then you would follow up with two full strength coats. I would also recommend you get a wet-film thickness gauge to make sure you're applying each coat at the proper thickness. It's a lot different than just "painting it on".

I would also recommend you use the reinforcing fabric at the corners and seams. This would be in addition to the mesh tape and thinset mortar required by the manufacturer of the cement board you're using.

What is your plan for the shower floor? Are you still planning on using a custom base of some sort?
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Old 03-28-2017, 06:57 AM   #47
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Familiarize yourself with this before starting with Redgard. Pay special attention to the thickness requirements for each coat.
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Old 04-01-2017, 05:56 PM   #48
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Advice on building stand alone tiled shower...

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Originally Posted by cx View Post
I'll ask once again that you change your permanent signature line to a first name for us to use.



I know nothing about those shims, but if you need to change the support of your subfloor I'd strongly recommend you do it by sistering some 20by material to your joist to create that support.



My opinion; worth price charged.


The low spots were caused by a partially buckled joist and another joist that was sitting lower than others. I've sistered 2x4s and 2x6s to get the floor level.


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Old 04-01-2017, 06:12 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kman View Post
Jake, I've combined your three active threads into this one. Let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and all the history is in one place.



Redgard requires two coats in the application you'll be using, and you'll find that an initial primer coat will make for a better bond. The primer coat consists of four parts water to one part Redgard. Then you would follow up with two full strength coats. I would also recommend you get a wet-film thickness gauge to make sure you're applying each coat at the proper thickness. It's a lot different than just "painting it on".



I would also recommend you use the reinforcing fabric at the corners and seams. This would be in addition to the mesh tape and thinset mortar required by the manufacturer of the cement board you're using.



What is your plan for the shower floor? Are you still planning on using a custom base of some sort?


Thanks for combining the threads. I created separate threads because my new questions were off topic to the first question, but I can see how having the entire context can help people providing advise.

I am using the kerdi sloped tray with linear drain.



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Old 04-01-2017, 07:18 PM   #50
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Familiarize yourself with this before starting with Redgard. Pay special attention to the thickness requirements for each coat.


Thanks for the link.... I'm still not clear if redguard only needs to the applied to just tiled-wet areas or to all tiled areas.




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Old 04-01-2017, 08:20 PM   #51
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Depends upon what you're using it for, Jake. RedGard is both a waterproofing membrane (A118.10) and a crack isolation membrane (A118.12).
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Old 04-15-2017, 08:13 AM   #52
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Hey guys, I'm close to installing the kerdi presloped shower tray to my subfloor. The directions call for unmodified thinset mortar. I've seen fortified and standard thinset mortar at Home Depot. Which one of these should I buy? What's the difference bw white and grey?

And can I use the same bag to attach tile to the cement board?
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Old 04-15-2017, 08:39 AM   #53
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Jake, the Schluter recommendations allow the use of an un-modified thinset mortar to bond the shower tray to a wood framed subfloor, rather than requiring it. That's simply a matter of convenience for their customers so they don't hafta purchase a modified thinset mortar to properly install the tray and an un-modified to bond tile to Kerdi. You can certainly use a modified thinset mortar to set that tray on your wood floor.

For setting that foam tray and bonding to a CBU (not sure why you'd be doing that), I would recommend from your list the VersaBond.

The difference between white and gray thinset mortars is the price and color. Some folks prefer to work with the white mortar whether they actually need it or not.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 04-15-2017, 08:59 AM   #54
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Ok I did some research.

Sounds like the standard thinset mortar is what I need to connect the kerdi shower pan to the subfloor. Bag for $6.97 pictured above.

For the large format tile installation I'll need :
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Old 04-15-2017, 09:37 AM   #55
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Quote:
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Jake, the Schluter recommendations allow the use of an un-modified thinset mortar to bond the shower tray to a wood framed subfloor, rather than requiring it. That's simply a matter of convenience for their customers so they don't hafta purchase a modified thinset mortar to properly install the tray and an un-modified to bond tile to Kerdi. You can certainly use a modified thinset mortar to set that tray on your wood floor.



For setting that foam tray and bonding to a CBU (not sure why you'd be doing that), I would recommend from your list the VersaBond.



The difference between white and gray thinset mortars is the price and color. Some folks prefer to work with the white mortar whether they actually need it or not.



My opinion; worth price charged.


Thanks Cx!

I misspoke when I said attach kerdi tray to Cbu. I am attaching it to my wooden subfloor.

I'll grab a bag of the versabond to attach the kerdi board. Will be useful for smaller tile installation as well.




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Old 04-15-2017, 09:41 AM   #56
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I don't really care about their warranty. I haven't bought unmodified in years and have no need for it. I would use the Travertine and Large tile thinset for the whole job.
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Old 04-16-2017, 04:36 AM   #57
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Tile size advice for 8'x9' bathroom

I am redoing my bathroom and the time has come to start looking at tile. Seems like 12" x 24" tile is more fashionable - fewer grout lines,
More styles to choose from at least at my local HD.

Is this size format tile appropriate for the floors and walls? The bathroom has high ceilings.

My bathroom will have a custom shower,
Freestanding tub, toilet and double vanity.

Thanks guys.


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Old 04-16-2017, 09:40 AM   #58
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We are using a lot of 12x24 tiles on walls and floors. Just find something smaller for your shower floor.
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:15 AM   #59
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We are using a lot of 12x24 tiles on walls and floors. Just find something smaller for your shower floor.


Yep I'll make that a smaller tile.




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Old 04-16-2017, 10:18 AM   #60
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Advice on building stand alone tiled shower...

What is the ideal board to hang Large format tile (12x24") off of? I've read cement board is the best for larger tile even if it's not a "wet" area.

Thanks


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