Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-22-2017, 06:57 AM   #31
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Houston Remodeler View Post
Any tempered glass can shatter (like car glass so its safer then float / window / annealed glass) when hit on the small edge.



Generally you can beat on the large flat side and nothing happens.



Its the edges you need to be careful of.


Thanks Houston.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2017, 08:52 PM   #32
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 11,665
Tempered glass doesn't like scratches or sharp impacts, other than that, it's pretty strong.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2017, 12:26 PM   #33
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 77
Cut the floorboard up to 48 1/4" (expansion gap) and dry fit the new plywood. When the ply is flush to the opposing floorboard the gap is 1/4" at the north end of my cut but it's starts to grow to 3/4" at the south end of my cut.

Turns out some of the metals studs I was measuring against weren't plumb - rookie mistake to depend on a metal stud as a reference point.

What are my options at this point?

Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2017, 12:59 PM   #34
Houston Remodeler
Pondering retirement daily

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 27,350


Got a picture?
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2017, 02:44 PM   #35
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 11,665
Quote:
What are my options at this point?
Bite the bullet, get a new sheet of ply, measure carefully, cut a new piece!

At 48" or so, you'll be crossing at least 2 joist bays, which is good. You don't want any ply patches that are only bridging one bay, since that puts a huge load on the fasteners when it sags in the middle with a load. Having a joist in the middle really helps. It also significantly helps if you can offset the joints between sheets.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 01:48 PM   #36
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 77
So as luck would have it the section of subfloor I intended on keeping is warped and moldy so think I'll replace that section as well. So the bad cut is no longer an issue. I'll replace with a new 4' wide sheet and another strip about 6" wide.

Also my circ saw skills suck. I kept starting , stopping and restarting my cuts.
Name:  1.jpg
Views: 98
Size:  48.8 KB
Name:  2.jpg
Views: 101
Size:  51.8 KB
Name:  3.jpg
Views: 99
Size:  43.0 KB
Name:  4.jpg
Views: 100
Size:  48.8 KB

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake

Last edited by jgleason; 03-26-2017 at 06:25 PM.
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 01:53 PM   #37
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 77
Also do you guys suggest putting caulking between the 1/8 expansion gaps? What kind of caulk?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 02:04 PM   #38
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 8,811
1. Cut out and replace any warped subfloor.

2. When cutting out a piece, you'll want to remove the width of a least two joist bays. In other words, if your joists are 16" on center, the minimum size of plywood to cut out is 32".

3. On all plywood seams that are perpendicular to the joists, you must have a tongue and groove joint, or installing blocking to join the edges of the plywood. All seams that are parallel to the joists must fall on a joist. If you must sister a joist to correct it or to catch a plywood edge, use deck screws to secure the sister to the joist.

4. On the lower layer of plywood, you'll want to glue it to the joists with construction adhesive and secure it with deck screws every 8". On the upper layer, you'll want to use deck screws that are no longer than the thickness of both layers of plywood, using the schedule in the article that Paul referenced. If you have to use longer screws, you'll want to intentionally avoid the joists.

5. If your cut is a little bit short of the wall, you can cut the sheet back two joist bays and replace that section.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 02:18 PM   #39
prodjsaig
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 156
ya the tongue and groove has a built in expansion youll want the 1/8 on the end seams. but like I said its only in the event of a flood that its really that important. also the caulking not many people do it its just insurance to avoid cracked grout any sealant it just will keep your thinset out of the joints that's all
__________________
Colby
prodjsaig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 03:26 PM   #40
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kman View Post
2. When cutting out a piece, you'll want to remove the width of a least two joist bays. In other words, if your joists are 16" on center, the minimum size of plywood to cut out is 32".

3. On all plywood seams that are perpendicular to the joists, you must have a tongue and groove joint, or installing blocking to join the edges of the plywood. All seams that are parallel to the joists must fall on a joist. If you must sister a joist to correct it or to catch a plywood edge, use deck screws to secure the sister ....
Great answers. Thank you.

My joists run at a 45 degree angle to the bathroom.

How would you deal with landing on joists in this scenario?

Name:  1.jpg
Views: 102
Size:  56.1 KB
Name:  2.jpg
Views: 101
Size:  49.9 KB

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake

Last edited by jgleason; 03-26-2017 at 06:23 PM.
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 03:49 PM   #41
rmckee84
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 2,079
Add 2x blocking where you need it, or cut the existing so it splits on top of a joist. All that subfloor is looking pretty rough, I know its hard to tell from where I'm at.
__________________
Jack of most trades, master of none...
Ryan McKee
McKee Construction & Custom Tile
rmckee84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 04:42 PM   #42
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmckee84 View Post
Add 2x blocking where you need it, or cut the existing so it splits on top of a joist. All that subfloor is looking pretty rough, I know its hard to tell from where I'm at.


I'm gonna replace it all. It might be from the 1920s. It's the bottom layer of subfloor.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 05:04 PM   #43
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 77
In addition to 2x boxes I could but 2x studs cut at a 45 degree angle around the perimeter of the room.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2017, 06:28 PM   #44
Houston Remodeler
Pondering retirement daily

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 27,350
Good plan. We prefer 3 inch decking screws
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2017, 07:30 AM   #45
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 77
Red guard

I'm going to apply redguard to the cement board on the floor and walls of my custom shower and separate tub.

Do I need to apply redguard throughout the bathroom where there is cement board? Toilet, vanity? Walls and floors or just floors?

Do you guys recommend two layers of redguard?

Trying to figure how much I need.

Thanks
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
HELP! The guy is tiling our bathroom now. Jimk75 Tile Forum/Advice Board 58 05-05-2014 02:12 AM
Tiling in bathroom jvandal Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 01-23-2010 09:12 AM
Tiling a Bathroom. Wow need HELP!! NotaPro Tile Forum/Advice Board 10 12-24-2008 10:22 AM
Bathroom Tiling StanJett Tile Forum/Advice Board 8 07-19-2008 12:31 PM
Tiling Bathroom jpgreen11 Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 02-24-2006 02:04 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:48 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2014 John Bridge & Associates, LLC