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Old 08-05-2017, 10:48 AM   #46
CaliGrown
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Trowel and error, start with a 1/4" by 3/8" for the 4" by 12" tiles and check coverage. Bump up sizes as needed for good coverage.
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Old 08-15-2017, 07:43 PM   #47
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Since I am tiling up to the top of the wall, is it ok to caulk the joint between the cement board at the top of the wall and the ceiling drywall for air sealing purposes instead of using fiberglass tape and thinset? Seems like unnecessary work to tape that since I am tiling all the way up.
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Old 08-15-2017, 10:02 PM   #48
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That'd be between you and your code compliance inspector, Jeff. Tile industry doesn't care.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-04-2017, 06:58 PM   #49
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Hello all,

I am working on my niche. I already installed 2x4s and 1/2" cement board for the top, bottom and sides. I think I read a post by cx in another thread where he suggested to glue 1/4" cement board to the drywall for the back of the niche.

1) Is it ok for me to do that here? There is 1/2" drywall on the other side of the wall and I just picked up some 1/4" cement board to use. I'd like to save that extra 1/4" of space if I can.

2) Are silicone and construction adhesives both ok to use to glue the cement board to the drywall? I think I have some left over silicone I'd like to use if it hasn't hardened up yet from when I was air sealing.

Thanks all!
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Old 09-04-2017, 08:30 PM   #50
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When you've seen CX recommend that you'll also not he usually says to install that back piece first so the jamb and sill pieces can help secure it.

Construction adhesive should work in your application. Or you could use thinset mortar. See my warranty information below.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-04-2017, 09:21 PM   #51
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I've already done the sides/top/bottom. Should I remove it and redo it?

Also just to confirm 1/4" is ok for the back?
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Old 09-04-2017, 09:50 PM   #52
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If those jamb and sill pieces are only held in place with mechanical fasteners at this point, yes, I'd remove them and install the back first.

We're out of the range of industry standards and manufacturer's recommendations here so you can use anything you want on that back wall. I think the quarter-inch CBU would be fine there. If somebody wants to drive a nail through the other wall they're gonna ruin your tile job no matter what thickness CBU you put there, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-04-2017, 10:12 PM   #53
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Thats the thing thats scary about shower niches. Its probably rare that it happens but I wonder how many niches have had nails driven through them.
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Old 09-04-2017, 10:38 PM   #54
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None of mine.



So far.
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Old 09-05-2017, 05:13 PM   #55
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I've seen two different ways to apply alkali resistant mesh and thinset to the joints of the cement board. One way is apply thinset to the joint, embed the mesh tape and then feather the thinset out. The other way is apply the mesh tape to all the joints and then apply thinset and feather out.

I was thinking putting the thinset first would be good because it goes in the nooks and crannies between the boards but applying the tape first would be so much easier.


Which is the correct/better way?
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Old 09-05-2017, 05:31 PM   #56
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Like this, "apply the mesh tape to all the joints and then apply thinset and feather out." But the other way will work too.
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Old 09-06-2017, 11:40 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefftile42
Thats the thing thats scary about shower niches. Its probably rare that it happens but I wonder how many niches have had nails driven through them.
09-04-2017 11:50 PM
Funny, I wondered the same thing when I realized one of my niches backs up to the laundry room and there were already two hollow wall anchors sticking into the space. I moved the two things that were anchored there and then got a 12"x12" piece of sheetmetal that I construction glued to the back of the kerdi board niche I was using. Didn't quite cover the whole thing (it's really 13x13) but most of it.

Then I'll just pray CX is right and of course no one would actually drive fasteners into it...

Bruce
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Old 09-08-2017, 06:17 AM   #58
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Regarding the caulk, I spoke to Laticrete and they recommended using Latasil 100% silicone color matched caulk for the changes of plane. They even recommended using it between the tile and drywall/trimwork because they thought it was so much better than an siliconized acrylic color matched caulk. They thought since I put the money towards the Spectralock Pro Premium that I would want the best caulk. I asked them what happens when I paint the ceiling or trimwork and they said try not to get the paint on it.

I think that it will be hard not to get some paint on the caulk when painting things even if I was using masking tape on the caulk. That and caulking silicone is a bear but having to use it everywhere will be even more of a bear.

I was thinking to use the Latisil 100% silicone for all the tile to tile surfaces including all around the shower and then use the siliconized acrylics between the tiles and drywall/trimwork. What would you guys do? Thanks!
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:44 AM   #59
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You want the silicone in any of your wet areas, Jeff. You can use the "siliconized" acrylics in the dry areas.

If you want to use silicone where you'll need to paint adjacent to it, I'd recommend you paint at least the first coat of color before applying the caulk. Much easier to cut in another coat of paint if need be.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-10-2017, 03:42 PM   #60
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Ok. Latasil only comes in one version, there is no sanded vs non sanded version. Do you know if the Laticrete Acrylic sanded or non sanded matches best with the Latasil? I am assuming non sanded but don't want to mess this up. Thanks!
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