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Old 07-28-2017, 11:21 PM   #31
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1. The folks at ColorRite will make you a 100 percent RTV silicone sealant in anybody's grout color in regular, satin, or sanded texture. You just tell'em what grout you're using and which finish you prefer.
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Old 07-29-2017, 05:00 PM   #32
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How does one seal around the shower handle and pipe holes when using redgard?
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Old 07-29-2017, 05:05 PM   #33
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The control valve escutcheon customarily has a rubber gasket on the back to seal against the tile surface. I usually seal around that escutcheon plate with silicone sealant after the shower has been tested.

The other penetrations, such as the shower head supply pipe, I do nothing at all. If you have lower penetrations in the wet area, you might consider using some silicone sealant depending upon where they are and what they are.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-01-2017, 03:07 PM   #34
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When I tile, should I finish one wall at a time or do you guys like to go around the room a few rows?

Also, how well do you guys finish the drywall? Three coats on the taped seams as per normal or do you get away with less coats because its being tiled?
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Old 08-01-2017, 04:54 PM   #35
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Other question: When I thinset the niche seams which I am doing custom with Durock, do I fold the alkali resistant mesh tape around the niche edges? A lot of videos I see people are using hydroban or some other liquid membrane and the fabric mesh but I don't see how to do it with thinset before redgarding.
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Old 08-02-2017, 03:27 PM   #36
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bump
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Old 08-02-2017, 04:31 PM   #37
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It's preference, when my uncle taught me we always did a whole wall at a time before moving on.

If the drywall is being tiled, just treat your seams the same as you would your cbu. I like to skim the drywall with thinset before ruling it.

As far as the niche, you can go that route with the mesh tape and thinset, then come back with your liquid waterproofing after it has set. Or use the liquid manufacturer's fabric tape and use it per their specs.
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Old 08-02-2017, 04:34 PM   #38
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If I'm going to use Durock, I would use the alkali resistant tape on all seams. Even the inside and outside corners. On corners, crease the tape to fit the corner.

Some installers feel more comfortable installing a row at a time around all the walls and working their way up. I usually start on the back wall and run it all the way up, then do the side walls. But, if I have a border say at eye level, I will usually run the back wall up to that point, then run the side walls up the same height. Then I will work on the border on all three walls. But, if the border tiles are thinner than the field tiles and I will need to fill out (mud out) behind the border, then I will measure the border and leave out a space for it. I would then tile the space above the border, then build out the border area and tile the border last. So you can see, there's no simple way for me, how I do it depends on the tiles I'm installing. There's no rules though, do it the way you feel the most comfortable.
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Old 08-02-2017, 11:53 PM   #39
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Are you supposed to have a small 1/8" space between Durock sheets? I saw some online videos where they spaced the sheets with a nail. Not sure why they do that if the gaps between the boards and changes of plane get thinset with mesh?

Also, after removing the Durock sticker there is left over adhesive. Kind of worries me thinking if Redgard will stick to the adhesive. Do you guys use alcohol or something to remove the adhesive?

Do you guys ever put sheet metal or some protection behind the shower niche in case someone were to put a nail or screw into the wall from the other side? I'm also concerned about gluing the cement board to the other side's drywall. How do you usually do it? I only have 3.25" of wood in this wall (2x3 w/ 3/4" furring strips) so I have to think of ways to keep this thin, could I use 1/4" backerboard for the back of the shower niche?
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:44 AM   #40
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Leaving a gap between the sheets the thickness of a nail is fine.

Redgard pretty much sticks to just about anything that is clean. You can clean the adhesive off if you want but I have never heard of anyone doing it. Sure wouldn't hurt anything.

Usually, by the time you get the backerboard and tile on the wall, you are back at 3 1/2 inches deep on the niche shelf. I would glue the backer onto the back side of the niche with PL Premium or liquid nails. I've never used metal behind it.
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Old 08-03-2017, 07:58 PM   #41
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For the shower niche I'd like to have a box for shampoo bottles and another smaller box for some bar soap. I am thinking a 12" would do for shampoo bottles and 6" for bar soap. Does this sound good or do you think a different size would be ideal? Do you guys usually put the smaller box on the bottom or top?
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:19 PM   #42
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Other question: my glass mosaic border is 8mm thick or 0.315 inches. My field tiles are 3/8" thick or .375". The difference is about 0.06" which is about a 1/16". Would it be ok to build up the thinset an extra 1/16 of an inch for the mosaics? I've done this before with full tiles but not mosaics and my concern is that the mosaics will not all be flat if I try to build it up since they are small pieces on a fiberglass matt. However it is only a 1/16" different which doesn't seem like a big difference.
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:43 AM   #43
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Those sizes are about right, when I do my niches I check with the client and size up their biggest soap bottle, for a bar soap shelf I usually go with about 4" and put it on the bottom.

You can make a gauge with a plastic drywall knife to make up the thickness difference for your mosaic. Or set your mosaic on a fabric band, and install it using your float and as much thinset as needed.
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Old 08-04-2017, 03:03 PM   #44
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I do like Chris and check with the homeowner about the box sizes. Some of the new bottles have the pump on the top so most of the boxes I make are around 14-15 inches tall and the soap box is 5 to 6 inches tall. I usually put the soap box on the bottom. No rules though, it can be made whatever size you want.
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Old 08-05-2017, 11:13 AM   #45
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What size/notch trowel would you suggest for 4x12 tiles? 1/2" square notch ok for 12x24?
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