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Old 07-15-2017, 02:31 PM   #16
jefftile42
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I tried some tiles and pinched, the other end didn't open for some. For some it opened like 1/32" on the other end. Would you go with 50% offset for that? I will try a larger sample of tiles.
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Old 07-15-2017, 06:46 PM   #17
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From the sound of it, I wouldnt have a problem doing 50%.
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:07 PM   #18
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How can I tell the difference in size between the 12x24 tiles? do I just put them against a wall or something and measure the difference?
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Old 07-21-2017, 05:34 PM   #19
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When tiling all of the bathroom walls including the tub and other walls up to the ceiling, where do you guys start tiling? I could start at the top of my tub so I don't have any cuts there but then when I move to the other walls, I would have to tile upwards towards the ceiling and downwards towards the floor. Do you guys start at the tub or near the floor or somewhere else? I am going to try to use a staggered 1/2" offset brick pattern with 4"x12" or possibly a 1/3" offset (need to check some more tiles to see how flat they are).
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Old 07-21-2017, 05:49 PM   #20
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Are you asking where to start setting your tiles or how to begin your tile layout, Jeff?
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Old 07-22-2017, 11:15 AM   #21
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I guess I am asking both. I would like to know how best to plan the layout when 4 walls and a tub are involved and also where to start setting the tile.
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Old 07-22-2017, 02:54 PM   #22
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If you're going to start the layout at the top of the tub, check the tub for level. They are nearly always out of level. Find the low end of the tub and start there, then cut the tiles to fit the rest of the tub.
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Old 07-22-2017, 03:20 PM   #23
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first measure from the top of tub to the ceiling (if you plan to tile all the way up) and see if you won't have small sliver of the tile bellow ceiling - it doesn't look good.
Also with small tiles I always try to line up top and bottom of niche with grout lines. Cuts on sides should be reasonable size also.
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Old 07-23-2017, 04:26 PM   #24
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The tub deck is level on all 3 sides. Do you guys generally start at the tub deck and just wrap around the room? I think it will be easy to determine if slivers will be at the top or bottom of the room but hard to determine if there will be slivers on the end of one of the other walls, especially if I end up having to do a 1/3 offset (hopefully I can do 1/2 offset).

Also a question on grab bars. I want to install some blocking for grab bars in case we need them in the future. The tub has 3 walls and I plan to install a shower door. I have seen some documents that show a vertical bar near the shower entrance and then a few horizontal bars close to the tub deck. The only issue is I don't really see any hard information on bar lengths and distances between the tub deck and the bar. How do you guys usually determine blocking placement for grab bars?
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:34 PM   #25
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Another question - I am going to apply Redgard to Durock. I've read that 4:1 ratio of water to Redgard can be used as a primer for drywall and is not required for cement board. However, would it be a good practice to prime the Durock anyway?
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Old 07-25-2017, 09:53 PM   #26
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Jeff, you need a moisture barrier when using a cement board. Either poly or felt paper behind it or a sheet membrane or paint on membrane on the shower side. The Redgard with water as a primer works fine. I wouldn't use sheetrock with Redgard in a shower.

You won't find much info on grab bars because you simply place them where you want. I like using 2x8 or 2x10 blocks between the studs where I might want a bar. Sometimes I'll even take a picture of the block locations so I can look back at it when installing the bars.
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Old 07-27-2017, 03:34 PM   #27
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Davy I am using Durock in the tub area and drywall outside of the tub area. What I meant was, is it a good practice to primer the Durock with redgard even though it is not required? I am going to hit all of the drywall with redgard anyway because I have more redgard than I need for the tub area.

I have a question about Schluter edge profiles. Do you guys use aluminum with brushed nickel coating for shower niches or do you get the stainless steel version? The stainless steel version is much more expensive but I will spend the money if the aluminum one will get beat up looking later on.
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Old 07-27-2017, 05:32 PM   #28
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Hi Jeff, sorry, I misunderstood. Before using the Redgard on the drywall, make sure you have enough thickness on the Durock. Credit card thickness is about what you need. If you can see thru the Redgard and read the print on the Durock, it's usually too thin.

I'll let someone else comment on the Schluter edging, I hardly ever use it.
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Old 07-28-2017, 09:57 PM   #29
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1) Is Laticrete siliconized acrylic color matched caulk ok to use for changes of plane in the shower? If not, what brand should I use?

2) I bought Spectralock Pro Premium grout. Do I need to get a sanded caulk or unsanded caulk to best match this grout?

3) Schluter says to grout right up to the Rondec. The Rondec for the niche is a change of plane. Is it ok to grout right up to it?
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Old 07-28-2017, 10:15 PM   #30
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Hi Jeff.
1. A lot of installers use 100% silicone but I would use the Laticrete so I could get the same color as the grout. Maybe someone knows where 100% silicone can be bought that matches Laticrete colors, that would be better.

2. I'd go sanded.

3. I'd use grout on the outside corners like that.
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