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Old 07-08-2017, 12:33 PM   #61
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Are you trying to make a channel for the glass to set into?

Why not surface mount the glass?
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:24 PM   #62
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Surface mount glass

I think it would be ideal to surface mount the glass ... if it can be done with no frame or as little framing as possible. Do you mean using some type of silicone adhesive where the glass meets the tile on the top of the perimeter of the pan? Could it also be done this way where the glass meets the tiled wall?

I'm sure you caught this a few posts back, but just in case, I'm now leaning towards doing a curbless shower ... not sure if that makes any difference in going the surface mounting route.
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Old 07-11-2017, 12:45 AM   #63
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It'll have to have some type of channel to hold it off the floor, but the channel can be secured with silicone in most cases.

On the walls, it could be limited to a couple of short tracks, just a couple of inches each, and they would each have a stud that inserts into the wall.
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:31 AM   #64
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Question Durock board install

Had to halt shower install to take care of some plumbing issues.

Again, for reference, I'll be waterproofing with Durock or Schluter membrane.

I'm ready for the Durock and shower mud pan.

1. I was thinking of putting up the Durock drawing the horizontal line for the height of the mud pan and then install the mud pan ... with the Durock behind the mud. Is this acceptable?

OR

2. Should I install the mud pan first and then, after it's cured, install the Durock with the bottom edge on top of the mud pan?

3. In either case do I need to leave a gap between the bottom edge of the Durock and the cement or mud pan?

4. If so, how wide a gap?

5. Is there any point to caulk between the pan and the Durock?

6. Lastly, I've read to leave 1/8" gaps between the sheets of Durock ... is this correct in a membrane waterproofing scenario?
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Old 07-30-2017, 12:04 PM   #65
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1. Yes.

2. No.

3. No.

5. No.

6. Unless you read it on the USG website it's not correct. You'll do yourself a large favor if you make a habit of reading the manufacturer's installation instructions for all the products you use in your projects.

Yes, real men actually read instructions before doing it wrong the first time.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-30-2017, 12:12 PM   #66
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I always read the destructions.

Even though you are going to install Kerdi over the Durock, I'd still install the Durock first and then the mud against it.
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Old 07-30-2017, 12:49 PM   #67
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Thanks for the prompt responses

Indeed. When all else fails, read the instructions ... which in Durock's case are quite good. Of course with some manufacturer's I call them "Destructions".

Yes ... I don't see anything in Durock's instructions about leaving a small gap between the sheets ... just not to force them together TOO tightly.

Durock instructions indicates mesh joint tape ... but for membrane systems:

1. Do I remember correctly that it's acceptable to fill the voids between the sheets with the same thinset I use to install the membrane ... as I'm installing the membrane?

2. Or would this be a done prior to and allowed to dry before applying the thinset for membrane installation?
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:34 PM   #68
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1. Yes.

2. No.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:34 PM   #69
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#1 would be correct. The membrane takes the place of the mesh tape, and is actually a little stronger.
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Old 07-30-2017, 08:00 PM   #70
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Question Mortars? (not worried about warranty)

It seems the most recommended mortars are harder to find and of course everyone has their own preferences. I had purchased some Kerabond T, but after reading numerous threads (perhaps too many), I'm starting to lean towards Versabond for ease of use.

For membrane on durock and 12" x 24" tile on membrane, which of the following two readily available mortars would be easier to work with and effective ... Versabond or Kerabond T ?

Any others that would be better?

Again, not concerned about warranty ... just want one that's effective and fairly easy to work with for a novice.
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Old 07-30-2017, 08:12 PM   #71
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Dan,

Either will work the same for you. Unless you've handled hunnerts of bags under many atmospheric conditions, you'll not be able to discern any difference.

Tile on !
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Old 08-02-2017, 10:26 PM   #72
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Question Durock board install

1. Am I doing something wrong when screwing on the Durock sheet edges (w/ the recommended screws) to the center of the framed wall stud where more often than not the edge crumbles a bit? It doesn't crumble totally ... but noticeably. I'm wondering if I should have run parallel studs attached to the framed studs so I could screw each meeting sheet about 1" from the edge to avoid the crumbling.

A better way of doing this is probably right in front of my nose, but I'm not seeing it. Perhaps I didn't explain the issue well at all.

2. In general, in a thinset and membrane application over the Durock, the screw heads must be "buried" in the Durock, correct?
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Old 08-02-2017, 10:34 PM   #73
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In places like that, it's good to add a stud to the side of the existing stud. It doesn't have to be a full stud, just short pieces will work so you'll have something to nail/screw to.

Yes, you want the screws flush or just under the surface of the CBU.
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:23 PM   #74
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Thumbs up Thanks

Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:25 PM   #75
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Question Niche

I bought some of the thinner durock for the niche. The sides, top and bottom ... no problem. On the back (which is an outside wall) there just some type of radiant barrier panel or other with the shiny aluminum foil (I guess) side facing towards the inside. How do I place the durock cut out on that back wall? Adhere it with some adhesive that adheres to the shiny foil and the durock or? I could screw in some type of support in the back for the durock, but this would make the shallow niche even shallower ... not much depth with the 2 x 4 studs.

Any ideas?
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