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Old 06-26-2017, 02:25 PM   #31
DanWrghtn
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Thumbs up Perfect.

Perfect. Thanks CX.
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Old 06-26-2017, 02:38 PM   #32
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Quick question?

As the area of a niche is small and so would be the corners, is there any reason it wouldn't work to cut some pieces of Kerdi-band to do form these corners? It's thinner material.
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Old 06-26-2017, 04:32 PM   #33
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I would first recommend you look in our Liberry under Kerdi Niche Template to find a nice pattern that will allow your to waterproof your entire niche with a single piece of membrane.

If you were to switch to the USG Durock Shower System membrane, you would find that it is thinner than Kerdi Band and still less vapor permeable. An easier membrane to work with and the overlaps create less problem for tile setting.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 06-26-2017, 08:49 PM   #34
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Membranes

Thanks. I'll definitely check the liberry. Given your response, I'd would have steered towards the Durock system membrane, but I've already purchased the Kerdi membrane and Kerdi band. I guess I could look into returning them and switching to the Durock system membrane. You mention it being an easier membrane to work with ... does it install much the same way ... with unmodified thinset? Will it work with the Kerdi curbs I've already cut and can't return?
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:26 PM   #35
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Yes, the membrane is installed the same way you'd install Kerdi, it's just a better product. Thinner and easier to handle in my opinion.

No reason not to use it with the foam curbs you have if those curbs are actually what you want.
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:21 PM   #36
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Except that you can use modified thinset with the Durock membrane.
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:20 PM   #37
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Durock vs Kerdi membrane

I'm thinking of returning what I can of the Kerdi (purchased via Amazon) and going with the Durock system. I definitely like that it's thinner and easier to work with. One can also order a CUSTOM shower pan ... will cost, but save me from doing the mud work which I've never done before.

Regarding the thinset ... I was checking out the website videos and I've put in a request for clarification but their installation videos SEEM to indicate the use of unmodified for membrane installation but then either for tile installation. That in itself would be an advantage over Kerdi. If the membrane could also be installed using modified, that would be another plus. Again, I've asked them for confirmation on these two points.
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:31 PM   #38
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Dan, I would recommend you make a mud floor for your shower that fits the footprint and drain location exactly. And saves you a whole gaggle of money. Mud floors are not difficult, the materials are dirt cheap, and the labor's free. You can make a practice floor and throw away the materials dozens of times for the cost of one of those foam trays.

You can use modified thinset mortar with either of those materials. The only thing that changes at all is the manufacturer's warranty, which is of no value to you at all. If you have a waterproofing problem with either membrane, it will be an installer error.

I prefer the Durock Shower System membrane.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:02 AM   #39
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Question Drain bonding flange over concrete floor

I'm sure you're right ... always the installers fault (in my case it may very well be).

1. Just to be sure ... I think you or someone else mentioned that the felt and metal lather is not necessary over a concrete floor, correct?

2. The Durock instructional video is quite good but it doesn't indicate the height to set the drain bonding flange at ... between the concrete floor and the bonding flange (with the mud and skim thinset coat under it). With Kerdi it's 1". Is it the same with the Durock system?

3. They say to apply a skin coat of thinset under the bonding flange when pressing into the mortar (consistency of block mortar). It appears in the video that this is all done before the mud cures, correct?

4 and lastly ... Is the "consistency of block mortar" under the bonding flange much like in the Kerdi video where it's just slightly wetter than the rest of the mud?
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:12 AM   #40
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Question Compatability with certain Kerdi items

Real quick. I'll be returning (via Amazon) as much of the Kerdi items as I can. They deduct the return shipping charges so it's not worth it to return the less expensive items such as the Kerdi-fix tube, a couple Kerdi corners ... are these compatible or can they be used somewhere in conjunction with the Durock system ... even though the material is a little thicker ... perhaps in less critical areas such as the outside of a curb near a wall or top inside corner of a niche (cutting to fit)?
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:23 PM   #41
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1. Correct. You wanna use a slurry of thinset mortar or pure Portland cement to bond your mud to the concrete.

2. One inch would be fine. I usually set mine to at least 3/4-inch above the concrete.

3. Yes.

4. Not familiar with the videos, but I just add a little extra water and a handfull of dry thinset mortar to a gallon can of deck mud to shove under the drain after it is glued to the riser pipe. The edge of a wood float is helpful in packing the mud under the drain flange.

The manufacturers will not tell you the products are compatible, but they are, Dan. See my warranty information below.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:43 PM   #42
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Question Warranty and corner cracks with membrane

Thanks CX.

Regarding the warranty, I agree ... I'll do the best I can but won't worry about whether I'll be covered or not. If problems arise, most likely I wouldn't be even if I did everything by the book.

I'm nearing the end of my doubts and questions ... (sure ... famous last words).

I'm still worried a bit about the shower corners. I know the Kerdi or Durock membranes don't isolate, but in corners do they "give" a bit? If I see a slight crack in the grout ... say 1/16 or less, can I be at ease knowing that behind the outside crack, the Kerdi or Durock membrane is still intact and waterproof? Even if I put a quality 100% silicone in the corners ... when there is a bit of movement the silicone will stretch, but what will the membrane do behind the silicone. After cured with the thinset, does it have any "give" at all or can it crack/rip/tear?

I was thinking of notching out and putting some hefty steel corner braces in the 2x4s to hold the corners together in the shower. I know the cracks might move elsewhere as something has to give, but at least they would be outside the wet area ... easier to deal with. The DFW area is notorious for either foundation and/or temperature related movement.
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Old 07-02-2017, 07:16 AM   #43
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It'd be helpful if you'd add that geographic location to your User Profile so it would remain in permanent view to help in answering some types of questions, Dan.

The membrane will be fine in your shower corners so long as your framing meets contemporary standards. Even better if you give it a bit of a wedgie in those corners when applying the membrane, but it'll be OK if it's just properly applied.

I'm familiar with the soil issues in your area and I'd not be concerned at all in using either of those sheet-type direct bonded waterproofing membranes in a residential shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:10 AM   #44
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"wedgie"

"Wedgie" ... I think I know what you mean ... press in a slight extra membrane, say 1/8", into the corner to give it some slack? Is that the, most certainly patented, "wedgie" technique?
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:54 AM   #45
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You've got it. No patent as yet, so feel free to use it.

Doesn't even take as much as you're envisioning, but do that if you've installed your wallboard with a gap in the corners as you should have. When we talk about movement in ceramic tile installations we're not talking about the materials packing their little tile bags and moving across town. Just a little accommodation in those corners is enough.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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