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Old 07-03-2017, 10:44 AM   #31
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72 house is the standard, Jeff, but 24 hours is usually accepted by most code compliance jurisdictions in my experience. That would be the ones who even know about pre-slopes and flood tests, of course.

Good to put a straight sided vessel filled with water beside the shower to help gauge evaporation on the longer tests.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:58 PM   #32
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Thanks. About 18 hours for the drain and 6 for the corners now and it hasn't changed at all, no little bubbles or anything.

Even 24 hours seems like an awful long time for a shower that'll be used 2-3 times a day. This is likely the most water exposure and pressure it'll ever see, but I guess that's the point?
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:33 PM   #33
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Here are a couple pictures of the current status:
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Obviously I haven't put up the building panels up to the ceiling. I wanted to leave the extended section of shower head pipe exposed so I could double check it for leaks when I filled the base up.

One sorta non standard thing I did was trim down the curb. Wedi makes a regular curb that's about 5" tall and 4.5" wide. Seems pretty huge. They also make a "lean" model that's only 3.5" tall and 2" wide, however that's not wide enough for a typical double sliding door - the Kohler door I have requires a 3" wide curb. So I emailed Wedi (Bastian Lohmann) who advised that it could be cut down in pretty much any direction, so long as you make sure the surfaces to be tiled all had the cement coating remaining. He advised to use the sealant to put a strip of the building panel over a cut section. Instead (with his blessing) I cut the exterior face of the curb off at 1/2" thickness, then cut away a 2" section, then reattached the face with the sealant resulting in a 3" thickness. I also took 1" off the bottom and re-cut the notch to fit the base. Now it's 4" tall and 3" wide, allowing me to keep the base symmetric about the drain and the exterior face of the curb to align with the adjacent walls.
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:03 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff
Even 24 hours seems like an awful long time for a shower that'll be used 2-3 times a day. This is likely the most water exposure and pressure it'll ever see, but I guess that's the point?
Well, when you consider that your shower will see at least a hundred times more water than your roof, and that the absolute minimum lifespan of a correctly built shower should be thirty years, I think the water tightness of your shower receptor is pretty important, Jeff.

But the testing is entirely up to you and your code compliance official.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-04-2017, 09:10 AM   #35
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Code compliance official eh? Same guys who approved the tile-on-drywall shower I'm replacing? I guess that was the code's fault not the guy's.

36 hours on the drain and 24 on the rest and still no changes. The cat has been drinking out of it but not enough to affect the level
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Old 07-04-2017, 10:22 AM   #36
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Once upon a time it was accepted practice to tile directly to MR Board in wet areas and the compliance officials would look only to see that there was "green board" in all such places and that it had enough nails in it.

Keep in mind that building code is the absolute minimum requirement in your construction, but also the only requirement enforceable by law. Doesn't mean it's done correctly or uniformly or "fairly" or reasonably, just means you must meet that standard or potentially suffer the consequences later.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-04-2017, 10:00 PM   #37
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Copy that CX. I'm familiar with regulatory minimums in my profession; this is the first time in my personal life when something seemed so obviously screwed up yet was apparently up to snuff officially speaking, at least at the time.

Anyhow I pulled the plug on the flood test at 30 hours (42 for the drain) as I'm not going to be around for the next week. The pan drained quickly as expected and was bone dry after I came home from a few hours away.

The Wedi system doesn't get a ton of discussion on this site but I've been pretty happy with it, doubly now that it seems to be good to go after the flood test. As a DIYer I think it provides many advantages for certain situations.

Now I just need the wife to settle on the tiles and I can get on with the rest of the job
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:18 PM   #38
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A month since my last post, not much progress aside from getting the rest of the walls put up. I did run the shower for about an hour, spraying on the middle wall, just as another test which went fine. Still haven't gotten my wife to the tile store to pick the tile so in the meantime I'm thinking about my corner shelves.

I'm going to build 3 triangular shelves out of the leftover Wedi board. Wedi advises to construct them with 2 layers of the 1/2" board, using their sealant to glue them together and to secure the shelf to the walls. Easy enough. A few questions:

- It's a 4x3 shower. I'm thinking of two shelves in the corner opposite the showerhead and one in the corner with the showerhead. The lower one opposite would be about 2'-3' off the floor and fairly large, 12" by 9" or so. Then another would be ~2' above that and a bit smaller, 10" by 8" or so. The one in the showerhead corner would be about 5' up and smaller, maybe 8" by 6".
Does that sound like a reasonable arrangement and sizes? I thought making them in roughly the same ratio as the shower itself would be a nice touch vs. making both sides the same length.

- is it necessary to slope the shelves themselves or maybe just the tile, to promote drainage? If so, any tips on a good way to do so? I thought of a couple:
- trim the face that'll be against the wall slightly so that the entire shelf sits at a slight angle.
- put in a thin shim made of a slice of the wedi foam in between the upper and lower halves of the shelf
- similarly, put in a thin shim on the top of the constructed shelf, which would have the effect of just sloping the tile rather than the shelf itself.

Thanks,
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:38 PM   #39
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Jeff, it's the waterproofing layer of any horizontal surface in a wet area that must be sloped to drain, not just the decorative tile covering.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:12 AM   #40
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I thought that was the case. So that narrows it down to these two options:
- trim the face that'll be against the wall slightly so that the entire shelf sits at a slight angle.
- put in a thin shim made of a slice of the wedi foam in between the upper and lower halves of the shelf
Or any other ideas?

Assuming it's the usual 1/4" per foot slope I'd be looking at something like a 1/8" shim along the two sides which shouldn't be very noticeable.
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Old 08-28-2017, 09:22 AM   #41
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Progress remains slooooooow (still haven't gotten my wife to the store to pick the tile) but I'm working on other small details in the time being. I've made up 3 shelves with the wedi board, using a tiny piece of the board as a shim in the inside corner to provide for the slope.

Here are pictures of the corners between the shower and the adjacent walls. I'm planning to wrap the tile around the corners. Up to about 2' above the floor the tile will extend out, above that and up to the ceiling it'll just be a 2-3" strip running along the corner up to the ceiling. It's hard to tell in the photos, but the ends of the wedi panels are lined up with the adjacent drywall.

My question is, do I need to do anything to the joints/spaces on those adjacent walls? Part of me thinks I can just fill those gaps with thinset when I'm putting the tiles up, another that I should probably put in some sort of filler prior to then.
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:18 AM   #42
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Tape and float with mesh tape. Thinset on the wet side, drywall compound on the dry side (if painted)
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:19 AM   #43
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No gaps on the wet side as the wedi panels extend to the corner. 'll be tiling around these corners, no paint. So on the drywall side it sounds like regular fiber mesh tape with joint compound should do the trick.
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Old 08-29-2017, 10:47 AM   #44
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or thinset, if you want to not use a second material
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Old 09-01-2017, 04:56 PM   #45
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Alright finally got the boss to the store to pick out the tile. She narrowed it down to a couple styles each for the main tile and accents and now it's up to me to settle on the pattern and finalize the plan. A question:

- the 2x2" square mosaics for the floor are 1/4" thick. A linear mosaic I think might look nice as a border accent for the floor (Marazzi Crystal Stone II) is listed as "compatible" on the product info but the sample measured 3/8" thick. Any ideas or thoughts about how to install these different thickness tiles and keep the surface even? How about using a 1/4" notched trowel for the 2x2" and then say a 3/16" v-notch for the strip?
- how much of a gap is typically left around the perimeter of the floor tiles? The wall tiles are 5/16" so it would seem that that or narrower would be OK?

Thanks,
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