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Old 06-17-2017, 07:20 AM   #16
greenjp
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I've never sweated copper either. Done plenty of soldering but not sure if there's any crossover of skills there. The PEX approach seemed easy and fast, about $15 for the parts required. I'll look at the copper approach more carefully, might as well pick up another skill.

What's a drop el? Is that the fitting at the top of the pipe that the shower head pipe is attached to? The one that's screwed into the frame?

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Old 06-17-2017, 08:43 AM   #17
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Yes, I believe that's what they are talking about. I've also heard them called a drop eared 90. It has the ears with holes.
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Old 06-17-2017, 09:04 AM   #18
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Yeah, I meant drop ear elbow, Jeff. Sorry for the shorthand.

If you axe your plumber for a sweat drop el he'll give you the right thing, though.
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Old 06-17-2017, 02:05 PM   #19
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So as luck would have it a family friend who's visiting the area for a while has done this sort of thing plenty of times and has offered to assist. We'll do it next weekend.

His thought was along what Gozo Jeff suggested, inserting another section of pipe with two couplings. CX, you noted that you wouldn't "want" any couplings back there - any particular reason?

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Old 06-17-2017, 02:49 PM   #20
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Didn't say that, Jeff, said I wouldn't want unions in there, which is what Gozo recommended.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:33 PM   #21
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Couplings, unions, I am clueless

My friend is talking about using things like this along with an additional length of 1/2" pipe:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Co...HD12/204620228

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Old 06-17-2017, 04:38 PM   #22
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Yup, that's what I meant; coupling, not a union.
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Old 06-17-2017, 07:17 PM   #23
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For the record, to understand why some of use were concerned, these are unions:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Co...HD12/204620129

To my knowledge, the plumbing code does not allow them to be used in concealed locations. But for something like a water heater, instead of using flexible connectors, you could use a union and hard pipe the connection. [Although if you do, I understand that cast, ground unions are likely to work better than the wrought unions shown.]

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 07-01-2017, 11:29 AM   #24
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Howdy folks,
Busy day today. I finally got the framing all plumbed and squared, raised the showerhead 4", and leveled out the floor a bit with feather finish. Just got done installing the base. Have a question about the mortar mix:
I used Mapei Ultraflex 2. I'd emailed them and asked what the ratios were for mixing and was told 4 to 1. Per the 50 lb bag, half of it would safely make enough to do both the floor and bottom of the base with the Wedi-recommended 1/4x1/4 notch trowel. So I mixed up about half the bag (measuring by the quart), and using half the water recommended for the full back did come out to be about 4:1.
What surprised me was how thick it was. The drill had a heck of a time maintaining speed but I kept at it and mixed per the directions on the bag. 8 minutes, 10 minute rest, then 2 more minutes. It got to a nice consistent texture but it was very thick. It took a lot more elbow grease to spread it around that I was expecting having watched several videos of folks doing it. I've heard that it'll be like peanut butter, this was thicker than that.
My question is, is that typical? I know you're not supposed to add more water after the mix, so I just used it as it was. I was able to get good coverage on both surfaces and it seems nice and stable now, but for instance I didn't see any ooze out from the perimeter, which I have seen in some videos.
I stomped the base down good and have a couple 50 lb sand bags on it now. Wedi says you can start putting the wall panels up in 30 minutes but I'm going to take a rest and give it a bit longer.
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Old 07-01-2017, 01:10 PM   #25
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Sounds like it may have been a little on the thick side. Many of us measure, and within the same group many of us with mix to a desired consistency. Different applications call for for slightly different amounts of water. Many products have a range of water you can mix with and as long as you fall within that range you're fine.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:10 AM   #26
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Jeff,

I've also watched countless videos and my question is "which brand of peanut butter?" Some are runnier than others. Personally, I always liked the Smuckers where the oil rises to the top and has to be mixed back in

As a fellow DIYer (and Jeff) I just want to chime in that the mfg instructions generally seem to result in a product being dry and stiff to me.
(Note - I've only used several different thinsets and grout, and none of them were Mapei except the Flexcolor grout, which is a premix and a completely different animal)

Laticrete support told me it was fine to add a little extra water to their grout.

I always carefully measure the weight of the thinset on a scale (typically 10-15 lbs), and of course the fluid ounces of water. I'm generally comfortable with adding ~10% extra water.
I've used mostly Custom Flexbond which mfg says its 3.2 fl oz per pound. I ended up with ~3.7 oz/ lb, to get it where it has enough "flow" and sheen (the surface is a little shiney). Ridges still hold their shape. Again, I don't know your mapei thinset.

But be patient and careful if you try this - the last few drops make a BIG difference, you need to go in smaller increments (and write down how much added for next time). If you go too far it can weaken the product.

My theory (which is completely a product of my imagination) is that, assuming you are mixing the whole bag, you can add extra water if its too stiff, but you can't add more powder if its too runny (unless you have another bag) So they are on the conservative (stingy) side.

Rightly so, i wouldn't expect any pro's to specifically endorse violating the instructions like this. so take this anectdotal observation with a grain of salt. but I don't think your observations are off base
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:42 PM   #27
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Thanks guys. In a bit here I'll be mixing up a very small batch to install the curb and the sealing ring around the shower valve. Definitely going to go for a less viscous consistency this time which will help with getting the curb set just right.

At what point in the mixing product is it still OK to add some water?

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Old 07-02-2017, 01:07 PM   #28
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If you are using a product that has to slake you can add water until that point. Once you let it slake and mix again do not add anymore. Be sure to follow mixing time and speed reccomendations. Doing so will give you optimal working time and performance from your product.
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Old 07-02-2017, 05:49 PM   #29
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Thanks, that will be good to know in the future.

For installing the curb and valve sealing ring I mixed up about a small batch at 3.6:1, this was definitely more what I was expecting. It spread easily, adhered to surfaces nicely, and yet held it's form well enough that it was easy to work with.

I'm doing the flood test tomorrow morning, the moment of truth. I've already checked the drain just by filling the pan a bit and it seemed fine for a good hour. I'm not entirely sure what this Wedi sealant is, it is a very strong adhesive but seems to maintain a bit of flexibility when cured. The panels and curb seem very secure.

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Old 07-03-2017, 07:53 AM   #30
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Ok, I had enough water in the pan overnight to cover the drain but not up to the walls or curb, no signs of a leak whatsoever. So I've now filled the whole thing up a few more inches, not quite to the top of the curb but close. How long should I leave it? I've read anything from an hour to 72? Thanks,
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