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Old 05-29-2017, 11:09 AM   #16
cx
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Not sure what you meant to link at Homer's, but the page doesn't open to a product for me.

Yes, those are Kerdi pre-made corners.

You could do that, but I'd still recommend a level perimeter.

Your slope needs to be a minimum of 1/4" per horizontal foot measured from the drain to the farthest corner of the shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-29-2017, 12:37 PM   #17
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This is what I was trying to link to:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pavestone...2099/100619496

Have a question regarding the kerdi/Durock systems. The whole marketing thing with those systems is they are completely waterproof. I get that part, but at the end of the day isn't water still getting through the tile and grout and hitting that waterproof membrane underneath it? If the bonding flange drains don't have weep holes like a conventional clamping ring, how does the water get out once it hits that kerdi membrane? Doesn't it just sit there on top of the membrane and stagnate?


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Old 05-29-2017, 01:11 PM   #18
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Your pan is sloped a minimum of 1/4" per foot, so once it gets through to the membrane it slowly makes its way to the drain. No need for weep holes with a surface applied waterproofing since the water never makes it past the membrane. Any water that doesn't evaporate simply goes to the drain.
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:59 PM   #19
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That makes sense except I don't really understand how a product like the kerdi drain allows water underneath the tile to make it into the drain? Isn't water only able to make it into the drain from the top grate in the shower? Or does it have some sort of weep hole type entry point that allows water that gets caught by the kerdi membrane to get into the drain underneath the tile?


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Old 05-29-2017, 02:08 PM   #20
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I've explained it the best I can, I would suggest getting on one of the various manufacturers websites and watch the videos and look at the illustrations. The membrane goes over the top of the bonding flange, water drains on top of the membrane making its way to the drain body. The design of the collar that the drain grate sits in allows water that is under the tile to drain into the drain body.
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Old 05-29-2017, 02:42 PM   #21
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Here's my explanation:

Grout, thinset mortar, and tile are all somewhat porous. Bulk water on the floor will flow on the surface of the tile/thinset through the grate into the drain. Beneath the thinset is the non-permeable kerdi membrane, lapped on top of the Kerdi drain plastic collar. Water than penetrates the grout or tile will slowly move downward through the thinset to hit the Kerdi and flow downhill through the thinset below the tile, until it flows under the grate and reaches the vertical drain cavity.

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Old 05-29-2017, 03:58 PM   #22
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Thanks I think I get it now. I didn't realize that there was any entry point for water into the drain beneath the top grate.

Another question, what thickness does the mud bed need to be at the drain?


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Old 05-30-2017, 03:13 PM   #23
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Over a slab there are products that can go to nearly a feathered edge.
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Old 06-07-2017, 04:27 PM   #24
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If I was using concrete pavers to build the curb, what is the process for that?

Just line up the pavers and then build it using sand topping mix? How do I cut a paver down to size if I need to for building the curb? Just looking for more detailed building instructions if I use concrete pavers instead of 2x4s?


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Old 06-07-2017, 04:30 PM   #25
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Not sure just what you might be calling concrete pavers, Dave, but for a curb you'd simply set whatever CMUs you want to use, bonding with thinset mortar or brick mortar. No Sand Topping Mix would be involved.

You can cut the pieces with a brick chisel or on a wet saw if you want more accuracy.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:35 PM   #26
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This is what I meant by concrete paver:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pavestone...2099/100619496

I'm not attached to those but a previous poster mentioned something about them. Really I'm just looking for recommendations on how to build the curb within the kerdi system?

I've seen that some people frown upon using wood as it is subject to negative effects from moisture coming up through slab, etc. So just wondering what exactly is best to use if wood is not ideal? And exactly how do I build it? Any step by step instructions or video someone could link me to?

Thanks!!


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Old 06-12-2017, 09:26 PM   #27
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Those would work, Dave. Get some brick mortar to set them.

I typically set forms at the proper height and pour some fast-setting concrete, bonding it to the slab with thinset mortar. It's smooth and ready for waterproofing in a few hours.

You can also opt for a foam curb, which just needs to be cut to size and bonded to the slab with thinset. Costs a few more dollars, though, and you have to shave the top edge off with a table saw so it's sloped.

There's more than one way to skin a cat.
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Old 06-24-2017, 07:40 AM   #28
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I think that makes sense. Just a few questions:

(1) What are you referring to when you say you set forms and then pour concrete? Not sure I understand how to do that. Would it be using something like this: Bundle 2 PACK: Shower Curb - Kirb-Perfect - 30 Inches Per Curb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM4PT6W..._qOMtzbZ81N133

(2) again I've heard people frown on using wood because of moisture coming up through the slab and warping the wood. But wouldn't this be the case with all the wood framing that is sitting on the slab all over my house? How is it any different setting a 2x4 on the slab to build the shower curb than the 2x4 sitting on the slab at the bottom of the wall framing?


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Old 06-24-2017, 08:15 AM   #29
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I set forms just like I would for pouring a sidewalk or driveway, or anything else. The outside one sits 1/16 - 1/8" higher than the inside form, to shed water. Screw them to the adjacent walls to hold them in place.

I put a little bit of runny thinset on the floor to bond the concrete to the slab, then pour concrete and mash it down to get all the air out.

The reason wood curbs are frowned upon is because once they are waterproofed on the sides and top, the moisture coming from underneath has nowhere to escape. It's different than a wall that has no waterproofing over the lumber.
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Old 06-24-2017, 08:21 AM   #30
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What do you use to set the form? Do you use wood and then take it off once the concrete sets?

Would it work basically the same way to use something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM4PT6W..._qOMtzbZ81N133

Also wondering, its fine to use wood to block in the bottom 4-6 inches of the shower walls for when I pour the mortar bed right? I was just planning on using 2x4 or 2x6 and toe-nailing them in between the studs so I have a box around the shower base to be able to pour and shape the mortar bed.


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