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Old 08-25-2017, 10:51 PM   #46
workhurts
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Almost forgot. If I end up having to do 2 slopes. One 7' slope and another 6" slope on either side of the drain. Is there a reason to slope the drain also along the same plane as the 6" slope? Or do you keep the drain flat no matter what.

Pic of some progress ....
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Old 08-25-2017, 11:30 PM   #47
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Clearly I've got getting this bathroom done on my mind.

Holy color variation.

Anyone think these tiles are too dark? Was going to stagger them on the floor left to right and line up the grout lines on go vertical on two of the shower walls. Do the back wall (where the yet to be bench will go) in a glass mosaic of some kind.
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Old 08-25-2017, 11:58 PM   #48
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Scratch that. Not going with that tile or pattern. Hate it. Getting rectified and not staggering them. Probably gonna keep the large format to the floor only and figure something else out for wall. Maybe mosaic the whole thing.
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Old 08-31-2017, 07:42 PM   #49
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Ok. Easy one here instead of the usual rambling.

If I'm covering the bench with durock and Kerdi, is there a reason not to construct the frame out of plywood for the most part. Specifically talking about the front edge. Floating bench is 5' wide and support from 3 sides other than the front. So that front lip. I was originally going to just use 2x4 and maybe sandwich a piece of plywood for the long span but then all the wood is bowed and crooked so got to thinking maybe just ripping plywood would be better.

Thoughts?
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Old 08-31-2017, 08:59 PM   #50
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I did similar to you with my bench. I built the frame out of 2x4 and used 3/4 plywood on the top and all faces. It's a strong little piece of shower furniture. The 2x4 are screwed to the shower walls and floor and the plywood screwed to that. I used screws for all the framing rather than nails. That's just me. Drywall on top of that, and then the Kerdi. Tile just put on it this past weekend. More probably (hopefully) this weekend. I even left a note for the next homeowner inside the bench for when they tear out the shower and put in one of those newfangled futuristic ultrasonic laser wash units. My plan is to get at least 30 years out of the shower; by then I'll be ancient.
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Old 09-02-2017, 11:13 AM   #51
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Thanks Jeff.

Turns out, aesthetically speaking, I want my floating bench to be 4.5" thick. Is there any reason to use plywood on the underside of can I just screw in 1/4" durock provided I have enough cross members to screw into so there's no sag. If so, what kind of spacing should I look to keep for the 1/4" durock on the underside.

For 4.5", I'm thinking the sandwich looks like this:
3/8" tile
1/8" squished thinset
1/4" durock
1/2" plywood
2.5" (ripped 2x4, two of these with plywood in the middle all on their side)
1/4" durock on the bottom
1/8" squished thinset
3/8 tile

This totals 4.5". Kerdi being negligible maybe and extra thinset here and there might take me to 4 5/8"

Thoughts?
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:07 PM   #52
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4. Spanning what?

5. Spanning what? What are you calling their sides? What is the plywood for?
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:37 PM   #53
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Hey cx.

By sides I mean taking a 2x4 and placing it so the 3.5" direction goes up and down (vertical). Taking a 1/2" plywood and glue/nail to it in the same direction. Then another 2x4. Then I take the whole contraption and rip down to 2.5".

So vertically it'll be 2.5" and horizontally it'll be a sandwich of 1.5, .5 and 1.5 again.

This 'beam' will span a total a 5'. On the sides the bench will be supported like you would a table with legs and nailed/screwed into the studs. On the back it'll be screwed into studs and blocking. You think that 'beam' will be sufficient in terms of deflection?

I was going to put a 1/2" piece of plywood and top dimensions being 16"X5' along with 1/4" durock.

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Old 09-02-2017, 12:53 PM   #54
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The deflection calc doesn't let me doing anything less than 3.5" in height but a single 2x4 across a 5' spans shows as being at 440 which is enough for ceramic. I'm doing 24"x12" porcelain.

Figured my smaller plywood sandwich idea would be even stronger but can't really calculate it.

So two open items. General deflection and not using plywood as a backer to the durock on the underside.
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Old 09-02-2017, 01:40 PM   #55
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Hello,

I would think that the underside of your bench could be treated the same as a ceiling. For cement board directly over joists, that would require using 1/2" cement board, to my knowledge.

As to the beam forming the front edge of your bench, a few comments:

- The layer of plywood sandwiched in the middle is useless, omit it.

- If you want to use the Deflecto, you can get a reasonable approximation by doubling the span and doubling the height of your beam (leave the width unchanged).

- Deflecto for SYP or DF in good condition, 1.5" x 5" spanning 10.5' is L/159, no good. You could use a 3x4 on the flat, the Deflecto using scaled inputs is L/372.

- A stronger way to use the 3x4 would be upright, you could rabbet one corner to receive the plywood.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 09-02-2017, 01:51 PM   #56
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Interesting. I'll play with the doubling. Out of curiosity, why do you think the sandwiched plywood would be useless? My entire house sits on engineered osb I beams

Just tried it. 5" at 10' with 14" spacing. The center points of the beams would be at 14" and not 16". Using a 3" for two pieces of wood, I get 416 I think.

Heck, I'll use 3 pieces of would if I have to. I just don't want the vertical height to be more than 2.5".
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Old 09-02-2017, 02:00 PM   #57
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The strength of an engineered I-joist is based on the wood chords at the top and bottom of of the OSB web. If you used just an OSB web for a joist, it won't be very strong. :-)

BTW, I haven't read your whole thread to see why you are using a site built floating bench. Have you considered the Better Bench or a similar product?

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 09-02-2017, 02:16 PM   #58
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Use 10.5' for the doubled length, since you are at 5.25'.

What to use for the joist spacing is an interesting question. Since the beam is at the front of the bench and is just carrying load from half the width of the bench, it is arguable that you could use 8" for the joist spacing.

Anyway, if you are fixed on site built wood, and fixed on 2.5" of framing height, use a (kiln dried) 3x4 on the flat.

If you got a clear 3x4 (no knots), ripped it to 2.5" x 3", you could use it with the 3" dimension vertical by cutting a 15/32" tall by 1" wide rabbet on the top inside corner to receive your 1/2" plywood. That would be stronger, I think, although perhaps not worth the trouble.

But is 1/2" plywood sufficient? For floor construction, the minimum for 16" o.c. joists would be 5/8". Also, the plywood grain orientation needs to be running in the short direction of your bench, with all joints blocked.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 09-02-2017, 02:22 PM   #59
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I dunno. Seemed easier for the span and my lack of commitment to an actual design. With wood, I can mess with it and change it as many times as I want.

3 pieces of 2x it is then. 4.5" wide. 2.5" high

That gets me to 624 doing the calc your way. Wait, that also reduced distance between beams by another inch ... So closer to 700 on the deflection.
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Old 09-02-2017, 02:34 PM   #60
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What weight does the deflection calculator take into account? I mean a thousand pound load on that span is different than 300.
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