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Old 07-04-2017, 04:28 PM   #76
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1/2 by 1/2 for those large tiles unless your walls are pool table flat, then maybe a 3/8 by 1/4 if you're highly skilled and back burn.
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Old 07-09-2017, 07:28 PM   #77
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Got some Kerdi up on the bench and curb last weekend and on one wall today (yup, I'm still slow). Learned a few things: forming the Kerdi into inside corners holds better than outside corners, and that's with precreasing it. Wound up with a few empty pockets (had thinset on both surfaces, just bowed up and pulled away a bit on the 90* corner, was OK around the 135* edge of the bench) on the bend over the top to the side of the curb. Cut them out, filled, and put a patch over, so not a major hold up. I did the wall in halves, as it's just me laying the stuff in. Wound up with more thinset on the floor than on the wall. How do you get the stuff from the bucket on to the wall without it glooping off the trowel? I had it the consistency of between yogurt and ketchup, flowable, but still notchable. (I make a test with the leftover thinset and let it set just in case its not right. One batch got poured into the kerdiband box and I stuck a spacer in there. I can lift the whole box by the spacer. Another you can see that the fleece pulled off the Kerdi before breaking away. I can't separate the tiles with just using a screwdriver as a wedge (without enough force to break the tile); so it's been within the right consistency range.) Anyway, got the one wall up, but before I did, I noticed that the premade pipe patch is flatter and thicker on one side, than the other. I usually make my pipe cutouts a hair bigger than the pipe size, but to not get the patch to add a big bulge, I had to cut the drywall opening larger (you can see this around the showerhead opening).
I worked the thinset smooth with a plastic drywall knife and had lots of the thinset ooze from around the edges leaving it thin under the Kerdi. Smoothed out as many of the lumps from under it and a bit concerned about squeezing it down to nothing. There's some remaining lumps (about the same feel as the thickness of the KerdiBand, which I put on first) that I'll have to navigate around when tiling. I'm planning on two courses of 18x18 tile and was thinking of using a 1/4x1/4 trowel as the walls were very flat (used drywall shims and lots of screws). Because of the lumps, I'll probably have to go with a 1/2x1/2 (do they make 3/8x3/8?) I'm running a row of 2x2 mosaic; use the 1/2x1/2 or prefill the space for them a bit and use a smaller trowel after it sets for the mosaics?
Looking at the shower valve, I have the rubber ring patch for that, but there's not a premade ring for the smaller diverter valve. Do I just tile around that and apply silicone to the open edge afterwards, or run a circle bead on the Kerdi, let it set, and tile around that?
I used Roger's template for the niche Kerdi and had to modify it a bit to accommodate for the sloped floor, It tucked in snugly, just not thinsetted in yet.
Making progress, got the toilet in yesterday. It's starting to look like a bathroom!
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:48 PM   #78
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It's looking like it's almost there...

Slowly making some progress. I got the Schulter pan and drain in, but not plumbed yet. The floor has a 1/4" slope from one side of the shower to the other. That entire part of the house has a tilt, but I did get the floor flat. Used Henry self leveling underlayment to level the shower floor. Yeah, I know, should have done a mud pan. The curb was leveled and the walls plumbed while framing. I attached pics of the process. Less of a difference in the pan edge height than I thought there would have been.
The last pic is of the column that will be the anchor for the fixed glass of the shower entrance sliding doors and the rear 1/2 wall will have a fixed glass as well. The question is: I'm getting low on Kerdi and band (that stuff goes faster than you think). Do I need to put Kerdi around the entire column? I'm thinking just a few inches past where the glass panels will seal against the walls, so I would need to go just past the mid part of the column.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:16 PM   #79
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Just where the tile goes.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:31 PM   #80
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Tile would go around the whole column, but only one corner (2 half faces) would be exposed to water.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:52 PM   #81
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Jeff, I'd want waterproofing on three of those four sides. That's how many I see in the wet area. You can try to stop where the glass is and hope your water stops there, too, but the water will win.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-18-2017, 05:55 AM   #82
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Thanks CX. Kind of what my gut was telling me. I'll pick up one last roll of Kerdi-band and sleep better at night. I can see why the correct level of waterproofing is not so common in these parts (vs "tile and sealed grout is all you'll need") as just the additional materials adds a good chunk of change to the whole project, making the right bid on the job, the high bid.
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Old 07-19-2017, 07:14 PM   #83
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I got the rest of the Kerdi in, using left over bits on the column and the cutout from the base for the bench top. I did find that the premade corners are nice square right angles, while the floor has a slight slope, causing a corner to gap a bit. I missed this one and the thinset set before I smoothed and stretched it flatter. The Kerdi sheet and corners that came with the pan kit were a tad thicker and fuzzier than the Kerdi from the roll and the corners in the 2 pack (maybe just different lots.) I'm going to put some Kerdi-fix in there as I want to hit some of the corners and seams, just to be more comfortable. I'll do a flood test after I get the plumbing hooked up (otherwise there's nowhere for the water to go after the test). No question for this post, just an update.
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Old 07-19-2017, 08:36 PM   #84
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Just to make me feel better I always squirt some Kfix into gaps like that
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:47 AM   #85
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Drain grate placement

This is an opinion question; pros and DIY'ers responses welcome. The 2x2 mosaic has a thin spacing. The Schluter drain is the width of the 2x2 tiles plus the spacing on either side. If set the way I was planning, it would be flush up against the sides on all sides. I figure I have 3 options: 1) no grout space around the drain, 2) trim the adjacent tiles back a bit to have an even grout space with the rest of the tiles, and 3) offset the drain so it straddles the tiles and make the cuts with enough spacing for grout lines. What'd y'all think?
Also, when I pressed the drain flange into the thinset I gave it more pressure than probably should have and it's a bit deeper than even with the tray so there's a bit of a divot at the drain. Won't be a problem with function, but you can feel it when standing on it. Should I use a bit more thinset here to keep the tiles on a smoother plane to the drain trim, or follow the contour and the resulting divot? (same tile in both pics, the second picked up the color of Kerdi from the lighting angle.)
And to Paul, yes, I'll be getting some Kerdi-fix in any "iffy" spots.
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:58 AM   #86
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I'd let the perimeter where it meets wall determine how I did drain cuts. Try for no skinnies.
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Old 07-23-2017, 08:44 PM   #87
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Kerdi drain divot

I ran my flood test this weekend and no leaks. Some wicking of the water into the thinset that is over the surface of the kerdi around the corners, but no surprise there. I was dry fitting the 2x2 tiles and noticed that the divot that is around the Kerdi drain is because I pressed the flange a bit too deep so it's about 1/8" below the level of the tray. The membrane is already over the flange and the thinset has set, so no moving it up at all. I want the tile to transition over that area smoothly so was thinking of just having a bit thicker thinset under that section to compensate for the divot. Any problems with doing that? If so, any alternatives? Thanks
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:56 AM   #88
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I imagine you'd be fine doing what you suggest. I'd lay the tile out and see what I was in for prior to actually combing thinset on it. Depending on where grout lines are you may have a tile or three wanting to tip into that depression and raise opposite side resulting in lippage.

I've never used a foam pan, so I'm kinda winging it, but it might be worth it to trowel that area flat with thinset and let it dry or at least firm up before setting tile.
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:34 AM   #89
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Am I wasting my time?

I took a break for a bit to attend to other things, but that's par for the course on this project. Laid out the floor mosaic tiles and decided on the second option around the grate to avoid little tile slices along the edges. I had a bit of a hard time getting the cut tiles around the drain to stay nicely lined up, so thinsetted them to a piece of Kerdi. Just the 8 pieces around the grate are on the Kerdi, the others are there to hold them in position. And, yes; I got the Kerdi twisted when smooshing the tiles down to the sheet membrane. I'll cut the center out with a razor knife when it's hard. I'd then thinset the Kerdi with the tiles to the Kerdi on the floor. I just have to leave myself a note to embed the drain ring before putting the tile cuts in.
Does this sound like a reasonable approach, or should I rip 'em off before it sets up too hard and go piece by piece? I'm concerned about them shifting sideways or rotating, as well as sinking into the thinset and winding up making me look at them and go "Grrr" for the next 20 years. Thanks
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:56 AM   #90
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Hi Jeff. So, as of now, you have no tiles stuck to the shower floor, is that correct?

Did you leave a grout joint between the drain grate and your cut tiles?
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