Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-24-2017, 10:10 PM   #61
Davy
Moderator -- Mud Man
 
Davy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 28,581
Yeah, the tiles are usually pretty cheap. The bullnose are expensive. But, they don't give away the Schluter edges either.
__________________
Davy

www.davystephenstile.com
Davy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2017, 02:44 PM   #62
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 122
I'm back!

Got busy with other stuff and the bathroom wasn't going anywhere. Life's like that. Was thinking if I start early, I should be able to get the floor done today. Well I got a later start than anticipated and found out that my 12" snap cutter would barely fit a 13" tile. Also, porcelain tile is ALOT harder than the ceramic I've worked with in the past. It took a few passes to get a good score and the snap went where it wanted to, rather than where I wanted it. So I had to drag out the tile saw.
When I was doing the Ditra, I commented in a past post on how I had to make the Ditraset with much more water than the bag recommended. It calls for 5-6 qts per 50# bag. I probably used about the equivalent of 8 for the 1/2 bag to get it fluid but able to hold a notch. For the tile I started with the recommended water and it was way too thick to be workable. Wound up using about 7 pints for the half bag and it was still stiff.
1-is my water just thicker than everyone else's or do others find the same thing with the water proportions? (When I used the Versabond on the plywood, it mixed pretty much in the proportions directed.) Any issues with the tile adhesion with the Ditraset more fluid like for Kerdi?
I got about a box of tile down before it was getting too thick to use, Probably had about enough to do another tile or two. The stadiums in the Ditra-heat along with the 1/2" square notch trowel gobble up alot of thinset. I didn't think I'd need a leveling system but maybe could have used one. Never did a floor with a brickwork pattern before, always a grid. I was using a straight edge to run over the tile edges checking for any lippage when sliding. Because the thinset was stiffish, I had to stand on the tile and bounce into it to get them down a bit. My wife said "you said I can't walk on the floor for a few days after the tile goes down, but you can jump on it?" Good observation. I would press it down and the thinset would ooze and then when I'd let up it would pretty much suck back in. I guess I was mostly squeezing down the Ditra spaces. I used "leave in" tile spacers. Well they won't get left in as if they wound up over an empty channel for the heat cable, they would drop right down. I used them on egde. At least I know I got good coverage. I pulled up a few with the margin trowel as I went along and thought I would crack the tile before the suction let go. They didn't crack, but they were down there good. Looked pretty much 100%
2-since I stopped for the day, how long should I wait until I can get in there and get on with the rest? (Please copy and paste the following response: "you should wait at least a week" as I don't suspect I'll be motivated for the next few days.) I'll probably pull out the spacers tonight.
One note to others...Try to find a thinset that contrasts with your tile. I had a choice of white or white. Even if they had grey, it wouldn't help. Purple would be nice. I got bits and blobs of thinset on the tiles. The tile pattern has a random grey with while specks and lines in it. After sponging down and wiping the tiles to get the thinset off, I had to feel across each one to check if the white was missed bits of thinset or part of the design. It was a bit of both.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2017, 03:35 PM   #63
tatumjonj
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 455
If you're having to jump on the tile to move it, your thinset is way too thick.
__________________
Jon
tatumjonj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2017, 08:02 PM   #64
Davy
Moderator -- Mud Man
 
Davy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 28,581
When installing tiles, I like to have about 1/8 of thinset under the tiles, maybe a little more. That way, if the floor under the tiles has a high spot, I can push that tile down a little and have less thinset under it and the tiles will be flat. Having that little cushion of thinset helps. If you're mashing the tiles all the way down, you have no cushion. You can butter up if you need to but you can't go down any if the tiles are already hitting the Ditra.
__________________
Davy

www.davystephenstile.com
Davy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2017, 04:01 PM   #65
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 122
Jon was right on target with the thinset being too stiff. I finished the rest of the floor today except for the edge tiles that will need to be cut (I'll measure and cut them over a few evenings this comming week) with a thinner mixture. I used 7 qts per bag (vs the 4-6 recommended - my last mix was 6) and it was much easier to work and press down with just the heels of my hands and a bit of a shoulder oomph. Got the pop of air with much less pressure than the stiffer mix and still full coverage when I checked. A bit stiffer than I mixed for applying the Kerdi.
Davy, yes I have at least 1/8" of thinset under the tiles, more like 3/16". That's part of the reason the spacers were sliding under. The tiles I put down yesterday are in there pretty solid. Get a good solid thunk sound when whacking on them (as opposed to a hollow clunk). I wasn't going to risk pulling out a heating wire by prying one out just for curiosity's sake.
Some of the edge tiles will be a bit narrower than the narrow side of the notched trowel. The stadiums in the Ditra-Heat are already filled. Any issues with back buttering the Ditra and putting the notched thinset on the tile and squishing them in there. Most are in non traffic areas like up against the wall and the sides of the closet?
Thanks
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2017, 04:56 PM   #66
Davy
Moderator -- Mud Man
 
Davy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 28,581
Nothing wrong with that at all. Whatever it takes to get adequate thinset under the tiles.
__________________
Davy

www.davystephenstile.com
Davy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2017, 04:45 PM   #67
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 122
Floor tiles in!

I got the last tile in today. Would have been a few days ago, but as I was placing it into position, I was thinking to myself "wow, I haven't cracked a single tile on this whole floor", and no sooner had the thought entered my mind then - pop, I cracked it. It was one of the cut around the toilet flange ones. By the time I got a new one cut to size, the thinset was getting goopy, so it waited until the next batch got mixed. Anyway, the plan is to start grouting in the next few days. The guy at the tile distributor recommended Ultracolor over Keracolor due to the color stability and not needing regular sealing. He said its less gritty and less likely to scratch the tile surface. They have a matte flaze finish. (The thinset residue cleaned off pretty easy even after it had set up for a few hours) The drawback is that Ultracolor sets up quickly. A few questions:
1- I have about 60 sq ft to grout. How much "oomph" is needed to get the grout into the tile spaces? The cement grouts I've used many years ago were kinda creamy and easy to work with, plus I had lots of time. I used epoxy grout once and my arms ached from forcing the thick stuff into the joints and it was days of scraping to get the residue off.
2- can I do half one day and the other half the next? If yes, would it be best to stop in the middle of a tile or go to the end? Basically, the cold grout joint would be either end to end, at a "T" junction (brick pattern).
3- my grout float is old and kind of ratty around the edges. Would it be best to get a new hard float or one of the soft silicone-ish ones?
4- soft or hard sponge for clean up? I want to remove as little grout from the joints as possible.
Thanks
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2017, 06:23 PM   #68
rmckee84
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 2,079
1. Not much, its fairly easy to spread
2. Do it all at once
3. I cant see what your float looks like...sometimes you can clean up the edges with a razor knife.
4. I just use sponges made for grouting...the best way to make sure you arent removing too much grout is to follow the directions on the bag.

***Follow the directions to minimize grouting issues, keep the room cool, and don't overwash and you'll be fine. I'm not a fan of the grout you're using but many people like it.
__________________
Jack of most trades, master of none...
Ryan McKee
McKee Construction & Custom Tile
rmckee84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2017, 05:07 PM   #69
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 122
Ultracolor Plus FA grouting almost done

I mixed up quart batches with very cold water (4:1) of the Ultracolor Plus FA grout, being concerned that it would set quicker than I could get it down. That quantiy was just about right and does about 15sq ft of tile before it gets noticeably different in texture (kind of crumbly, but still softish - sort of like cookie dough vs. mashed potatoes). When mixing it, it at first seems not to take the water, much like trying to get talcum power mixed with water. After a bit it takes and gets sticky and thicker.
Just put in the 3rd batch (one more to go!) and a few lessons learned (in case anyone down the road does a search):
Though the instructions say you have up to an hour working time, I found it to be more like 25 minutes or so. I'm slow, so I didn't cover a lot of ground. I did use the margin trowel to work the grout in and then used the rubber float. The one I used is a firm rubber, much like the sole of a running shoe, but has a tiny diamond pattern that left ridges in the grout when dragged across. I used my gloved hand to smooth these down and close in any gaps pulled open at the edge of the tile where the float tugged at the grout. The color match is good where one batch meets the previous day's batch. The grout haze cleaned off the matte finish tiles well with the damp sponge but you do need to wait for the grout to really firm up before buffing things down.
Wear a cap or a head band. I must have added an extra cup of water to the floor just with the sweat dripping down. The A/C isn't hooked up in there yet and though it's not too hot, there's not much air circulating. It didn't put a fan in, worried it would dry out the grout even quicker.
If I use the same grout for the walls; I'll probably get a smoother float, like one of the ones for epoxy. With the finer aggregate, it is smoother to lay in than the usual sanded grouts I've used in the past.
There's light at the end of the tunnel!
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2017, 06:15 PM   #70
rmckee84
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 2,079
Not having a.c. definitely cuts down on pot life.
Did you let it slake and remix? Skipping that step shortens pot life as well.
__________________
Jack of most trades, master of none...
Ryan McKee
McKee Construction & Custom Tile
rmckee84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2017, 08:57 PM   #71
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 122
Yup, actually followed the directions on the package for a change.
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2017, 10:18 PM   #72
cx
da Home-builder -- Moderator-at-Large
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 85,055
You read the directions before using the product, Jeff? You could git yourownself throwed out of the Real Man club that way, don'tcha know.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2017, 05:49 AM   #73
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 8,814
Overachiever.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2017, 03:37 PM   #74
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 122
Actually started on the shower!

It's starting to look like a bathroom is on the way. I'll be picking up the toilet later this week. Got the closet and room doors on and the casings mounted. (Why is it that miters seem to be almost 45* but not quite?). Put in a roll worth of Kerdi band and some corners and the Kerdi on the front of the bench and some baseboard tiles. I mixed the Ditraset really wet but still able to leave a notch. What a difference from the mix it had to stand on to set the tiles on the floor! (the floor is solid though) Got about 2 hours pot life out the mix (for that little amount of work - yeah, I'm slow, but least the AC is hooked up in there now).
When I get to the tile stage, I plan on the bottom course being 18" square tiles, so up to the height of the bench top is a row of large files, and from there up is a pattern of 12 & 6 inch squares. I used a 1/2" square notch trowel on the 13" tiles on the floor and there was quite a thick bed of thinset under them. I used a 1/4' square notch on the baseboard tiles and they covered pretty well.
Since the walls aren't getting any foot traffic, can I use the 1/4" trowel on the 18" tiles? I'm a bit concerned that I'll have more thickness under them than the higher tiles and it'll have a ridge of lippage.
Thanks
__________________
Jeff

Last edited by Gozo; 07-04-2017 at 03:44 PM. Reason: Auto speller weirdness corrections
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2017, 05:28 PM   #75
rmckee84
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 2,079
You'll need to check your coverage, if you can get adequate coverage then by all means use the smaller notch. 80% in dry areas and 95% wet.
__________________
Jack of most trades, master of none...
Ryan McKee
McKee Construction & Custom Tile
rmckee84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
making a good base for wall tile in bathroom islandflyin Tile Forum/Advice Board 5 01-15-2013 12:33 PM
Bathroom Remodel, making shower larger, concrete slab ArbitraryLife Tile Forum/Advice Board 10 12-06-2012 09:01 PM
Making a bathroom shower from a closet mad mike Tile Forum/Advice Board 14 09-17-2009 05:50 AM
Making Bathroom tile Decision? splais Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 07-19-2009 10:55 AM
New Years Resolution - Remodel Shower damnthetorpedos Tile Forum/Advice Board 11 01-02-2005 05:15 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:16 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2014 John Bridge & Associates, LLC