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Old 02-12-2017, 04:11 PM   #31
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If you want to pre-fill those paper-to-paper edges before installing your membrane you can do so with drywall mud. No need to tape the joint, just make it flush with the drywall face.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-12-2017, 06:25 PM   #32
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That sounds easy-peasy. Thanks CX!
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:28 AM   #33
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Gaps in plywood

What do I do with the expansion gaps in the surface plywood layer of the floor? I have 3/8" over 3/4" plywood and left expansion gaps of 1/8" between the sheets of 3/8". I'm putting Ditra over this. If I just trowel on the thinset, it would fill the gaps and it wouldn't be able to expand. If I put tape or such over the gaps, the adhesion would be nil in those lines. Getting there, bit by bit. Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:13 PM   #34
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Filling in gaps and tapers in drywall

I've been reading other posts on prepping the tapers in Sheetrock before Kerdi. Most say to just use compound without tape. Some say that thinset wont stick to compound, so it should be painted with primer after filling and before Kerdi. Others say not to apply Kerdi over painted surfaces as it risks separating. I have a few gaps of about 3/16" on some outside corners that I'd want to fill also so the Kerdi can make a clean corner with some solid backing under the thinset. Now, after reading, I'm not really sure what use to get a smoother/flat surface. I usually use a setting compound if taping. Maybe fill the valleys with thinset. Opinions still welcome. I'll be using 6 and 12" tiles, so maybe its not even an issue. But working over an even base would let me sleep easier. Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:32 PM   #35
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Jeff, if I have perfect drywall corners where I plan to use a sheet-type waterproofing membrane, I always knock it down with a drywall plane before applying the membrane. Whole lot easier to get the material to properly fold over the corner, 'specially with Kerdi.

Entirely up to you, of course, but I wouldn't do any thing at all with your corners, presuming I understand at all what you've got. Photos generally help with questions like that.

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Old 02-28-2017, 06:55 PM   #36
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Perfect corners, I don't have. Sometimes the sheetrock fractures where it wants to and not where I want it to. Some crumbling edges cut back and some gaps about 3/16" (or less) at corners or butt edges.
On the pic of the outside corner, the upper area is where the edges don't touch and there's some frayed paper edge towards the lower area.
On both pictured types, fill or not fill? If fill, with what? Thanks
Attached Images
  
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:08 PM   #37
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If you're fixin to install kerdi, go right over what you have in those pictures.
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:25 PM   #38
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Thanks Paul. I do want to fill the beveled edges (no tape). Drywall compound then Kerdi, or compound, primer paint, them Kerdi?
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:42 PM   #39
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I would recommend you cut away those shredded paper curls. If you want to flatten the paper-to-paper edges, I recommend you just go over them with mud and a wide knife. Or you can Kerdi first and then go over them with thinset mortar and a wide knife. Or you can just leave them alone entirely if you're using tiles bigger than about 6x6 inches.

Again, knocking down those sharp outside corners will make installing your membrane much easier.

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Old 02-28-2017, 08:57 PM   #40
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So, just drywall mud, no primer (as some posts suggested); when dry then unmodified thinset and Kerdi, correct? I'll snip off any loose paper frays. Sorry to ask so many questions, but I want to get it as solid as practical and not have the be patching bits and pieces years down the road. Thanks.
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:28 PM   #41
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correct
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:27 PM   #42
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Plywood prep for Ditra

Finally able to get back to working in there. Finished the drywall prep and primer. Painting starts this weekend. My drywall skills leave a lot to be desired in the neatness department. Lots of blobs of both setting and regular compound wound up on the floor. Scraped up the bulk of it and then used the belt sander with 36 grit paper to sand the plywood to get the rest of the residue off. Still some whitish tinge in the wood grain pores. How clean does the plywood have to be to get sufficient adhesion with thinset under Ditra?
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Old 04-06-2017, 03:41 PM   #43
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That should be ok, I like to take a sponge and a few buckets of clean water and try and wipe it down good. That usually takes care of anything left.
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:48 PM   #44
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Ditra membrane - to fill or not to fill

Laying in the Ditra (heat) membrane using Versabond. I've read some say that after putting in the wires to fill the divots and over the wires with thinset, let it harden and then lay the tiles with thinset on the flat surface of the filled Ditra. That way the wires are less likely to get nicked by the trowel notches and you can be visually sure the thinset is keyed in. This vs. doing the tile with thinset in one go. I'm not time constrained (obviously by the thread title and the time from start to now). I'd appreciate any input on one method vs. the other. I'm leaning a bit towards the two step option, both for filling and wire protection. Thanks.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:10 PM   #45
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I don't think prefilling is approved by schluter, but it is common practice to do it for the reason you stated. I would prefill, but doing so may void your warranty from schluter.
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