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Old 04-11-2016, 12:24 PM   #16
cx
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John, you do the work in the sequence that works best or makes the most sense to you. For a one-coat mud application I would do the walls and curb first and the final mud bed last. The bricks still work well for the scratch coat on the bottom foot or so of your walls that you'll need where your backing material is missing.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:32 PM   #17
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I use to do a lot of one coat mud beds that had green board on the walls when I got there. The first thing I would do is trim the green board at the top of the pan liner. This would allow the lath to step back 1/2 inch along the bottom of the walls. I could still nail the lath about 10 inches up off the floor without getting them too low. That 1/2 inch would then be filled with a scratch coat of mud with bricks leaning against the lath along the bottom to hold it all in.

By the way, #15 felt covered the green board before the lath went up.
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:53 PM   #18
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Thank you CX!! And thank you again Davy. Everyone on this site is very generous with their time and advice. YI admire you guys.


I'm a little slow, so I just want to be sure I understand something that Davy wrote. Am I supposed to first do a "scratch coat" on just the loose section of lath hanging down (held in place with brick), and let it set, before floating the rest of that same wall?
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:08 AM   #19
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John, doing an initial scratch coat at the bottom as Davy has suggested would mean exactly what you're thinking. Scratch it one day, come back and float it out the next. I would scratch the dam/curb as well. You would have a hard time getting the final mud to stick when wire is floppy and resting against a watertight surface like the liner without the initial scratch first. Hope that helps
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:27 AM   #20
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Thank you Justin! Exactly what I needed.
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Old 04-13-2016, 05:17 PM   #21
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Hi John, what Justin said. Any place you have lath flapping in the wind needs a scratch coat. Just try to get the scratch as thin as you can. The thicker it is, the thicker your wall will need to be to get out over it. Like I mentioned before, I usually cut the sheetrock out along the bottom section of the walls so the lath bends back in that 1/2 inch. Then that 1/2 inch is filled with my scratch coat.
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Old 04-16-2016, 02:45 PM   #22
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Thank you Davy!

When I do the final coat over the scratch coat, do I need to use any kind of bonding? JB's book makes it sound like that is unnecessary if you do the second coat within 24 hrs. ?
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Old 04-16-2016, 04:28 PM   #23
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Tile industry standards call for a minimum cure time of 24 hours and more depending upon temperature and humidity in your work area, for your scratch coat before the leveling coat is applied. The requirement then is to dampen the scratch coat before applying the brown, or leveling, coat.

For that small area we're discussing at the bottom of your one-coat shower walls I wouldn't be much concerned about shortening the cure time, but the 24 hours is a good reference.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:21 PM   #24
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Yep, what CX said. I have a pump up yard sprayer for wetting down my scratch coat. If it has only dried one day then it may not need much water but sometimes we end up waiting several days and it might take a couple gallons or more to get the scratch wet enough. You want the scratch coat to dry your finish coat a little but not too much.
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:38 PM   #25
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scratch coat with premixed fat mud, second coat with fat mud made w/ masonry cement?

Thanks again.

I understand the difference between the various ways to make fat mud, and the correct volume ratios. I have some quikrete type s stucco/mortar mix, and I was planning to use it to do the scratch coat on the lower section of the shower wall where the lath is just hanging loose. If I do that, can I do the second/finish coat with fat mud made from type s masonry cement and sand? I am just wondering if there would be any problem with the two mortar coats adhering to each other. ?
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:46 PM   #26
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The two muds don't have a problem bonding as long as you scratch the first coat. The rough scratch gives the second coat something to grab on to.

I have used masonry cement in the past but found it to be a little short on portland cement. So I would always add portland to the mix. For as much masonry that you put in the batch add about half that much portland. If you make your own mix, just make sure the sand isn't too fine.

Buying enough Qwikcrete would be the safest.
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:08 PM   #27
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Ok, I will take that advice and use the bags of quikrete. Thanks again!!!!
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:56 PM   #28
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Avoiding mistakes when hanging lath for mud shower?

My shower stall is 46" x 39", with a doorway with jambs and header (there's an exhaust fan duct in the shower stall ceiling.) I'm following the method where the sheetrock stops just above the pan liner. JB's tile your world book gives some instruction on hanging the lath and doing the jambs, but I want to avoid the rookie mistakes if possible. Are there any procedures I should follow? things to avoid? thanks!
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:40 PM   #29
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When I do one coat shower walls, I staple #15 tar paper to the sheetrock and any raw wood like the jamb, then the lath goes up. I then would drive nails in the lath to each stud about 6-8 inches apart. Keep all nails 3 inches above the top of the curb. Between the studs, just staples thru the lath into the sheetrock is fine.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:44 PM   #30
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Ok. Thanks again, Davy. I appreciate your help.
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