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Old 03-12-2016, 10:06 AM   #1
Michael Kehoe
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How long should I wait before water testing Choraloy pan liner?

Yesterday I put in a chloraloy liner with a kohler clamping drain assembly. I put a bead of nobleseal 150 between the bottom assembly and the liner, then tightened the clamping ring. Wondering how long I should wait before performing the flood test?

thanks!

Mike K
Lyons NY
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:17 AM   #2
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Hi John. I've never used the Nobleseal 150 but I would read on the tube to see how long it takes to dry and go by that.
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:33 AM   #3
Michael Kehoe
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Thanks, Davy. The nobleseal tube says, "times for curing can vary from 30 minutes to 24 hours ... allowing seams to cure overnight is recommended." (I don't have any lapped seams) I was wondering, though, if pros usually just went ahead and tested right away, due to time constraints? In my case I'll just wait a full 24 hours.
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:43 PM   #4
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Too much sealant around drain flange - caution!

Yesterday I installed my first pan liner. (Chloraloy cpe) When I went to put a bead of Noblesealant 150 around the lower drain flange, I made the mistake of thinking that if a little is good, more is better. I then put the liner over the lower flange, applied the clamping ring, and tightened it. Unfortunately, because I used too much noblesealant, it began squeezing out between the liner and the lower flange, and clogging the weep holes and space between the clamping ring tail and lower flange. I had to remove the clamping ring several times to clean away the excess in an attempt to keep the weep holes clear. This was not easy, as noblesealant is about the stickiest substance on the planet. Definitely wear nitrile gloves when using noblesealant, and don't use too much! I would also suggest to keep the bead of sealant to the outside perimeter of the flange.
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:28 AM   #5
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Yep, all it takes is a small bead around the outside edge. I've had the sealant mash out too. After it dries, I have taken a drill bit or a nail and run thru the weep holes that are near the bolt heads to make sure they are clear.
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:29 PM   #6
Michael Kehoe
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Will Durock label residue affect application of liquid waterproofer?

I am putting up durock in my shower, over which I plan to use a liquid waterproofing membrane. When you remove the durock label stickers from the board, they leave behind a sticky glue residue. Do people remove this residue, and if so, how? I tried soapy water and an abrasive dish sponge, to no avail. Goo Gone is good at removing sticker residue, but I am wary of using it on the cement board. It seems that if the residue is not removed it will create a problem with the waterproofing membrane. Any advice will be appreciated. thanks.
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:55 PM   #7
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A 4" wallpaper razor scraper gets most of the residue off relatively quickly. I wish they'd switch to a different system. I've been peeling those off for years.

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Old 04-04-2016, 03:28 AM   #8
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You could always do like the hacks I've seen around here and tile right over the label.

A little rubbing alcohol will remove some adhesives. I've never found the residue to be a significant bond breaker, though.
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:33 AM   #9
Michael Kehoe
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Thank you!!
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Old 04-11-2016, 04:40 AM   #10
Michael Kehoe
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Mud shower with pvc liner - correct order for floating walls, curb and final mud bed?

Hello, I am building a mud shower as described in JB's Tile Your World Book. I already have the preslope, pan liner, wall moisture barrier and metal lath in place. To avoid puncturing the liner, the bottom 9" of lath is hanging down, unsecured. I know that this lath will eventually be held in place by the final mud bed. But, am I supposed to mud the walls before the final mud bed, while the bottom portion of lath is still unsecured? Or, am I supposed to float the final mortar bed first and lock the wall lath (and curb lath) in place before floating the walls? The latter makes more sense to me. thanks for any help!
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:42 AM   #11
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Are you doing a one coat shower or a two coat? If you nailed the felt and lath right to the studs then you need to do a two coat. If you nailed up sheetrock or greenboard first and then covered that with felt and lath, you can do a single coat. The first coat is called the scratch coat and it's purpose is to basically give you a solid surface for the second coat. Without the scratch coat, the lath would flex too much when mudding the walls, making it very difficult to get the walls flat and plumb. So, on single coat walls, the sheetrock acts as the scratch coat, making the walls stiff enough for the finish coat.

All my showers are two coat mud walls. I scratch the walls with the first coat and use a rake to give it a rough texture. This rough surface helps the next coat grab hold. After scratching the walls and cleaning up your mess, place some bricks, rocks or anything you have against the lower section that's loose. The bricks will hold the scratch and lath tight to the walls while it sets overnight. The next day you can remove the bricks and the mud/lath will stay put.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:55 AM   #12
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Here's an old mud thread that might be helpful. Might take all day to read thru it.
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ead.php?t=3579
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:54 AM   #13
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Welcome, Michael.

I've combined three of your threads on this shower project here so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

And if you'll add that geographic location to your User Profile it'll remain permanently in view to aid in responding to some types of questions.
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:56 AM   #14
Michael Kehoe
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Thanks for the link Davy. I am doing a single-coat wall. In that case, should I follow the procedure you gave (use a brick to hold the lath tight against wall) and mud the wall first, or should I put in the final mortar bed first and hold the lath tight that way, and then mud the wall? thanks.
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:16 AM   #15
Michael Kehoe
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CX - i didn't combine the questions myself because they are not all about the same type of project (one is cbu walls, the other is mud) Because of that, I think it's a bit confusing to the reader to combine the questions, but that's your call. btw, my location is lyons, NY, and I will note that in my bio.

In any event, I still don't have an answer to the question that I asked, which involves a single coat mud job - the order of floating the walls, curb and final mud bed. I appreciate Davy's response, but I'm not doing a scratch coat. thanks.
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