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Old 02-10-2015, 11:26 AM   #31
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Stabilia is a fine level...spendy...but a real nice level.

As CX said, you simply need to cut the drain at an appropriate place and add some more pipe to it to get it where you want it. If you only need to move some drains a few inches here or there, you probably will be fine to simply move 'em. Some concerns are if you have to move them MANY inches as there are codes about distance to vents and such that might need consideration. In your case, you are probably fine but I don't see the whole picture, right?

When you start moving items that require holes in your sub-floor, like plumbing, you're going to need to most likely replace the subfloor and perhaps even large chunks of it depending upon how things are laid out and where you can secure the new stuff for proper support. Or you might be able to get away with replacing small sections and add blocking/support to the existing structure to get a good, secure place to screw the new subfloor pieces to.

I would butt up new/old subfloor.

Your call on the Kerdi-board first/last vs. shower tray first last. I would probably do the Kerdi-board first so you have a nice plumb wall to butt the shower tray up to but it wouldn't be wrong at all to do the tray first and Kerdi-board on top of it. There will be the angle of the tray in that the Kerdi-board won't sit perfectly flush with the top of the tray but big whoop, I say. You'll just Kerdi-band that area regardless of who is first. Maybe doing the Kerdi-board on top will give you just enough Kerdi-board left over to do the curb with...maybe??
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:28 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe
If I remove some of the subfloor, do I leave a space between the new and old sheathing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
And that one I'm afraid I don't grasp at all.
I'll take a stab: "If I replace a section of the subfloor, do I need to leave a gap between the new piece (patch) and the existing subfloor panels?"

Assuming I interpreted the question right, my guess at the answer is yes, you would leave a 1/8" space between the new panel and old. Also you will want to add blocking to support the seams between the patch and the existing subfloor. In addition take care to orient the patch correctly - plywood and OSB products are stronger in the long dimension than the short, so the long dimension should run perpendicular to the joists.

And if I interpreted your question incorrectly, those answers are probably not right.
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:25 PM   #33
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Question Levels, moving drains, subfloors

Let me try this again. Sometimes it's challenging to know what questions to ask.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpad007
Stabilia is a fine level...spendy...but a real nice level.
Do you prefer a digital level? What do you use to measure pitch? Do you use a laser level when you tile walls and floors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpa007
As CX said, you simply need to cut the drain at an appropriate place and add some more pipe to it to get it where you want it. If you only need to move some drains a few inches here or there, you probably will be fine to simply move 'em
.

I will be replacing the subflooring in the shower stall because it had some mold from the leaky fiberglass stall and some of the wood is soft. Then I'm going to add 1/2" subflooring on top of it, and Ditra on top of the second layer of subfloor. I plan on making the entire bathroom floor waterproof. Should I move the drain to center it? After installing the 1/2" Kerdi-Board on the walls, the center of the drain will be located 15 3/8" from the north wall; 15 7/8" from the south wall; 14 1/2" from the east wall; and 16 1/2" from the beginning of the 5" curb.

Then I'm concerned that I might not be able to get the drain exactly where I need it because of the layout of the pipes currently installed. Maybe my photos are not illustrating my point.

Thanks once more for your input and helpful feedback .
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Old 02-15-2015, 09:10 PM   #34
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Stabila makes good levels. I have several. I like them for interior trim work and such, 'specially for door and window work. Never wanna be without a 32" and 78" for door work. Plus the 24" and 48" below.

I much prefer Sands cast aluminum levels outside and for anything involving Portland cement. All my 24" and 48" levels are Sands.

Shorter than that and I buy whatever torpedo level is on sale on accounta they don't seem to last long no matter what.

I always want spirit levels, not digital. I like laser levels, too, and use one often. And yes, setting wall tiles is one of my favorite uses for a laser.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe
What do you use to measure pitch?
Measuring tape. Measure from level how far horizontally, how much rise, make a mark.

Always good to have the shower drain centered. Up to you how much work you wanna do and how accurate you want your centering.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-16-2015, 11:15 AM   #35
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For the best looking shower floor, you'll want to do your best to get that drain centered dead nuts on. And since you are using the Schluter shower pan, it would look best to center the drain. Otherwise, you are going to end up with different heights where the pan meets the wall on account of you having to trim the shower pan unequally all around. Your goal is to trim that shower pan (assuming you need to trim it) and take off the same amount all around the perimeter.

I read that your shower stall is a perfect square? Something like 30" x 30" or thereabouts? If so, then you still want a perfect square after cutting down the foam pan and you want the drain in the dead center.
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Old 02-18-2015, 05:38 PM   #36
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Levels and Shower drain

Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
Never wanna be without a 32" and 78" for door work. Plus the 24" and 48" below. And yes, setting wall tiles is one of my favorite uses for a laser.
Thanks CX. I wasn't sure whether it was better to have a 6' or 78" level.

If I wanted to use the KISS method for installing the tile, should I use the laser level? What would be the alternative to using a laser level? Keeping in mind this is my first project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpad007
I read that your shower stall is a perfect square? Something like 30" x 30" or thereabouts? If so, then you still want a perfect square after cutting down the foam pan and you want the drain in the dead center.
Shower stall dimensions: (With ” Kerdi-Board installed and 5" curb) north to south is 31.25”; east to west is 31”. So if I want to get it perfect I would need to move the drain 1/4" to the south wall; and 3/4" to the west (shower curb). If I don't move the drain, I could still match up the grout lines by cutting the bottom tile a smidge more. Since the east wall I guess would be noticeable to someone with discreet eyesight. The north and south walls should be almost perfect. Am I correct? Will the water go down the drain properly?

A friend told me to work backwards if I decide to move the drain. He said it's easier to figure out where to cut the pipe if you work backwards. My initial thought is to cut as little of the pipe as possible. I'll get advice from some plumbers if I decide to move it.

Thanks much ,
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Old 02-18-2015, 09:48 PM   #37
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The alternative to the laser level is the spirit level, Joe, and a whole lotta tile pros use nothing else for setting their wall tiles, as do I if the laser is not at hand.

I've always maintained that there are two ways to be really good at the construction trades; you can have a lotta talent, or you can have a lotta tools. I started buying tools at a very early stage in my career.
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Old 02-18-2015, 10:32 PM   #38
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Quote:
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I've always maintained that there are two ways to be really good at the construction trades; you can have a lotta talent, or you can have a lotta tools. I started buying tools at a very early stage in my career.
Having access to JB Forums and all the great pros helps, too.
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Old 02-24-2015, 03:12 PM   #39
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Tile wall to drywall corner transition

Thanks again guys

I removed the drywall and corner bead on the corner of the shower stall wall that I'm prepping for tile. I'm going to hang Kerdi-board on the shower stall wall, then tile the wall right to the corner. I don't want a Schluter. The perpendicular wall still has the drywall, which is in good shape. Although, I have to shave maybe an 1/8" off. Should I just cover the one wall with mud at the corner? I don't know if I could put a corner bead and mud on Kerdi-Board

Furthermore, if I could, I'm not sure I would still be able to keep the wall that I'm tiling plum and level.

Thanks, as always
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:02 PM   #40
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Drywall Wet-wall corner

Link to another thread on this forum
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...d.php?t=106409


If you're using Kerdi-Board on the wet-wall, this is the best practice as per Schluter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scluter-Kerdi Support via You Tube Channel
I verified our best practice recommendations in regards to your question with our Technical Support team. The way we would recommend doing this is to use the KERDI-BAND over the seam between the KERDI-BOARD and the drywall. The KERDI-BAND over the drywall can then be covered with joint compound before priming and painting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schluter-Kerdi Support via their website
Hi Joe,

It sounds like they pretty much covered everything the only thing I would have to add to that is wherever you are laying the tile over the joint compound to make sure those areas are primed with a latex primer first. Please let me know if there is anything else I can assist you with!

Best Regards,
Kayla Wallenhorst

Customer Support Specialist | Schluter Systems L.P.
194 Pleasant Ridge Road | Plattsburgh, NY | 12901
Tel: 888-472-4588 x6102 | Fax: 800-477-9783
Hope that helps
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:08 PM   #41
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Question Question re: shower niche

I already have the Schluter 12" x 20" shower niche. After watching the Schluter video, I was going to install it before I started tiling. My tile is 12 x 12, so if I use this niche I wont be able to match up my grout lines. I was thinking about making a 12 x 24 custom niche out of Kerdi-board, so I can match up my grout lines. The pros Ive seen use this method say its better to install the tile up to one row under the niche so you can match your grout lines; but these same pros only used few screws through the Kerdiboard and into the horizontal studs to secure them. Id like to use this method if there was a way of fastening the horizontal studs securely to the vertical studs. Or is there a way to make the grout lines almost invisible. I noticed that John Bridge was able to accomplish this in his project (see photos in his book). Although, Im not John Bridge
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:50 PM   #42
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I'm running into the same problem Joe. I wasn't thinking when I bought the 12x20 niche, I thought I was just saving a little money by not having to buy 2. Now I don't know how I will do my tile layout.

I was thinking about getting a granite shelf instead of the one provided, to make the niche a bit bigger, and you won't have to tile the shelf that's provided. I also will not have bullnose tile, so I can't use tile as a shelf.
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:24 PM   #43
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Read this thread (the leaks have been solved) on how I install my niches after tiling has started. Kerdi board makes it a breeze. My grout joints always line up correctly now.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:22 PM   #44
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by DT DIYer
I was thinking about getting a granite shelf instead of the one provided, to make the niche a bit bigger, and you won't have to tile the shelf that's provided. I also will not have bullnose tile, so I can't use tile as a shelf.
Thanks DT.

I don't have a bullnose tile either. I was going to cut the tile, and hone it. Check out You Tube, and this site for honing tile
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:42 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
Read this thread (the leaks have been solved) on how I install my niches after tiling has started. Kerdi board makes it a breeze. My grout joints always line up correctly now.
Paul, I like the fact that you don't have that skinny tile, that's definitely what I want to avoid . This is my first time doing any major renovation, and I've been learning as I'm going along. You don't have a video do you? I'll have to read over your instructions several times. Did you place horizontal studs on the top and bottom of your niche? I'm wondering if the kerdi-fix makes your niche leak proof/water proof? Is it sturdy enough after you made slits in the kerdi-board?

Thanks,
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