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Old 10-05-2014, 01:51 PM   #16
TileDisciple
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Question Shower plumbing/valves

Quote:
Originally Posted by leon82
depending on your drain style would determin where to cut the pipe. a 3 piece drain may need a different pipe height than a kerdi drain, ect. the drain instructions should say. There is a kerdi drain rough in guide in the liberry
Thanks Leon. Yes I have PVC pipe. I'll read the Kerdi guide.

I'm very unhappy with the Sharkbite Slipball 1/2" valve (model 24735LF) that I purchased. I'm trying to add a shutoff valves in the crawlspace for my shower. I'm connecting CPVC to PEX, and the support desk told me that this valve will do the job. The long slip end is supposed to slide over the CPVC, from what I was told. However, the instructions on the packaging state that it's for copper only. I revisited the Sharkbite website and here is what it says, " The SharkBite connections allows the user to connect the ball valves to copper tubing, CPVC and PEX in seconds with relative ease." So I went ahead and tried to install one valve to the hot water line. I got a nice clean cut on the CPVC by using the "Rigid 1/2" close quarters tubing cutter." I then sanded off the sharp edge around the pipe. I used the measuring tool and marked the PEX accordingly. I got it on only by struggling to slide it over the CPVC. Because I had to struggle to slide it on, I tried getting it off with the demount clip, but to no avail. It is working, but I may take it off and replace it with another PEX valve. Do you have another recommendation? Thanks.
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Old 10-05-2014, 07:31 PM   #17
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I have used the shark bites in my basement, but only on copper and pex. I have found the the fitting and pipe must be very straight to slip on. some are preloaded with the pex support bushing required for pex. i am sot sure if you need them for cpvc. it may have caused some extra drag as you push them together.

I got an apollo crimp tool for 40 and a pack of 10 rings was about 6. then you can use the threaded pex fittings in standard ball valves and solvent weld a thread fitting on the cpvc.

I only suggested it because I watched my savings from using pex over copper vanish with the sharkbite fittings.

I used copper in the walls because if the oring or crimp were to fail you will need to cut the wall to replace the fitting.

If its not leaking I would leave it. since it is in the crawlspace it it were to leak you could fix it easily.
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Old 10-05-2014, 07:34 PM   #18
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Also the valve in your picture has 2 pex fittings on it so you may need the crimp tool anyway.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:31 AM   #19
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Question Tile selection



1) Can I use a 12 x 12 porcelain tile for the tile floor? Or is it better to use mosaic sheet on the shower floor because it bends easily to the contour of the slope of the shower floor?

2) The tile Im purchasing doesnt come with a bullnose. Do you have any recommendations for the first tile - for entrance to shower stall?
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:56 AM   #20
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You can use a schluder profile type trim or some tile shops have a bullnose service they charge by the foot for.

You can purchase a bullnose diamond wheel also

You will get more foot grip with small tile on the floor. Laying them to match the slope without lippage is probably very hard.
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Old 10-22-2014, 02:35 PM   #21
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Question Foundation support/thinset

Thanks leon 82

1) How do I know if my bathroom floor and shower framing is sturdy enough to support the tile on my shower walls, shower floor and bathroom floor? I've added some 2" x 6"'s and 2" x 8"'s in between the shower frame. I'm going to add 2" x 8" pieces in between the floor joists. I'd rather have overkill. My porcelain shower wall and bathroom floor tile is 12" x 12", and it's .315" thick. I'm going to use a Mosaic 2" x 2" porcelain tile for the shower floor.

2) How thick should my thin set be? I was planning on using 1/8" because John wrote in his book that he used that amount. I don't know if it varies based on the tile? I'm calculating where to install my universal rough valve body.

By the way, the problem I had sliding the SharkBite Slip ball valve onto the CPVC pipe was most likely my own fault. I don't think I cleaned all the dust off the pipe before I put the valve on. I installed the second valve without a problem. I cleaned the second pipe off with soap and water before installing the slip ball valve, and I had no problem.
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Old 10-22-2014, 03:27 PM   #22
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I believe 3/32 (.093) is the minimum so 1/8(.125) should be fine. also don't go over the maximum printed on the mortar bag.
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Old 10-22-2014, 07:31 PM   #23
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Joe, we have no information at all about your floor framing. You can start by putting the required information into our Deflectometer in the dark blue bar near the top of the page. That'll give you a go/no-go on the joist structure. The subflooring you'll need to tell us about.

The wall framing, if those studs are spaced no more than 16" on center, doesn't look bad aside from what appears at a glance to be excessive notching of the stud next to your control valve. That should have been bored rather than notched. But I can't measure it from here to be sure and I don't know if that is a bearing or non-bearing wall.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:06 PM   #24
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Question Floor/Wall framing

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Joe, we have no information at all about your floor framing... The wall framing...
.

Re: the Deflectolator, I believe the joists are in relatively good condition. They're 2" x 8" and spaced 16" on center. How do I determine the joist length? My sub-floor is APA engineered, PS1-5, PRP 108, 24OC 23/32. The article in the Library seems to indicate that my subfloor isn't fit for tile flooring. What should I replace it with? A friend told me to replace all the subfloor with cement board.

I've added some more photos. I was also planning on blocking the joists. You see from my photo I've added 1 block. Will blocking the joists help?
I've also blocked some of the wall studs. I've seen guys on YouTube do this. Does this add strength to the walls?

Re: the shower frame wall: the notch in the 2" x 4" stud is 2 1/4" in height, and 1 1/2" deep. I can add a 2" x 4" stud on one side of the notched stud and screw them together, if that will help. Here's how the wall spacing looks: north wall: 12 1/2" and 19"; east wall: 15" and 15"; The south wall has
2" x 6" studs, and they're spaced: 19 1/2", 17 1/2" and 15".

PS I'm going to a Shluter-KERDI conference in Indianapolis Nov. 11 -12

Thanks again,


Joe
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Old 10-25-2014, 07:25 PM   #25
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You don't care about the length of your floor joists, you need to know the unsupported span of the joists. The distance between whatever useful structures that support them from below.

The added blocking makes no difference in the design deflection.

Your subflooring meets all tile substrate manufacturers' minimum requirements. Not sure what inna Liberry says otherwise, but........
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe
A friend told me to replace all the subfloor with cement board.
Mmmm, I would suggest he's not really your friend. While you must install a substrate of some kind, it will not be a substitute for an adequate subfloor.

Your wall framing needs help.

The notch is just marginally in excess of the maximum allowable if that is a non-bearing wall. Here's a good notching and boring guide that might help you with such decisions.

The stud spacing is an issue that needs attention. You'll need to have no spacing in excess of 16" on center anywhere. And that corner that we can see in photo #1 must have another stud to provide edge nailing and support for your wallboard.

The blocking between studs doesn't buy you anything, but it doesn't hurt anything, either.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:07 PM   #26
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Question Deflecto/Walls/Joist spacing

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You don't care about the length of your floor joists...
But one of the parameters of the Deflectolator is the joist length, so I'm confused.

Re: 16" spacing in the walls, I've got plumbing in the walls. So you're saying I have to redo plumbing? Why is the 16" spacing in the walls important?

Re: 16" spacing in the joists under the bathroom, I think I have maybe one or two places where the joists are spaced over 16", what do you suggest I do in these cases?

Thanks again,

Joe
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Old 10-26-2014, 06:44 PM   #27
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Well, I suppose I've never been distracted by that "Joist Length" wording in the Deflectometer on accounta I know what we're looking for there is the unsupported span of the joist. And if you'll think about what you're trying to calculate, you won't be distracted, neither.

Maybe we should actually change that wording in the Deflectometer.

What you're trying to calculate is the design deflection of your joists between supports. If you have a 16-foot joist length that has support at each end and another in the center, your actual unsupported span for deflection would be something less than 8 feet.

I don't know if you'll need to re-do any plumbing or not, I know only that you need to reduce your stud spacing to no more than 16" on center. That's the requirement of every manufacturer of a wallboard you can use in there.

If your floor joist spacing is greater than 16" on center I'd recommend you add another layer of nominal half-inch plywood subflooring.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-06-2015, 08:13 PM   #28
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Various Questions Pertaining to Renovation

Good evening,

I need to purchase a few good levels. I have a 2 foot level. I want to purchase a torpedo level, a 4 foot, and 6 foot level for working on this renovation and future projects. Can you make a recommendation?

I'm going to use the Schluter - Kerdi materials in this bathroom. I'll be using Kerdi-Board on the walls of the stall shower, and the 48" x 48" shower pan ST-122. I plan on installing a custom curb 4 wide x high (recommendations)? made from 1/2" Kerdi-Board. Excluding the curb, my shower stall area will be 31 x 31 (after the 1/2" Kerdi-Board is installed).

Ill still have to move my drain about 1 to the west (down in the first photo) to get it centered. What's the best way to do that?

What should I be concerned with when adding to or shortening my shower drain pipe (photos 1 and 2)?

Same question for my toilet drain (photo 3)?

If I remove some of the subfloor, do I leave a space between the new and old sheathing?

Is it better to install the Kerdi-Board on the walls before installing the Kerdi shower tray?

Anything else that I should be concerned with?


Thanks again,


Joe
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:59 AM   #29
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Is everyone fishing?



Or did I reach my quota on questions?


Thanks,
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:25 AM   #30
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Nope, no quotas here, Joe. Problem for some of us is not understanding the questions.

If I try to answer a question such as "how do I shorten my pipe," it's gonna sound smart-assed on accounta I'll tell you to cut some off. I can't see just what it is you wanna do there, but for moving drain pipes you cut out what you have and install what you want.

Beyond that I'll need some clarification.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe
If I remove some of the subfloor, do I leave a space between the new and old sheathing?
And that one I'm afraid I don't grasp at all.
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