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Old 09-26-2014, 02:25 PM   #1
TileDisciple
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Novice First Time Project

Thanks for this site!

I've had my house for sale. I thought I had glue under my bathroom linoleum floor, but it turned out to be mold that formed from water that leaked through my fiberglass shower stall onto the wood subfloor. I'm not much of a handyman, so I've watched some YouTube videos, found this forum, and purchased a few books.

I'll be replacing the shower plumbing using pex as soon as I can decide on the tile. I have a few questions to start.

I'd like something that's easy to work with, affordable, durable, and great looking.

1) I'm thinking about using stone tile for the floor in the shower and bathroom.

2) I need some recommendations for the shower walls. I'm tiling from the floor to the ceiling, but not tiling the ceiling.

3) I want a door less entry. I'd rather not even use a shower curtain. But as you can see, it's a small shower. Can you give me some advice?

4) I'm planning on adding some additional wood between the studs (2x6's) in the shower frame and replacing some portions of the subfloor. What's the best practice here?

I'm about to purchase John's book, Tile Bathroom Remodeling: From Tear-out To Trim-out

Thanks once more,


Joe
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Old 09-26-2014, 03:39 PM   #2
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Do you plan on selling the house once the bathroom is repaired? you may not recoupe your investment of a custom curbless shower.

With no door or curtain your going to need to consider drainage and waterproofing.

A potential buyer may ask for permits if they have a decent realator.

you can search and find threads with sheet type membranes and liquid membranes. also there are the more traditional methods which are easier on the wallet but effective when done right.

You cant go wrong reading thru the Liberry, the link at the top of page
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:33 PM   #3
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Thanks Leon

Yes, I will be selling the home. It's my first home, which I've owned for just over ten years. I live in a rural community. We don't need building permits to do what I am doing. Don't bathrooms and kitchens sell homes? I'm definitely trying to keep my costs down. I'm doing this to help sell my home. Until then, I'll enjoy it myself. I'll look at other posts.

Thanks again,


Joe
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Old 09-27-2014, 05:36 PM   #4
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As a backer for the walls, I did mine with Propanel and it worked fine. No vapor barrier needed, and if installed according to instructions, is waterproof. Being foam, easy to cut and handle as weight is 6# per 3X5 sheet.
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:28 PM   #5
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Re the stone tile, I recommend a Hi Def grade photo grade porcelain . Much cheaper and more robust versus real stone. Lots of styles and colors to choose from too.

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I've not used pro-panel but if it's nothing like Kerdi board it's definitely the way to go.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:37 PM   #6
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Welcome, Joe.

When I was building and remodeling, doorless showers were a specialty of mine and I've done widely varying shapes and sizes. I would not attempt one in the space you show in your photo.

But that's entirely up to you, of course.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart
As a backer for the walls, I did mine with Propanel and it worked fine. No vapor barrier needed
Bart is this a substitute for Kerdi board? It saves me some extra work? Would you just put thin set on top of the ProPanel? How does it compare to "HardiBacker board."

Quote:
Originally Posted by PC7060
Re the stone tile, I recommend a Hi Def grade photo grade porcelain. Much cheaper and more robust versus real stone.
PC7060, would you use this on the shower floor as well as the walls?

Thanks everyone for your advice
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart
As a backer for the walls, I did mine with Propanel and it worked fine. No vapor barrier needed...
Just a note of clarification, no vapor barrier is ever needed for a regular shower. If it's to be a steam shower, that is a different issue.
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TileDisciple
would you use this on the shower floor as well as the walls?
Yes, the large format tile I used from Anatolia has a 0.72 wet coeficient of friction (COF) which is quite good. However I elected to use the 2"x2" format on the floor for maximum friction.

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I used Kerdiboard for my shower but it's quite expensive. I've not used the Propanel product but it sounds like a good product at a reasonable price.

I've not seen the product used much on the forum; this thread has some good info and opie (Ryan) just used it on his shower project, post a question on his thread to get his feedback.

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Old 09-28-2014, 06:18 PM   #10
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The ProPanel is compressed foam with a coating. The thin-set goes directly over the panel. I paid about $20 per 3X5 sheet. This product is waterproof at the surface whereas the concrete based backers do absorb water. Nice to be able to cut any openings and trim the sheet with a knife. Good info on their website.
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Old 09-29-2014, 06:53 AM   #11
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The Hardi requires a moisture barrier for shower install. not the vapor barrier I posted earlier. The ProPanel does not as it is waterproof.
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:52 PM   #12
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Thanks again. I'll consider all the advice that I've been given
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Old 09-30-2014, 03:04 PM   #13
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Sequence in bathroom remodel

1) I was thinking I would do my shower plumbing before I put in a new shower drain and subfloor. Is this the best order to follow?

2) I'm installing Sharkbite slipball valves in my crawlspace, and using Pex from the slipball valve to plumb my shower. My instructions for my Delta rough valve R10000-PX indicate that I should pressure check the system for leaks and then flush it when I'm done. I've called Delta to go over my instructions, so I think I'm OK. After I pressure check it, I'll flush it out of the bathtub port. Anything else I should know here?

3) The current shower drain is from the fiberglass shower stall. Do I need a new trap? Where do I cut this drainpipe? Should I cut it with a reciprocating saw?

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Old 09-30-2014, 03:34 PM   #14
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Those ball valves are expensive you could probably buy a crimp tool and crimp sleeves for less than the push fit valves.
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Old 09-30-2014, 04:21 PM   #15
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since you have a crawlspace I would examine the trap. It looks like you have pvc vent pipe so it may be in good condition.

On a properly supported pipe a recip saw would cut it but it is hard to keep straight. un supported the pipe will shake violently if the blade grabs. there are inside pipe cutters which would work like a dremel disk.

depending on your drain style would determin where to cut the pipe. a 3 piece drain may need a different pipe height than a kerdi drain, ect. the drain instructions should say.

There is a kerdi drain rough in guide in the liberry
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