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Old 09-13-2017, 08:17 AM   #76
Eric Woollen
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Moving on to grout. I have 2mm grout joints (not 1/8 or 1/16, actually 2mm). I would like to use a sanded grout as I understand these hold up better than unsanded. I found a couple of sanded grouts that appear to be suitable (i.e., small enough aggregate to fit the 2mm joint) but they are premium grouts and are rapid setting. Many reviews of these products indicate that a DIY should steer clear. Pro reviewers however say they are great products (namely: Mapei Ultracolor Plus and TEC Power Grout). Can anyone recommend a sanded grout that will work in a 2mm joint that is also easy to use? I've worked so hard this far and everything has turned out great (mostly thanks to this forum). I would hate to ruin everything with poor grout selection. Thanks!


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Old 09-13-2017, 09:14 AM   #77
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Cement based
Laticretes Permacolor or Permacolor Select
Bostiks Sanded Grout
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:01 PM   #78
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I like Custom's Prism grout. It says fast setting but I've never noticed it to set too fast. With small joints you'll want to make small batches, spread grout for about 5 minutes and start washing.
http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-128.pdf
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Old 09-20-2017, 01:08 PM   #79
Eric Woollen
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After a bit more research I'm suffering from paralysis. Everyone seems to have so much trouble with grout. Sets up to quickly. Doesn't set up at all. Color not right. Inconsistencies from one batch/lot to the next. One guy loves it and the next hates it. People can't follow directions. It goes on and on! Then there's epoxy grout. This miracle substance that needs no sealing, does not stain, color matches. But only if you dare to try it and risk screwing it up beyond repair. So I read the following thread and now I'm thinking maybe it could work for me?

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=35153

My shower floor and back of niche tiles are 3/4" square mosaic with 1/8" or smaller joints. My accent tiles are linear glass and stone with 1/16" joints. My field tile is 12x24 porcelain with 2mm joints. Everything this far has been easier and more successful than the horror stories led me to believe (namely self-leveling concrete). Maybe I'll be good at epoxy grout too and all is well in the universe. Anything about my install that says epoxy is a bad idea?

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Old 09-20-2017, 09:53 PM   #80
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Nice looking shower.

They don't recommend doing it but I pour the part A equally into several plastic cups, then I do the same with part B, then the powder, Part C. I then make smaller batches so I have time to get it all cleaned up. With small joints, if you mix a whole batch, it'll start setting up before you finish spreading what you mixed. Then you'll lose part of the batch if you aren't careful.
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:12 AM   #81
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Davy, you're doing that with the full units or the mini units? Using a scale or just eyeball? The unused cups can just sit uncovered no problem until you finish the first batch(es)? Thanks.


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Old 09-21-2017, 08:51 PM   #82
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I'm doing that with the full units. I found that buying the bigger units is a lot better deal. Then I just measure them out. I don't use a scale but that would be even better. I put lines on the outside of the cups and I can see the epoxy thru the plastic so I can get them pretty accurate. If I'm not mixing it all, I cover the top of the cup with duct tape until I'm ready to use it, usually only a day or so.
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Old 10-07-2017, 04:19 PM   #83
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Looking for a little advice on grout color. The shower field tiles are imitation carrera marble and the accent is white glass/stone. Is the right thing to have only one grout color? Or can the the accent grout be white and field tile grout be light grey?
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Right to left: sea glass, bright white, silver Shadow, slate grey, smoke grey. I'm leaning towards silver Shadow for field and accent tile but I'm not sure if anything other than white will work with the accent.

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Here is the shower floor and back of niche. Again, I'm leaning towards the silver Shadow. Thoughts?

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Finally here is the plank tile for the main bathroom floor. I'm thinking smoke grey will work best but I wish it were just a shade darker. Maybe slate gray is better?

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I know this forum doesn't stray much into aesthetics so any feedback is much appreciated.


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Old 10-08-2017, 11:09 AM   #84
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There is no technical reason not to use different colors of grout, or even different types of grout, in different areas of the project, Eric.

Most of us will never use the shower, so it matters not a whit what colors we might prefer. The color(s) Mrs. Eric likes, on the other hand...............

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-13-2017, 11:18 PM   #85
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South Florida Drop Down Shower

Thanks CX that's good advice for picking grout color and most other things in life too.

So I just finished dry laying the shower floor tile and let me tell you this was no easy task. It seems that despite the +$10/ft^2 price tag, this mosaic does not fit together real well in two dimensions. To make matters worse, the mesh has a little play in it so the whole sheet doesn't move together when you nudge it from one corner. I'm afraid the difficulty will be 10x when I introduce thinset to the mix tomorrow. I plan to pick up one row at a time starting from the back left; using the next row as a guide to laying it back down into the thinset exactly from where I picked it up, and so on. It was VERY difficult just doing the dry layout and getting all the spacing right. I think I will have only one shot because the mesh is water soluble and contact with thinset is likely to ruin it. Any pointers on dealing with this would be greatly appreciated. Fyi the individual tiles are 3/4" square and I'm using a 1/4x3/16 v-notch trowel. Wish me luck.

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Old 10-17-2017, 09:30 PM   #86
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So I ordered two full units of spectralock pro premium grout and feeling a bit jaded. I believe what happened here is some bright spark at floorlife.com figured out they could buy commercial units (which as you know contain 4 full units) then break them apart and make a bunch of money selling the individual full units, seeing as how they sell for almost 4x the price per unit. I'm a bit peeved but I guess I don't care so long as I got everything that would have been in the legit fill unit. Can anyone confirm that is the case by what you see here in the picture?

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Old 11-11-2017, 09:59 PM   #87
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I wrapped up the installation of the Spectralock epoxy grout in the floor and it exceeded my expectations on all counts. Thanks to everyone who posted in the dedicated spectralock thread.

I have a question on toilet plumbing. I'm coming around finally to installation of the toilet flange only to find out that the rough in drain pipe is way off plumb. I never thought to check it during the demo phase because why would I if there has been a toilet there for 20 years operating just fine? Please see the pics below and if anyone has some advice on how to proceed I would greatly appreciate it. I've come so far on this project and have had issues like this every step of the way. You guy's have been a tremendous help and I'm confident one of you will know just what to do here. Thanks!

I didn't mash it down all the way but this is just to demonstrate what I'm dealing with regarding the angle of the pipe. How did the previous toilet work?!



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Old 11-12-2017, 08:23 AM   #88
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Okay I pushed it all the way down and got a solid measurement of 5/16" out of level from one side to the other. Reading around on this topic I'm finding that I may be okay because the wax will take care of the difference. Thoughts anyone? Here are a couple of better pictures:




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Old 11-12-2017, 09:28 AM   #89
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Thoughts:

That jagged end of the pipe isn't right. Does it really fully engage the socket on your toilet flange? I'd be inclined to use an internal pipe cutter to cut off the pipe with a square edge. Then you have a few options, in no particular order:

1) If possible, cut off low enough to allow vertical space for a coupling. You can get a small amount of bend at the coupling, hopefully enough to straighten the riser.

2) Cut off the riser right above the elbow below it, and then use a "fitting saver" bit (e.g. rambit) to remove the pipe from the elbow socket. A bit risky and you'd need to go slow with the large size pipe. Again, hopefully you could get enough of a bend making up the new glue joint; or else you could prebend the new riser as below.

3) Use an electric heat gun to warm the pipe sufficiently for it to become slightly pliable, that could take a while. Using the toilet flange to provide leverage, bend the pipe until the flange is parallel to the floor. This assumes you have enough pipe length to engage the flange after making a square edge (or at least a squarer edge).

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 11-12-2017, 11:13 AM   #90
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It it were me, I wouldn't touch it and just get a good reinforced wax ring. You can get an extra thick wax ring but that's more for a flange that is too low.

When I had a low flange that I was worried about I placed some 1/8" shims around the edge of where the toilet sits, then I placed the extra thick wax ring and set the toilet down against shims. I pulled the toilet up and the wax ring stuck to the toilet and I could see that it compressed enough to form a seal. I removed shims and installed toilet, confident that it would not leak.
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