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Old 09-13-2017, 09:37 AM   #406
t2jeff
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These are glazed ceramic tile. No issues there....I will give the blade thing a shot. I assume the mineral spirits are to just clean up the gunk and does nothing for breaking down the actual silicone, right?

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Old 09-13-2017, 11:09 AM   #407
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This the tub/shower you did only a couple years ago, Jeff?
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:43 PM   #408
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@CX,

Yes it is. For some reason the silicone is pulling away from the tile. It's leaving a hairline gap between the two materials. Not sure why.

I used Color-sil from Colorite.
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:54 PM   #409
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Quick note, the guys mentioned alcohol, not mineral spirits.
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Old 09-13-2017, 05:01 PM   #410
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I use a razor blade to get the majority of it. I've had good success with a stiff bristled brush and the silicone caulk removers that you'll find at the box store. Lift off works well but there's other brands also.
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:21 AM   #411
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Thanks for the tips guys.....

Here is what's happening....not sure why. Its "sanded" Color Sil....
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:38 AM   #412
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I combined you with the original thread for this project, Jeff, so folks could see what you're working on.

Those separations from the tile edges almost certainly mean the silicone caulking was never actually bonded to those edges. Pretty common without the use of a backer rod in the gaps.

The tub/tile joint also might indicate movement of the tub, which is perfectly normal and the reason the flexible sealant is to be used in that joint. But if the sealant is not properly bonded to both surfaces it cannot compensate for such movement as is its intended function.

The "problem" is purely cosmetic and if you can live with it I would just leave it alone. You can, of course, remove and replace if it bothers you.

I don't favor having that tub/tile joint completely sealed anyway, but the industry standards call for a flexible sealant at that joint.

DaveM:

Ol' Tonto first mentioned the mineral spirits in post #405. I've personally never found mineral spirits to do any good in removing cured silicone. Nor any other chemical, for that matter. I've had my best luck with a dry cloth and elbow grease after the majority of the material has been cut out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldstein
I will remove the remaining silicone with mineral spirits and a non-scratching scrubbing pad (white non woven pads).
My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:32 AM   #413
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CX, could you elaborate on your comment about using backer rod in the joints? It seems like a sensible idea, but often isn't mentioned in tiling or caulking how-to's. Any further thoughts about when you should and shouldn't use it, sizing best practices, etc? Thanks!

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Old 09-14-2017, 01:18 PM   #414
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I did consider the tub moving, but since there are other areas outside the tub perimeter, I would have to agree with the silicone need ever being bonded properly.

I thought I would redo the silicone as too prevent gunk and mold from growing in the gap.

FYI...for scale those grout lines are 1/16" and the silicone just a click more.
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Old 09-14-2017, 08:50 PM   #415
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Here is the optimum way to install any sort of caulking or flexible sealant and what you really want in your installation. Not always the easiest method, but always the correct method.

On the smaller joints more commonly found in tile work, the depth and width of the joint can be equal.

Name:  Caulking Bead.jpg
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My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-05-2017, 12:48 PM   #416
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Silicone Removal

I finally got around to removing my old silicone between my tub and wall tile (see posting above). I noticed there was a little mold on the removed silicone bead as well as inside the gap.

Should I use some bleach and a brush and scrub out the gap before I replace the silicone? I'm not sure if the bleach or other cleaning products harm the materials which are kerdiboard, kerdifix, versabond, and the tile.

Please advise......
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:53 PM   #417
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I don't think it's going to damage those materials. Even if it were harmful to them it's not like you're pouring it on straight and saturating it.
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Old 12-05-2017, 05:50 PM   #418
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Is it even worth the time to try and remove the mold inside the gap? Any drawbacks to just sealing over it with a new bead of silicone?
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:42 PM   #419
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If you use 100% silicone, you should be ok if there i no latex showing.
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:19 PM   #420
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The old bead was 100% silicone (colorite) and plan on using the same for the new bead....

I assume the mold came from the water and foreign stuff that got inside the gap.
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