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Old 08-30-2017, 04:41 PM   #31
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As I generally do these days, I very strongly recommend you purchase a Bucket Mortar Mixer and do all your mixing of dry material in 5-gallon buckets and stage them in your work area where you can add pre-measured water and do your final mixing as you work. Works very well when working alone.

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Old 08-30-2017, 06:08 PM   #32
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$76.00 for that bucket mixer thingie. You could buy a small roll plastic sheathing and 2 sheets of 1/2 plywood cheaper than that to keep the floor clean and you can always use the plywood for something else. Blend about half of what you think you need dry and then add h20 to a wet sand consistensey where a baseball hunk stays together but not to wet. Make your perimeter screeds and middle screed, fill and pack mud and screed off.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:11 PM   #33
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Good idea. I have 10 5 gal. Buckets ready to go. The mixer is quite expensive for one time use thou. Any other suggestions?
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:13 PM   #34
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Mark, your saying blend two separate batches one for the perimeter and one for the fill in?
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:30 PM   #35
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Lou

Once you get your screeds in place the work will go fairly quick. So maybe mix 1/3 to make the screeds and whatever you can do. Then mix the rest and finish. Try to remember to slick down the mud with a steel flat trowel about every 30" or not farther than you can reach. I have been known to SLIGHTLY mist like from a spray bottle on fine mist the mud prior to slicking with trowel.

I also like to skim the the next day esp. if it is going to be walked on much. MIx a little thinset just a little bit loose like real creamy but not so loose it runs off your trowel. Apply a section fairly thin with the flat side of the trowel. Use a little downward force and then skim off all the extra by holding the trowel at a high angle.It should basicly just fill all the roughness.
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:51 PM   #36
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If you ship me that mixer when you're done with it, Lou, I'll give you fifty bucks for it.
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Old 08-31-2017, 02:30 AM   #37
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Mark, thanks for the tribal knowledge. Its nice to know some tricks of the trade. I like the idea of the separate batches. That would make things a lots easier. For screeds I was going to use two pieces of 3/4" conduit the length of the room.

CX not a bad offer.
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Old 08-31-2017, 12:28 PM   #38
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when you set those 2 screeds it is very important to get them(shim) in plane with each other.This will determine how flat your floor will be and you want it very flat.You should be able to take a straight edge that goes across both screeds and pull it all the way with the straight edge making contact with the screeds.Good idea to do this before mixing your mud.
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Old 08-31-2017, 02:35 PM   #39
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Is it better to Inbed the conduit into the mortar forming two rows or somehow shim the conduit on the lath with no mortar and then add mortar?
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:14 AM   #40
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Do you guys usually overlap the cleavage membrane and metal lath a few inches over themselves when you lay them down?

Looks like lowes has Galvanized Steel Stucco Netting which I'm assuming is metal lath. Would that be acceptable?

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Old 09-12-2017, 04:55 PM   #41
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You really want 2.5 pound metal lath, Lou. That stucco netting in my experience is lighter than that. You can use it on your floor if you wanna, of course.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-12-2017, 06:51 PM   #42
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Any idea were to buy the right stuff. I have daltile and a few other large tile suppliers within a few miles but they don't sell to the public only to contractors? Anyway around that?
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:36 PM   #43
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Home Depot usually carries the 2.5lb lath, Lou. on the end of the store with the concrete supplies.
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