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Old 03-15-2018, 10:21 AM   #1
chrsdrshm
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Shower Door Reinforcement.

I am in the process of a shower build, replacing a fiberglass shower insert with a full tile shower. This is not my first time doing this but have a questions on Shower door support. My plan is to do a swinging door vs a sliding door, however after tile is completed it could be either.

Since i have the walls/studs exposed i am curious what would make the most sense to reinforce where either the door hinges and top rail for the sliding door would hang from.

Can i i just run a few 2x4's horizontally between the existing 2x4's or do i need to run them vertically? One side has a light switch and i don't want to move that. If i did a swinging door the hinges would be on the opposite side of the light switch. Below are some pictures. I will get better pictures this evening.

Pictures of opening
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Old 03-15-2018, 10:48 AM   #2
Mister Quint
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Will the new shower have the same footprint? Doesn't look like the light switch is an issue if it will.

Horizontal blocking between the existing studs would be fine for a hinged door. But since you don't have the door yet, and don't have measurements for hinge spacing or placement, you're probably better off adding additional full length vertical blocking.

Personally, I'd want the door specs first, but putting up a full length 2x4 perpendicular to the existing stud would give you flexibility down the line, and screwing them together would give you plenty of rigidity for a heavy glass door.
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Old 03-15-2018, 11:32 AM   #3
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What Doug said.

The hinge bracket is pretty wide. 2 screws on both the inside and outside and they will be at least an inch apart side to side. 2X's are only 1.5 inches wide so, even if you did manage to get all 4 into the stud, they won't be biting into much. And a 3/8" glass door is heavy.

If you are confidant with your measurements I'd install another stud against the existing, screwed to the existing, and screwed into the top and bottom plates. While you're at it, screw the existing stud to the top and bottom plates. If you're unsure of your measurements add a 3rd stud to the other side of the existing. Very, very cheap insurance.
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Old 03-15-2018, 01:16 PM   #4
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It will be larger than the original foot print. when i laid out the design the curb will line up perfectly with the light switch

Can i do something like this Terrible Illustration?

What if i put the hinges on the opposite side of the light switch? If i know where my curb will be, then i know where my door will be so if i have a solid area that is 4 inches wide and 7 ft tall, i should be good?

I don't have to run the 2x4 to the header do i? i will be tiling up 7ft the header prob sits another 2 or 3 foot higher.
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Old 03-15-2018, 02:59 PM   #5
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By "the curb will line up perfectly with the light switch" do you mean the light switch will be in line with the curb? Or that it will clear the curb?

Also, unsure why you need a header?
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Old 03-15-2018, 03:01 PM   #6
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Yes Sir, it will be inline with the Curb
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Old 03-15-2018, 03:20 PM   #7
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Aha. I thought the switch was facing the shower area, but it's facing the entry. Doesn't look like a problem. Your diagram looks sort of fine except for the notch in the stud where your cable feeds through - you have to block around that too. Neither the notch nor the switch look like they'd be close to a shower door hinge, so a gap in the blocking shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 03-16-2018, 08:52 AM   #8
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Chris,

If the door will be the full width of the shower opening it is going to be a heavy door. If you are confidant that the single stud is firmly attached to the top and bottom plates then go for it. Trouble is, I don't see how you can confirm the top plate connection. It won't matter if you add studs to the existing if you don't run them all the way to the top plate, all the weight of the door will rest on that single stud and whatever mechanical connection it has to the top and bottom plates. You might also ensure the bottom (sole) plate is solidly connected to the slab.

I do see another potential challenge. If the door is full width it is going to run afoul of those columns if the sides of the columns stick out past the finished wall - as they currently appear to in the photos, especially the bottom trim of them.
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Old 03-22-2018, 03:50 PM   #9
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Frustrated and Venting....


So really came to vent and maybe a little guidance... this is not my first tiling job but i would still consider myself an amateur. Have been working on tiling my master bathroom shower, it was a fiberglass insert, and will be tiled, everything has been going great, backer board up, shower pan in done, waterproofed.... Then comes the tiling... i made it about 3 rows up and ended up pulling it all off...i just wasn't happy with how thing were going.

I am putting up 9 x 12 tiles, got my spacing all figured out along with where to start, i just was not comfortable with the mounting/thin set job. There was plenty of coverage, would definitely say 95%, i just did not like they way the tiles were laying, to be honest it felt like i was using too much thin set, or the thin set was still to thin... it had the consistency of creamy peanut butter... i was using a 1/4 x 3/8 x 1/4 square notched trowel, i was back-buttering....maybe that was part of my issue....the tiles just felt like they had too much side to side/up down movement.

I mixed two different batches of modified thinset this was going over aqua defense waterproofing.

can i just do the back of the tile and put on the wall or do i need to do both?

I know i haven't given much info, and i am going to take a day or two and not work on it..i will do my best to answer any questions. ..i do feel a little better getting this out

I will take any helpful thoughts, ideas, criticism...
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Old 03-22-2018, 05:03 PM   #10
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Thinset needs to be forcibly keyed onto the back of the tile or the wall and you may comb your thinset onto either.
I guess I don't understand what you mean by too easy to slide. The tiles need to be moved side to side to help collapse the thinset ridges underneath.
I don't know how much thinset you are using to backbutter but try just burning a thin amount onto the back.
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:12 PM   #11
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What Ryan said. You just need thinset notches on one or the other. The other surface just needs a skim coat with the flat side of the trowel.

Sometimes it's best to step away for a day or two. Re-group and hit it again.
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:12 PM   #12
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When I skim the back of a tile, the trowel is dragging on the tile, leaving a thin layer embedded in the recesses.

Likewise, when you comb out mortar the teeth should be dragging the surface, leaving only the notches with nothing in between.
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Old 03-22-2018, 07:56 PM   #13
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Depending on the thinset and the tile, when you burn in a coat on the back of the tile...it may take some pressure. If it's done right, the only way to get it off would be to wash it off and it would cover the entire back leaving a thin, even coat all over filling in any waffles or depressions so the back is essentially flat.

Some thinsets are designed so that the tile doesn't sag. You may prefer one of those. A leveling system will clamp the tile together, helping as well while keeping the edges all aligned in one plane.
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