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Old 01-22-2006, 10:47 PM   #1
Norter79
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Kitchen/Tile Floor Prep

I just bought my first house and I'm attempting to remodel my kitchen...

The floor is currently asbestos tile which i'm having removed, not sure what's underneath yet.

I've got a very little experience doing any prep work for tile(underlayments, etc) and was wondering what needed to be done aside from leveling the floor..

Any help would be appreciated...
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Old 01-22-2006, 11:29 PM   #2
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Hello

The first step is to identify what is underneath.

When you establish that, come on back and we will coach you through it.
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Old 01-23-2006, 05:18 PM   #3
Norter79
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Thanks John,

the old tile is up.. all that is left is plywood subfloor and black adheasive that almost looks like roofing tar...

how should i prepare for ceramic tile?

Stew

Last edited by Norter79; 01-23-2006 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 01-23-2006, 06:37 PM   #4
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anyone?
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Old 01-23-2006, 06:44 PM   #5
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You'll need to scrape most of that adhesive off. You also need to know how thick the subfloor is, whether it is plywood, planks, etc, how deep the floor joists are, how far apart they are spaced, and how long the longest unsupported length is. In order to determine whether your floor can support tile, this info is important. Then we can figure out what needs to be done for a successful install.
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Old 01-23-2006, 07:06 PM   #6
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what's the best way to remove the adhesive?

the subfloor is plywood. how can i determine how thick it is?

the joists are 16" on center and they're 2x10s.

they run the 9'3" length of the room, it's 8'6"x9'3"(galley kitchen).
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Old 01-23-2006, 07:17 PM   #7
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Unless there is a room underneath, the size of the room is not likely the length of the joists. The area you are tiling doesn't matter, it is the length of the joists, which may include more than one room (unless this is a bumpout, and the joists cross it).

Have you got a heater duct or a pipe coming through the floor you can look at and maybe measure? You can also drill a small hole in an out of the way place to measure. If you have a small hole-saw, you can use that. It will let you look at the various layers.

You might find out that all of that adhesive is installed on 1/4" luan plywood. If so, then forget about scraping it up, you'll need to remove that plywood - it is death to tile.
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Old 01-23-2006, 07:29 PM   #8
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thanks jad,

I'll take a small whole saw to it tomorrow to figure it out..

the joists run the entire width of the house...roughly 20'.. it's actually a duplex so the kitchen i'm looking at is on the second floor.. the wall on one side is an exterior wall and the interior wall at the end of the 9'3 is a load bearing wall. i don't know if that makes a difference or not.

can i just put another layer of plywood down without removing the old stuff?
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Old 01-23-2006, 07:34 PM   #9
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Probably if the height doesn't matter...but, I'd let one of the pros chime in. Somewhat depends on how smooth the floor is. You don't want the new plywood to squeak (deflect) if there is a buildup under it and it can't lay perfectly flat. And yes, a load bearing wall determines the unsupported length.
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Old 01-23-2006, 07:52 PM   #10
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thanks again jim

i don't really think the height matters...to me anyway.
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Old 01-24-2006, 04:19 AM   #11
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Not So Fast With The Scraping

Norter.

DO NOT SCRAPE OFF THE BLACK ADHESIVE. It may very well have asbestos in it, also. You need to have it tested it before scraping.

I know you said you are considering putting down a new layer of ply on top of it, but I wanted to grab your attention before you possibly proceeded with scraping. Adding a layer of ply is one of the most common courses of action with asbestos (if that's actually what you have). Perfectly acceptable.

By the way, welcome to the site.
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Old 01-24-2006, 10:51 AM   #12
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toolguy,

thanks.

the plywood on the floor is currently 5/8" thick.. how thick do i need to make it in order to support tile? do i need to put anything on top of the plywood or can i just put the tile on that?
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Old 01-24-2006, 12:06 PM   #13
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I suggest you install a layer of 1/2" plywood, then Ditra, a decoupling membrane from the Schluter company. 5/8" is the minimum subfloor that anybody will stand behind, but yours will be damaged from the demolition and prep, so I wouldn't count on it being an effective 5/8". Adding 1/2" more will give you an effective 1" of plywood, and that's pretty good by anyone's standards. The Ditra will be thinner than backerboard, so it saves you some of the height that the new plywood takes up.
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