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Old 02-16-2018, 02:16 PM   #61
gyouska
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I am tearing it out what do you guys recommend for taking the cement board off of the plywood. It has been stuck down using thinset and it is coming off horribly. We are chiseling and using a hammer drill is there a better way?
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:31 PM   #62
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I am tearing it out what do you guys recommend for taking the cement board off of the plywood. It has been stuck down using thinset and it is coming off horribly. We are chiseling and using a hammer drill is there a better way?
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Old 02-16-2018, 04:51 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve
We are chiseling and using a hammer drill is there a better way?
Welcome to our world. Unfortunately no.
You might want to score it into say 1'x1' sections and it might come out a bit easier.
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Old 02-16-2018, 05:19 PM   #64
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Just going to town with putty knifes. The worst part is just trying to get the leftover cement board off. Idk what they used to stick it. Seems like the thinset that was used is the consistency of Liquid nail.
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Old 02-16-2018, 09:47 PM   #65
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ok so I was not able to remove all of the remnant of cement board. will be doing more on monday. some of the areas are really stuck on there. they are taking some decent chunks out of the 3/4 T&G sub floor. Check out the pictures I posted and let me know what you guys think. what do I need to do to this floor before I install the ditra underlayment. I am sure there is some bag of shit to use to fill the sub floor before the underlayment right? any knowledge is much appreciated. I have until monday to come up with a good game plan. Also I layed my level on the floor and there are some concerning spots maybe they are not that bad I will let you guys give your input. do I need to use some kind of self leveling stuff? If so, Do I need to waste the rest of my time removing the remaining cement board or will the self leveler hopefully fill that up. check out the photos of my level and let me know what you think. there is one spot where two pieces of subfloor meet and one piece is an 1/8th inch higher that the other. What do I need to do to make this install go smooth. The tiles I am installing turned out to be 8x42
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Old 02-16-2018, 09:55 PM   #66
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Ditra same thickness as 1/4 cement board?

like the description says. I tore out some tile I have an area that has some wood trim on the steps I am hoping to make the new tile floor turn out flush with the wood trim surface. the previous tile floor that was torn out was installed with 1/4 cement board. I will be installing ditra underlayment then using 1/2 x 1/2 square knotched trowel and my tiles are usual thickness 1/4 inch give or take. Will the ditra end up the same thickness as using 1/4 cement board?
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:00 PM   #67
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Ditra XL is usually used to end up flush with hardwood. Regular ditra is only about an 1/8"
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:05 PM   #68
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so you are saying worst case scenario I will be 1/8th lower most likely? since the ditra is usually 1/8th and the previous underlayment was 1/4?
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:16 PM   #69
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here are the photos of my level.
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:19 PM   #70
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why do my posts keep getting consolidated! >
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:24 PM   #71
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As pointed out earlier, Steve, we like to keep all the project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.
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there is one spot where two pieces of subfloor meet and one piece is an 1/8th inch higher that the other. What do I need to do to make this install go smooth.
The tile industry standard recommendation is that the difference in height between those two sheets of subflooring be no greater than 1/32nd of an inch. And since you have OSB instead of plywood, I would fear that one of those sheets might have gotten damp somewhere along the line and has swollen a bit. Could that be the case?

And with the large format tiles you intend to use the standard for flatness of your substrate needs to be no deviation from intended plane of more than 1/8th" in ten feet nor 1/16th" in two feet. That's a very, very flat floor and about the only two realistic ways to achieve it is to use deck mud or a self leveling compound. Tough standard to meet, but you'll be happy to have the flatness when you start installing those long tiles.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:28 PM   #72
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I am having a hard time keeping track of all my questions and answers. the whole post starts to become a bunch of nonsense.
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:32 PM   #73
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Even more difficult for those of us out here when the Q&A isn't at least all in one place, Steve.
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:36 PM   #74
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Back to one of your earlier questions about modified mortars...the cement in them will cure at about the same rate with both a modified and unmodified, but the modifiers that essentially coat all of the cement particles (and aggregate) when mixed properly must dry (if that modifier is latex based) to provide full strength. A latex based modified thinset between Ditra and an essentially impervious porcelain tile, as stated, can take literally months to dry, allowing the tile to move slightly, fracturing the cement bond in the worst case.

There are modifiers that do not need to dry to become stable, and Schluter makes one. There are others, but since Schluter doesn't control them, they could change their configuration, and one that might have worked may no longer, so they do not recommend it. If you key the mortar into the back of the tile properly, the unmodified's bond to it will be at least 250psi in shear strength, so you won't likely break that bond. The thinset does not stick to Ditra, it is held in place mechanically by the shape of the 'holes' (they're dovetails). That pillar of thinset also holds it up by providing support to the substrate underneath.

Since thinset doesn't stick to Ditra, if you snap a chalk line on it (the caulk won't stick, either!), to hold it in place, some hair spray will keep it in place and have no effect on the bond since there isn't one.

Some people prefill the mat so they have a smooth surface, but it's not necessary, but is certainly allowed.

You need to get your floor as flat as possible, and then, it still may take some extra work and products to get it where it should be. Any errors will make setting your tile much harder to achieve a good, flat surface.
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:51 PM   #75
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Awesome info! Unfortunately I think I am one step ahead of you on those answers tho. I have seens learned alot since my earlier posts. I understand the difference between thin sets and how ditra works. my next issue is basically how do I go about prepping this floor before the ditra? I have the photos with my level. I know its hard to perceive it from pictures. my level is almost 5 ft. there is atleast one are where the level is teetering on a high point in the center at either end of the level I have 1/8th inch. moved along the floor with my level. as can be seen in the photos I have some areas where across my 5 ft level I have low spots in the center of an 1/8th of an inch. I am installing long tiles. I cant remember they are between 42 and 48 inches. are these areas in the floor out of tolerance? Do I need to do something to make the surface flat or is 1/8th inch within reason? if not what do I need to do? also I have areas in the ply wood subfloor where there are some divits. not bad, but the worst is probably 3/16 deep. some areas where sledge hammer blows were a little to rough. those areas are maybe up to a 1/4 inch deep maybe more. what do I need to do to prep this floor? Do I need to remove the remaining cement board stuck to the floor or is there a method to avoid this? Pros and Cons?
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