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Old 02-13-2018, 12:42 AM   #76
GHR
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Question

I ended up caulking 2x after first try was a failure and still tacky next morning. Tried 2nd time and removed tape immediately which still pulled caulk out of the spaces but was salvageable and I let it set over night again. Got the tile and backsplash done last week including grouting.


Now, I'm ready to set the sink and have run into a new issue:

I cut the new sink opening centered front to back and left to right in the countertop and tiled accordingly. However I just discovered the original sink drain was in the middle, but the new drain is set further back toward the wall. I cannot align the old trap with the pipe to the sink.

The whole trap assembly is too far out from the wall.

I tried to take a photo with the sink in place, but the flash would not fire on my phone no matter the low light. For now I took one from above with the sink removed. That is grey PVC not ABS, BTW.

Ideas or advice on what to do?

I had a plumber replace the stops. I wish I knew about this I could have
had it corrected back then. For now I might not be able to hire him
since he is busy and does side jobs.

If I cut off that first fitting and pipe all of that anew what do I do to make that
pipe clean for PVC glue?

It looks like it's covered in drywall mud and paint over spray. It's at least 40yrs old.
From experience with this before on my floor it is water insoluble if it's same mud as was on my concrete floor and elsewhere.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:06 AM   #77
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You could use one of these until you can get your plumber back to redo the drain piping.
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:12 AM   #78
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Thumbs up

I have one of those on my upstairs master bathroom. I really need to get a pic of the sink place. I'm not sure even that accordion would work here. I will try it though.

Thanks.
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Old 02-17-2018, 02:24 PM   #79
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Got the accordion piece, but it's a no-go. I just tried dry fit...

The tail from the sink is right up next to the 45 degree bend. Photo.

Even though I set the sink centered in the vanity top seems I really off set
this new sink opening from the original. The old drain will not line up no matter what.


So, I know have to cut off that 45 degree coupling and glue in a new PVC trap in there.
I think I could do that myself. But that is tight quarters to remove it.

What would I use to cut it out with. Not sure my reciprocating saw would even fit.
Dremel tool *might* ,but still gonna be a knuckle buster. I don't even thing I can get a cable
saw in there and besides I only have maybe 2" of stub so I need to cut it off right behind that fitting.


Other than adding a new trap anything else I need to do?
Is there a trick to making sure I have it all lined up correctly?
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Old 02-17-2018, 02:41 PM   #80
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I'm not a fan of the accordion tail piece as a long term solution, but you could cut the tubular brass tail piece shorter (or get a shorter one). Then rotate the trap to get as close as possible to the sink tail piece and use the accordion tail piece.

Removing the 45 and rebuilding the trap is a better solution. Why couldn't you get a cable saw in there and ride it against the 45 hub as you cut through the stub from the wall? Remember to debur each piece of pipe, including the stub from the wall, as you glue up the new assembly.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 02-17-2018, 04:21 PM   #81
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Question

The angle of that last photo did not show how close the tail is to the elbow on the trap. See this photo. It's literally touching the compression nut.

I have to cut the whole thing out to the wall.
I just cannot get most of my tools in there.

A cable saw may work will be a real knuckle buster and I'm not sure
I can get a straight pull on it. The cut will be horrendous and probably crooked.

That sounds like the only option. ?

*Sorry about the photo. Forum keeps rotating it.*
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Old 02-17-2018, 11:14 PM   #82
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Not that I'm a fan of the accordion, but it still looks like you could cut the tail piece maybe 4" shorter (does it have a sink stopper mechanism built in?), rotate the trap 180 degrees, and make the accordion work.

On cutting off the 45 degree fitting, one option is to make a rough cut first, maybe in the middle of the 45 hub or at the outbound edge of the hub. Doesn't have to be pretty, could be done with a reciprocating saw or an oscillating saw, just don't stray past the hub. Then you could use an internal pipe cutter to cleanly cut the pipe just past the inbound edge of the hub. That would allow an axial approach for the final cut, so the supply stops are not in your way.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 02-18-2018, 05:06 PM   #83
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I got a 1/2-1/4" trap adapter and correct coupling for the pipe.

I tried to cut off the coupling using the original fitting lip as a guide using my
vari-speed reciprocator saw and a fine tooth blade rated for PVC and thin metal.

The spacing as I anticipated was limited. Much to my dismay, the cut while
straight at the beginning was angled and crooked at the end. I thought I cut slowly but...

I got a PVC hand saw in there with a piece of tape and cleaned up the first cut finding it too was angled and not square. I keep hitting my wrist on the edge of
the sink opening (thankfully I filed the sharp tiles off) making me twist too much.

I used the new coupling as a guide and I made a circle on the pipe.

Man I sincerely wish I'd've found this waste needed to be moved before I tiled. Would have been so much easier with the top removed.

Ideas for cutting this pipe square in limited space? Put the coupling on and use it as a guide and possible throw away? I had 2-1/2" of pipe before I cut the original assembly off. So I have probably 2-1/4" left. I have to make one square cut.


*edit*

Got it cut off squarely by making a mark around the pipe using the new fitting and then blue tape as a guide. The PVC saw I bought ages ago bit right through and I was able to go really slow and even get it underneath the bottom near the end to keep the cut square and even.

Now, I found what I thought was glue+primer is not and my can of purple primer is dried up.
So I have to wait until tomorrow to finish this up.

*edit edit*
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:05 PM   #84
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Question Rubber seal on tail of sink will not sit flush with sink

I got the plumbing all done a couple of weeks ago, but the drain is still
vexing me.

The drain was leaking under the rubber gasket that goes around the tail pipe.

The seal is not pushing flush with the sink for some reason no matter
how tight I try to make the nut. Water was seeping under the rubber ring.

I posted a question on Terry Love's forum too. Hopefully someone has an idea what I need to try next.
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Old 03-16-2018, 05:53 PM   #85
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Usually there's a cavity just above that washer captures the water from the overflow. Often there's a little water that stands there because the holes in drain pipe are higher than bottom of cavity. It wouldn't really matter except there's a leak potential as you've discovered.

Anyway, long story short, I'm guessing the water is spiraling down the threads on drain assembly. Not only is the washer expected to seal against sink, it's assumed that it will squash laterally into threads and seal said threads. It often doesn't.

My fix is the smear a little silicone caulk on the threads before running the nut up. Works every time and I test all sinks for complete function...even the overflow.
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Old 03-21-2018, 02:54 PM   #86
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Smile

Thanks.

I got it fixed. Got a new pair of channel locks which are big enough to go around that nut properly and gave it three more turns than I could before.
Forced the washer up into the hole and filled the sink. No more leak.

Now I need a new aerator and handles and I'm good to go.
Bought a ~$8 faucet a year ago, but did not realize it had apparently been
used and returned. Probably by switcheroo for same item and nobody noticed.

Calcium deposit all over the aerator so only a small strip of water comes out and one handle was busted off internally. Normally I can take an aerator apart and clean it until a new one can be bought but this one has the internal screen unable to be removed for cleaning. Poorly designed.

*edit* it was cheaper in the end for a new complete faucet. Filled sink and checking for leaking or seepage around the stopper.
20 minutes so far so good. *end edit*

Finally this lav is usable. Only took me a year since old faucet began leaking to get this done.
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