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Old 05-10-2013, 08:36 AM   #946
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Excellent.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:53 AM   #947
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First I explored whether I could remove the toilet flange: it is secured to the top of the floor by 2 bolts. It is black and ABS and has been there for 20 years. I was able to remove one screw quite easily , but the other just rotated and rotated. One part of the edge of the flange broke off.

It seems the flange needs to be removed and that is a job for a plumber. It is I think glued in place. Now access could be a problem, since I have laid cement board around the flange. A section of that CBU may have to be removed to make space for the plumber.

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Old 05-12-2013, 12:40 PM   #948
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Emil, you'll have to check with a plumber but I think they can remove the flange without tearing up the floor. If so, you could probably tile the floor and hire a plumber after everything is done. The plumber could remove and replace the flange, set it at the correct height, and install the toilet in one trip.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:52 PM   #949
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If it is ABS it would be been glued in so removing the bolts will not help removing it - it will probably need to be cut out.

If you have a 4" drain you can get flanges that fit inside a 4" drain pipe which means you don't have to worry about removing the old one and you can set the new one on top of the tile once you are done tiling. I'm currently doing that on my bathroom remodel project. I had to go to a pluming supply house to find a good quality flange for this. HD does have a cheap plastic one that should work also.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:25 PM   #950
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The intrinsic problem I have is that the hole for the toilet drain is too large so that there is a limited amount of plywood to secure the screw through the PVC extender and ABS flange.

So what I am trying is sliding pieces of wood 1/8" by 2"below the ABS drain at the screw holes and sticking them onto the plywood with Gorilla polyurethane glue. There is the need for a new product like a wooden collar to glue on to the floor to solve this problem.

Then I will try again to see what I get: I am looking to get the extender well fixed to the ABS flange. I almost had the first time, but I screwed one a little too hard and split the PVC.

I may decide to get a plumber and have him look at it.


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Old 05-15-2013, 08:07 AM   #951
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Thanks for above remarks and advice: here is what I did. I cut some pieces of wood to size and shape ~1/8" thick and slid them under the black ABS drain below the screw holes in the ABS drain. I glued these pieces to the floor plywood with Gorilla polyurethane glue. These small pieces of wood protrude inwards to proved more area to take the screws. {Remember the original hole for the toilet drain was cut too large.

I placed the PVC extender on top with the holes above the ABS holes. I drove the screws through the hole in the extender {and the hole in the ABS drain} into the pieces of wood. It is as solid as a rock now and level.

When the wax is applied it will smear over the outside part of the rim and of course the inside part of the rim.

In my case there is a good rubber gasket (1/8") on the flange extender that mates with the black ABS flange. So applied a bed of caulk to this gasket and also on the surface of the ABS flange.


So I do not think it will leak. I discussed this problem with a plumber at Lowe's and he told me that often the original holes cut for such toilet drains are often cut too big.

I think I have the simple solution i.e. cut pieces of wood to shape and attach to the floor under the screw holes.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:03 AM   #952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emil
I think I have the simple solution i.e. cut pieces of wood to shape and attach to the floor under the screw holes.
If you have access under the floor, you can add blocking up under the plywood too.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:24 AM   #953
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Dana: I do not have access under the floor. What I have right now is very stable.

I am now focusing on tiling the bathroom floor: I need a plan fro tiling a floor so that it is level.

I have done a dry lay of the tile arrangement on the floor and I am cutting them to size. This aspect of the plan is fine, but I need a plan for laying them so that they are all at the same level.

I wonder if we have a post on that.

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Old 05-17-2013, 10:10 AM   #954
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Hi Emil, I am not a pro but I believe you'll want the floor flat(does not have to be level)before you cut and lay tile.I have used LASH clips with very good results.They help to hold the edges of the tiles even. I also use a Tile Puck and level to keep things flat.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:22 PM   #955
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It's never easy, Emil. You'll need to check the floor and try to figure out where the high and low spots are. Try to flatten it out the best you can. Self-leveler can work well for this but you can create high spots with self leveler if you are not careful.

Even still, it will be difficult to get everything perfectly flat. The LASH leveling system may work well for you as it's easily available and I don't think has a lot of up front costs.
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:34 AM   #956
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Thanks for above useful comments: here is what I did. At the hole cavity in the plywood I glued pieces of wood with Gorilla polyurethane prodcut to provide the anchor site for the toilet flange extender. So screwed through the flange extender into the wood to secure the flange in place.

Subsequently I have tiled the bathroom floor and used a small block of marble like a puck to assist getting the tiles level.

I have fixed the toilet in place now and tightened the bolts. I used the usual thickness of wax ring.... So far I do not see any problem with water when flushing the toilet.

I will post photos after I have fixed the bathroom sink in place.

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Old 10-26-2013, 11:47 AM   #957
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I have tiled the floor and painted the walls
(pale green)so here is where we are today.

I show the shower and shelves in the shower and the acccess panel below the sink.
Attached Images
   
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Old 10-26-2013, 04:57 PM   #958
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Well done.

We were starting to wonder if you'd left us.
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:44 AM   #959
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No: I am a weekend warrior and I have been indisposed to continue this work of mate, since my job is getting in the way.

One of the most difficult parts was to lay the concrete preslope and then the floor of the shower pan itself.

Screeding is described, but I would like to see a video of that: it seems to me it is a skill or an art and needs experience to do well. This type of work is not easy to do; it is a skill.

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Old 10-27-2013, 02:15 PM   #960
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Congratulations Emil!

The color scheme looks good and best of all- it's finished!

So... when's the next project?
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