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Old 03-20-2017, 10:19 PM   #16
pecymanski
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CX,

The whole caulking thing has me confused because it does not seem logical to follow what everyone says to do. I agree with what you are saying on not putting caulk between CBU/Tub as well as Tile/Tub.

It seems all the caulk is doing is closing up the path of least resistance for any water that would get behind the CBU.

The ideal solution seems like:
1. No caulk between CBU and Tub
2. No caulk between Tile and Tub
3. The gap between first row of tile and tun would be minimal, 1/16 to 1/8.

Unless you were really trying, should not get any water up there. Water does not want to go up (Unless thru capillary action) and it would be able to dry out.

But like you mentioned, everywhere you look it says to caulk between tub and tiles. I came across only one other source which mentioned the weep holes. This was in the case you were using a vapor barrier behind instead of a liquid water proofing.

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:27 AM   #17
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I don't think it matters much if you're using a vapor barrier or liquid waterproofing, you still need to leave a place for any moisture that gets behind the tile to escape. That being said, if it's just a tub, I'd caulk and and forget it. If it's also a shower, I'd be inclined to leave weep holes in the event that water gets behind the tile. Just my 2 cents, I'm sure you'll get a few different opinions on the subject.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:23 AM   #18
cx
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Paul, read the disclaimer at the end of my previous posts.

Do whatever makes you most comfortable.
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Old 03-23-2017, 06:08 PM   #19
pecymanski
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Hello,

I have a dropped ceiling above my shower/bath. It was previously tiled.
I was not planning on tiling. Would DensShield work as a good material to place over the ceiling area for moisture protection. I looked at the Georgia Pacific site and verified it can be painted.

Could I use thinset to cover the screws I use to attach the DensShiled and then cover with a good primer and bathroom semi-gloss?

Thanks
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Old 03-23-2017, 06:25 PM   #20
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If it says it good to go for painting then yes that should work, but I'm not sure you really want to cover your screws with thinset. If you do that you're going to have a hard time sanding it down. Use drywall mud to cover the screw heads, sand, prime, then paint.
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:40 PM   #21
pecymanski
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Thanks Ryan,

If I was going to tile the ceiling, would I be able to fill the chunks of backer board removed when tiles came out with thinset. Baiscally skimcoat the entire surface. Then let it dry and then tile as usual?


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Old Yesterday, 09:12 AM   #22
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Possibly, but I would start fresh. I wouldn't want to install over anything on a ceiling that could compromise the bond. Failure on a ceiling could mean more than just a broken tile...Tear it out and start clean, there's no reason to chance it.
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