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Old 04-14-2018, 03:36 AM   #31
ONC_ben
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2 reasons for schleuter metal strip

#1 i want to protect tile edge during time when kitchen will be operational, before hardwood is installed.

this project is in lived-in home, so there is a lot of logistics involved in maintaining living space between projects.

I have also added a ripped 2x4 butted up against tile/schleuter strip to provide additional protection of edge while kitchen fixtures (temporary but usable) are moved in and used:

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#2 i want to butt transition against tile floor edge, not use prefab transition that would overlap mosaic tile border.

I am still researching and considering how to adjoin wood floor to kitchen tile floor, but I have seen many examples of wood flooring abutting tile floor without an overlapping transition piece.

Examples I have seen have wood flooring running perpendicular to tile floor edge, butting against strip of wood running parallel to and abutting tile floor. I assume this requires caulking between parallel strip and tile floor, but am still researching this.

my idea is to build a transition that ramps up from wood to tile level, but does not overlap tile or schleuter metal strip, just butts up against it.

in any case, the metal edge won't interfere with whatever option i take, even if it is pre-fab transition that covers that edge... and the metal edge gives me peace of mind that tile edge is protected until then.

I will no doubt be seeking further input on the transition, both here and in wood flooring forums.

I will take any advice I can get for free, so please feel free to give

** I have done everything I could think of, including flipping and re-saving pictures in Photo-Shop, but they keep being upside-down in posting.. yet one more of many instances of being too stupid for my smart phone **

here is two pieces of wood flooring stacked and butted against tile/schleuter metal edge.. upside down

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Old 04-14-2018, 01:13 PM   #32
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Since you used several rows of 2x2 tiles, that area could have been ramped upward a little, even 1/8 in 6 inches would have helped the situation. Using the mosaic area as part of the ramp would have made it look less noticeable.

Nice looking floor though.
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Old 04-14-2018, 01:28 PM   #33
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the mosaics are 1x1 inches, not 2x2.

I thought about ramping them down towards wood floor, but refrigerator legs on one side will rest on mosaics, and I didnt want to mess with making fridge on one side of room, and cabinets on other side, level across a 3 1/2" sloped tile strip.

Yes, I am considering using 1/4" plywood underlayment on approach to tile floor to shim up wood floor. That would reduce the difference to about 3/8 inch. I suppose I could use layers of felt to soften the transition from 1/4" underlayment to subfloor under the hardwood, but I am still a little worried how that might affect the wood flooring.

And there is a door to bedroom two feet from edge of tile floor, and it already has laminate flooring installed, so I have to consider that transition from hardwood flooring as well.
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Old 04-14-2018, 02:09 PM   #34
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Yeah, you can make it ramp and still be better than a piece that overlaps. Less of a tripping hazard and won't look bad.

It's not important but I still say those are bigger than 1x1's. I'll let you measure them. Are your field tiles 18x18?
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Old 04-15-2018, 01:39 AM   #35
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yeah, you're right, the mosaics measure 1 3/4", with 1/8" grout lines.. they came on nominal 12"x 12" size mesh-backed squares, each of which i cut in half to have 3-tile wide border.

Yes, field is 18" square tiles.

I figure I will end up ripping some of the wood flooring at the wall, and am thinking I can use those ripped portions to build ramp.

I need to find someone with right tools to machine them nice and even, or I know a sawmill that can do it for me.

Would need to plane flat the underside of the flooring, then put in a gentle slope.. I would then fasten to a full size flooring running parallel to tile edge.

My only worry on this is that both tile and wood flooring require expansion room at walls, so how do I insure wood floor and tile floor will not expand into each other?

I have installed plenty of hardwood floors, as a pretty low-level grunt, and rule was always leave plenty of expansion room (at least 5/8") between flooring and bottom framing plates, which space is ultimately invisible under drywall and baseboard. The boss-man personally dealt with all the tricky parts of installation, so I never learned about anything like this, butting wood floor directly against against immovable object, never mind butting against a tile floor which itself calls for expansion space between it and other immovable objects. Boss-man built lots of custom transitions, but he did that while I was running the edge-sander or some such, so I never learned transition tricks.

I have seen plenty of pictures of pro installations with the ends of hardwood flooring butting against perpendicular wood strip which in turn abuts a tile floor with metal edge, but no explanations as how this does not violate rules for expansion space for each flooring material.

This may be in the category of "don't worry about it," but until I am convinced, I worry about it.
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Old 04-15-2018, 07:04 AM   #36
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Give the wood plenty time to acclimate before installing. Not sure how much time is necessary.
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:09 PM   #37
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The wood has been acclimating for over a year :P

But expansion is needed in case of power loss .. this is hurricane country, and hurricane can take out power for many days.

Also in case house is ever without air conditioning for any period of time for any reason.

I have seen floors installed by owners up to the wall bottom plates... it can get ugly. Owners had to have us pros come in and fix by trimming floor around edge, sanding the cupped planks down to flat, re-fastening many parts to subfloor, and refinishing.

It is bigger problem when flooring edges butt against something than with the ends, but still something I worry about.
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Old 04-15-2018, 09:38 PM   #38
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Two things:
- if you can afford the height, put a rabbit joint on the wood transition that covers the tile end, leaving room for things to slide with a gap under, or
- you can leave a gap and use a flexible joint out of silicon, urethane, or use an engineered one. www.schluter. com has a huge selection, but there are a couple of other companies that make (smaller) selections.
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