removing old tiles to replace tub UPDATE - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums

breszel · 07-25-2003, 10:28 AM

I am looking for tips on removing the old ceramic wall tile around the edge and front of the old tub. Using a grout cutting tip on a rotary tool won't work because of too narrow of a gap between tiles (1/32" - 1/16").
Someone advised using a reciprocating saw to cut between tiles through plaster board (1958 era, no drywall or wonderboard) and removing tile from plaster board by soaking in bucket of water. But what about studs in the wall and chipping tiles?
The tiles are old and we can't find new to math and we don't want to re-tile the whole room.
Thanks for any help!

John Bridge · 07-25-2003, 11:03 AM

Hi Breszel, Welcome.

I'm not sure whether you want to remove the tile installation completely or just remove certain broken tiles from walls. If you want to tear out the installation, get a small sledge hammer and a dust mask. In 1958 most tile jobs were done over cement mortar, not drywall. You need to break the walls into sections you can carry.

If you want to remove one tile at a time without damaging adjacent tiles, you need to pulvarized it starting in the middle of the tile and chipping very carfully toward the edges. I have a little article posted on my real web site.

http://johnbridge.com/replacing_a_wall_tile.htm

bbcamp · 07-25-2003, 11:41 AM

I think John is saying that it's unlikely you'll be able to salvage your tiles. It may be better to find a complementing color or style to create an accent

breszel · 07-25-2003, 01:01 PM

thanks guys for the quick replies. I was hoping for more encouraging news. I was hoping to be able to get out three or so rows of tiles above and in front of the old bath tub to replace the tub. We haven't been able to find a matching color of tile to allow for breaking them out and the entire room is tiled. The bath enclosure is tiled to within 12" of the ceiling and the remaining wall space is tiled about 1/2 way up the wall. There is already another complinentary color border tile but we can't match that either. (walls are pinkish tan with brown border tiles).
If I break out one tile is it within the realm of possibility to take out the neighboring tiles in tact by chipping away at the plaster behind? I am willing to put in long tedious hours to avoid retiling the whole room and I am not confident in the acrylic liners (bath fitters) or the spray jobs to cover that old worn (and baby blue) bath tub, we are taking all the blue stuff out (toilet and sink, too).

Sonnie Layne · 07-25-2003, 02:50 PM

Hello Breszel,

Long, tedious, and being very careful you can likely remove some adjacent tile. You'll then need to grind off mortar from the back of the tiles in order to reset them. If you've the patience, it can be done, but it's still risky. The tiles could pop before the mortar loosens.

breszel · 07-25-2003, 03:35 PM

I guess we have some soul searching to do. I will try all of the tile stores again and see if we can find a match, that would be the best solution. I can't see adding a third color. Thanks for the feed back everybody.

Sonnie Layne · 07-25-2003, 03:40 PM

You may be better off calling some restoration supply houses or salvage yards, they'd come closer to having what you need.

John Bridge · 07-25-2003, 05:18 PM

Now I understand the situation.

I don't usually recommend the tub refinishing processes that go on in this business, but in this case I think I'd be looking into it. Like everything else, there are good and bad experiences.

I honestly don't think you'll be able to salvage many tiles -- If any. Mud showers are built to resist that sort of thing.

Furthermore, you can't get a tub out by removing only three rows of tile. You need more room than that at one end of the other to raise the tub up so that the front skirt or it will clear the stud cavities. It usually takes 6 or 7 rows at one end, plus you have to be able to move it laterally in order to do that.

breszel · 07-28-2003, 01:06 PM

Here is an update: pleasant surprise and a revelation. We decided to "strap 'em on" and move forwardly boldly, or maybe blindly, probably a bit of both. Luckily I have been able to remove more than half of the tiles I intended on removing without breaking a single tile! It appears as though some moisture has worked it's way in between the tiles toward the faucet side and the tiles have been coming up taking a thin layer of plaster. The surface behind the tile consists of two layers of plaster each with it's own paper liner. The work has been easier in some places than others. The tough tiles I worked free by removing the plaster from behind the tile through with a rough file, a putty knife and or old screwdiver.
The revelation part of this is that since the new americast tub will be only 14" high as opposed to the existing 16" high we will need more tile anyway, so we will add a few rows of tiles of a complimentary color turned 45 degrees to help give it an intentional design look rather than the old "we couldn't find the right color tile" look.
Bye the way, in the Buffalo NY area there does not appear to be any businesses that deal in salvaged items for the home. There is a place in Rochester called House Parts but they did not have a match.

John Bridge · 07-28-2003, 06:25 PM

Okay, Breszel, Don't mean to slow you down, but we're going to have to keep this project on one thread. No one will be able to keep up with you otherwise. Too hard to review.

Let's use this one now. The easiest way to do it is for you to bookmark it and keep it in you favorite places. It'll always be there waiting for you. I am going to attempt to merge this one with the old one. Pray for me.

John Bridge · 07-28-2003, 06:31 PM

It worked!

Great. Sounds like you'll be able to pull it off and make it look like it was a plan from the beginning. I think that makes you a top notch tile setter, because that's pretty much what we try to do -- make people think we know what we're doing, that is.

breszel · 07-30-2003, 08:54 AM

Sorry about starting a new thread, I didn't see the settings for sorting threads and this one wasn't coming up after the weekend, I had to change from now I understand.
Anyway, I have question about installing the new tub once I finish getting the tile out (I'm about 75% there with no broken tiles, yet). The existing iron tub looks like it sits on a 2x4 frame and the floor. I plan on installing an Americast to replace it, do I need a cement or sand base on the floor? Also do you recommend the Americast? Crane makes a similar coated steel tub for less than half the cost and there is another manufacture out there, I saw it at Lowes, but I am concerned quality.
Thanks

John Bridge · 07-30-2003, 06:34 PM

I've installed a number of Americast tubs, and I think the quality is there.

The 2x4s that the tub rests on are called ledgers. You may have to adjust the height of them for the new tub.

No, you do not need to set the tub in mortar. Just make sure it's well supported on the ledger and on the floor.

breszel · 08-01-2003, 09:46 PM

Does anyone know what exactly is the Americast made of, I was told it is a steel tub with synthetic liner, but it looks like cast iron (thickness). If it is not iron, how heavy is it compared to iron and compared to steel? I am concerned about wiggling this thing in place and not damaging existing tile, I removed several rows above and in front of old tub. I want a lighter tub that I can handle myself but I want decent quality. Thanks

breszel · 08-01-2003, 10:05 PM

More Questions: What exactly is Green Board?
Also, the old cement/plaster? wall is 3/4" thick. I planned on using wonderboard or handiboard to replace what I have cut away, but 1/2" is the max there, right? So, do I put 1/4" plywood behind it or this Green Board I keep reading about? How thick is Green Board?
Regarding moisture barrier - It looks like felt roofing material or "poly" sheet is acceptable. What is this "Poly" - and where would I find it at Home Depot (roofing, siding supplies, tiling)?
Thanks for the help and by the way this forum is Great, the entier layout, the way you can search threads for keywords, what a great resource!