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Old 04-12-2010, 05:19 AM   #16
jondon
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start at one end

Bridgette,

Nice job on laying all that out, takes patience to do all that but now you know how its gonna look. I would start on one end, leave a row in, pull the rest up. Now once you have that last row in, trace around it with something you will be able to read on the floor. So as you lift each piece up and cement it in, you know exactly where it went as a guide. Those first ones you lift and cement back in you can backbutter and set them back into place without covering your guide lines on the floor. As your lifting up your floor tiles you can go ahead and trace some more of the tiles if it will make you more comfy as guide points so you know your on track.

Yes....what Bob just said,,,,,,grid lines!
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:03 AM   #17
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Will do! One more question I can't seem to visualize correctly. On the grout grid lines, do I snap on the north and east for examples of each grout space since the chalk lines are not 1/8" wide?
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Old 04-18-2010, 02:02 PM   #18
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Help!!

Started the tile but won't be able to complete the room today. It is ok to start and stop a floor area like that?
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Old 04-18-2010, 02:04 PM   #19
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Before we stop for the day I always check to make sure the tiles are in a straight line on the open edge. Use a nice long straight edge, laser or string to check. If the tiles are in a crescent, now is the time to fix it.
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:00 AM   #20
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Whew, I was worried! Thanks!

I have extra sealer and I was wondering it applying it to the porcelain would aid as a grout releaser. We are using Spectralock?

Also have this bath tile project with the lots of ridged mastic residue on the wall after the 4" tile removal. Would the best route be to just cover up the drywall with another layer and CBU the shower part? Plan to use Kerdi but local code requires CBU.
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:19 AM   #21
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Glazed porcelain doesn't need a grout release, unless it has lots of texture. Spectralok cleans up easily from most tile, but you do want to stay with it until you are sure the tile are clean. Epoxy haze is no fun.

Your bathroom is pretty small. Do you really want to give up the space by adding a layer of sheetrock over what you have now? Since you are already doing the tub surround, it's not that much more to remove the old drywall and install fresh, clean material. It also gives you the oppportunity to re-route wiring, move switches or light fixtures, or add sound-deadening insulation in the walls.
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Old 04-27-2010, 07:41 AM   #22
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OK, got it all cleared out and cleaned up. I was wondering though how to remove a black stick adhesive from the 3/4" ply? Intend to install nobleseal with nobleseal ext.

Also, does this order sound right? R13 fiberglass insulation, 6 mil vapor barrier, yellow water mold resistant drywall on walls and hardibacker in shower with kerdi over it?

Finally, know any good vinyl windows or where to get them?

Thanks as usual!
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:06 AM   #23
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Quote:
black stick adhesive
I think this means "cutback" adhesive. It's used to glue vinyl tiles to the floor. You scrape it off the plywood with a razor scraper. Keep at it until all you can see is a brown stain. Do not try to use a chemical stripper. That will make a film that will soak into the wood and potentially defeat the thinset bond. Do not use a belt sander, either. That will create dust that you may inhale. Cutback may contain asbestos, which is safe as long as the cutback remains in a solid form and does not become an airborne dust. There are thinsets that are rated for use over cutback, or Noble has an adhesive that you could use.

As for the walls, you don't need a vapor barrier in the walls where you are using Kerdi. Where the backerboard/Kerdi ends, the vapor barrier should overlap behind the backerboard by 6 or so inches.
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Old 04-28-2010, 09:43 AM   #24
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Thanks Bob! I am now steering towards leaving the cutback and applying Latapoxy 300 then tile. The half bucket size is just the amt i need. would this work since its a bathroom?

Also, what thickness cbu and drywall should i install to get the shower and bathroom walls flush? Kerdi and 3/8" tile on shower, 3/8" tile on bath walls. Is Kerdi 1/8" thick installed?
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:08 AM   #25
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Did you talk with any of Laticrete's tech support folks about your application? Most manufacturers require that the bulk of the cutback adhesive be removed by scraping the slab until only a shadow or stain is visible. I would be very much surprised if Laticrete is any different.

Kerdi is 8 mills thick. You can feather thinset out past where the Kerdi stops and you won't see the transition in the tile work.
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Old 05-17-2010, 07:47 PM   #26
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Glass block window in shower install steps

Sunroom/kitchen tile is done and epoxy grouted. Besides having to return to it a week later with a buffer and soft scrub to remove haze, all went smooth and we love it.

On to the bathroom. Here's the plan. Only question is with the window sill. With densshield and tile, the top of the tile with cover up some of the bottom of the glass block. Is this ok? Feedback would be extremely helpful!

Remove window
Move 2x4s to create correct rough opening
Apply Protecto Wrap Window and Door Sealing/flashing Tape to exterior exposed frame
Install glass block window flush with exterior
Densshield tub walls and inner window frame abutting to the vinyl channel
Kerdi fix seal the densshield where it meets the window
Redguard/hydro ban or similar over all seams and all fasteners
Tile
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Old 05-18-2010, 05:21 AM   #27
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It's OK to cover the glass block if necessary, but, since you are re-framing the wall to accomodate the block, why not incorporate a spacer so the glass is fully exposed?
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:10 AM   #28
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So the spacer would go btw the vinyl channel and the 2x4 rough frame? Would it be plywood? Does the rest sound ok?
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:41 AM   #29
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I think solid wood would be better. You have to consider how you are going to trim the outside. Also, the waterproofing should still be adhered/sealed to the plastic window frame to protect the wood on the inside.

Otherwise, I think your plan is OK.
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:19 PM   #30
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I thought protecto wrap would work but I guess that isn't a trim. Here's a pic of the exterior. The frame will be 1" smaller all around than the existing rough opening. I have no idea what to use....some kind of metal flashing i guess but does it go on before the vinyl channel and curve over to meet the existing trim frame?
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