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Old 11-04-2009, 09:20 PM   #16
andybuildz
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Alex...nope, sorry...just checked my contact list on my cell. The guys name was Gary another guy like us from LI.

You keeping busy? Been real slow for me up until now again. Spurts of busy slow busy slow. It's a total mind F....lol. If I land this job which I'm pretty certain I will it should keep me busy for a good 3-4 months I think.

What are you charging per sq ft to lay just the tile?
I usually figure out my time then dbl check it by current sq ft price but I have no idea what tile guys are charging per sq ft around here n these times.

I'll be laying 18 or 16X24" tile. No idea what pattern they want yet but I think there'd only be two choices...line up the joints (which I doubt they want) or do it in a sort of V pattern.

Hey...you should leave me your number in case I need to sub some stuff out or in case you ever get slow and I get overly busy (I wish...lol)

I did this bathroom for the same people among lots of other things last year into this year up until a few months ago.. http://picasaweb.google.com/andybuil...directlinkandy
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:25 PM   #17
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been real busy... booked into march right now...
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:35 PM   #18
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Thanks Alex...I put it into my phone. If I land this gig I'll be right behind you..probably good to March as well with all these people need done.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:12 PM   #19
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One other question..I know you're supposed to use unmodified thinset between the tile and Ditra but what about semi modified. I know you can use that with Kerdi but what about Ditra? Take too long to dry? I like the sticky-ness of the semi modified. Versabond?

Personally I lay my ditra with modified (over plywood), not sure its that big of a deal, but I do feel a lot better about it. If you wanted to you could fill the waffles with modified, then let it dry over night, and set tile the next day with modified. I've found that the dried mortar in the waffles will absorb enough moisture to allow you to use modified to set your tile. That being said, its important to remember that this stuff is warrantied/certified with non modified, so why not benefit from the easier clean up
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:23 PM   #20
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Mike...Very good points. I never thought to fill the waffles in first and let it dry. That alone would make it easier to snap my lines the next day and see it more clearly but it is an extra step not that thats such a big deal.
Under the Ditra it's "supposed" to be modified I think being the plywood absorbs moisture and sorta breaths.

It's on top that they say you need to use the unmodified because there's no where for the moisture to go and it takes forever to dry.

I have to travel a bit to find unmodified so it's sort of a hassle every time I need an extra bag. Plus I like how sticky the semi modified is.

Do you (anyone) find that the unmodified is just as sticky or just as workable?
Thanks
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:24 PM   #21
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Schluter says to use mortar appropriate for the substrate over which the Ditra is installed. That means modified for plywood is appropriate.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:28 PM   #22
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Roger...I know modified goes under the Ditra...I'm tlking about the controversy over the Ditra. I sorta equate it to Kerdi and Johnny B and a bunch of other folks think it's ok to use semi modified over Kerdi so i assume it's the same with Ditra...although I think you probably use more thinset in ditra being it has the waffles so it may take longer to dry than the Kerdi which is smooth...hmmmm
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:12 AM   #23
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I've done skim coats with modified over kerdi (to float the wall a bit), after it dried I then set tile with modified and it works extremely well.
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:57 AM   #24
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I've done skim coats with modified over kerdi (to float the wall a bit), after it dried I then set tile with modified and it works extremely well.<<<

Mike...to me Kerdi is thin as compared to Ditra so it doesn't hold as much mud as Kerdi therefore I think it dries much quicker....talking about semi modified TS.

So I don't find any reason to skim coat Kerdi like doing that with Ditra first. I thought that was a good idea...assuming one chooses to void the warrantee and go semi modified which I've done countless times with Kerdi. No problem ever!
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:42 AM   #25
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Andy, The subfloor doesn't get glued down unless it is a full glue. Also break the sheets at the 1/4 point between joists (4 inches on 16 inch centers) fasteners every 4 inches on perimeter and 6 inch in the field. I used to do it differently too, but I've recently been corrected (at schluter school).

The Ditra goes down on plywood with modified, and tile layed with premium unmodified.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:02 AM   #26
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Thanks Jason...yeh..after all these years I just got it with with skipping the screws into the joists and breaking the boards over the joists by 4" at 16 oc on the second sheet. Better late than never huh? Skipping the glue will save some time at least. Every little bit helps. Just never wanna skip anything and lose any integrity of the strength though. After I pull up the old oak floor I'll get to see what the subfloor looks like. Think it's 1/2" which is kinda weird not being 3/4". Hope I can keep myself from full gluing each board...lol. I always seem to go over-board.
Thanks bro
and PS...many moons ago I used to live in Arrington and Lovingston Va. and stopped into Lynchberg to some old hardware store. Still have friends that live on the farm I lived on...his names Woody Greenberg. I think he's become a big shot around there.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:19 AM   #27
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CBU or DITRA?

Hmmmm.Ill guess Ill throw you some opinions from the other side of the tracks.I used Ditra just because Ive heard people talkin about it.Let me give you some of the real realities.1st of all,you see all those waffles?They have to be filled.This means almost twice as much thinset needed.Am I missing something?This fact alone is saying more money,more labor,and more time(mixing is roughly 7 min and slaking is roughly 10).

Ive got techs to screw backerboard.If you use the Senco screwgun or the stand up makita its very fast.My guys actually look forward to this part.I also like to take consideration of my techs when choosing materials/methods.They don't like the ditra either and its not because I forced the opinion.I think its because theyd probably rather carry screws than all the extra thinset weight/wait.+ I usually use EZ board,which is already light and easier to cut and fit under door jams,where the ditra likes to roll back up.

Another thing is be careful when you walk,or what kind of kneepads you use.I use the blue barwalts with the white caps.Subsequently this crushes the waffles,which defeats the uncoupling.Yeah,and since you're not screwing nothin you had better make sure youve acheived ultimate contact underneath by tamping,you wouldnt want those infamous air pockets poppin up left and right.Did I mention that popping lines is a pain in the whatchyacall?Oh my god.This was the weight that broke the camels back,for me.I cant use my beloved inklines.Dusty innaccurate chalk here we come

Here's the inklines in case you didnt know...
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:23 AM   #28
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Well, I've never heard the term "semi-modified," and I wouldn't use it. Thin set is either modified or it's not. I've said things like "lightly modified," which doesn't really say it, either, but it lets you know the stuff is modified.

There really is no controversy around here. We all understand the Schluter specs on Ditra and on Kerdi. Unmodified dry-set mortar for everything except Ditra over plywood. -- as per The Ditra Handbook and the Kerdi Handbook. http://www.schluter.com

I use VersaBond, which voids the Schluter warranty. You wanna do that it's up to you.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:30 AM   #29
andybuildz
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Sorry John...thats what I meant...lightly modified using Versabond.
John...what do you think of the post just above yours?

I did buy your Kerdi book a year or more ago btw.
Thanks
andy

Last edited by andybuildz; 11-05-2009 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:39 AM   #30
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Kilauea....The chalk lines was also a concern of mine over the waffles and I also thought to buy the Taj ink snap line but I heard not great things about it. How's your luck with it? this was one reasonI thought to buy the new Bosch tile laser line to use in addition.

Walking over the Ditra was also a concern for me. Glad you brought it up being the floor I'll be doing is rather big.
I suppose I could use the Ditra in sections rather than covering the entire floor. Maybe a 1/4 of the floor at a time.

For anyone:
Also...someone mentioned to me that they thought with the floor being at least 40' long that I may need expansion joints. This would really suck if I had to do that being the area is a big focal point in the house.

I can't see why I'd need expansion joints inthis application. Does anyone else. Photos are in my OP in case you all didn't see the area.
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