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Old 03-03-2018, 01:15 AM   #16
Kman
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Tim, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and the history of the project is in one place.

For the purpose of the construction of the shower or it's waterproofing function, it makes no difference whether you do the floor or walls first. Personally, I always do the floor last, (as well as the curb) so that I don't drop mud on the floor tile, and I find it easier to cut the floor tile to fit within the perimeter of the shower rather than set the wall tiles on top of the floor.
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Old 03-04-2018, 11:43 AM   #17
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Shower Knee-wall failure!

I made mistakes with my first knee-wall and have paid dearly for it. The photo only shows the failed wall and not the subsequent damage to the sub-floor and floor joists.

I'm now at the stage in the rebuild of covering and tiling the knee wall again and would like your expert opinions so I won't have to suffer through this nightmare again.

On the first wall I attached 1/2" Durock on the top and all sides of the wall. I believe I mesh taped the joints and filled with thin-set. No....I didn't use any sort of sealing membrane before tiling. I then used bullnose tiles on the sides of the wall and course tiles on the top thereby creating two nice grout lines all along the top edge of the wall as well as every six inches between the course tiles. No....I didn't slope the top of the wall either! Then to make matters worse, when installing the shower enclosure, I screwed the aluminum channel to the top of the wall and can't remember sealing the screws holes. The channel had weep holes but something tells me I should not have put screws in any of the horizontal sections of the enclosure.

Please advise....and thank you as always.
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:35 PM   #18
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Hi Tim, did you also install screws in the Durock at or below the curb height? The screws are actually supposed to be 3 inches above the curb height of the shower.

Did you also screw Durock to the top and inside of the curb. ?
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Old 03-04-2018, 03:37 PM   #19
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Hi Tim,

I think you've answered most of your questions. I recommend that you waterproof the entire shower before tiling. Sheet membrane, liquid membrane .. either one or both.
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:55 PM   #20
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Thanks Davy,
Yes I will keep any screws a good 6 inches above the curb height and no screws in the curb.

Thanks John,
I will be sealing everything and I won't be screwing the glass panel channel to the top of the wall. Please tell me that's a cardinal sin when it comes to knee walls....I'm still trying to convince my wife that was THE main problem.

By the way, what is your recommendation in preparing the top of the wall and for tiling the top of the wall. I was planning to slope the top of the wall, attach the 1/2 backer board and finish the joints, seal the entire wall with something like RedGard, use 13" tiles and cap the wall tiles to reduce the amount of grout lines, and seal the grout. Am I missing anything?

Thanks again guys.
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Old 03-05-2018, 07:01 PM   #21
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Tim, the questions I had in post two were mainly about how the other three walls and curb were built.

You are right, drilling into the top of the pony wall or curb should never be allowed.

The Redgard would be the waterproofing. Get it about credit card thickness and you'll be fine. The sealer won't help much with waterproofing.
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:30 PM   #22
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More Questions about the Pan

Hi everyone,
Just a couple more questions about the pan:

1. My shower pan is only 38" X 40".....I put metal lathe in the pre-slope and was wondering if it was needed in the top mud as well? If so, is there a trick to prevent the lathe from damaging the liner during the placement of the mud?

2. Does it matter if I complete the curb before or after the top mud?

Thank you very much!
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Old 03-07-2018, 10:55 PM   #23
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1. Not needed.

2. I guess you could do the curb first, but you'll find it difficult to do the pan afterward without damaging the curb.

I'd do them both at the same time, pan, then curb, so that it's all one monolithic piece.
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Old 03-07-2018, 11:12 PM   #24
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So many times you'll need to rest your knees on the curb to reach the back corners of the shower floor. So the curb would need to be set to do that. I usually do the curb first and try to time it so it's not on the same day as I'm going to tile the floor. Sometimes I'll spend the last hour of my day tiling the curb even if I have to leave a little wall tile undone till the next day. That way I can work on the walls the following day and also work on the floor without having to stay off the curb.
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Old 03-07-2018, 11:34 PM   #25
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To clarify, if we're discussing mudding the floor and curb, I'd do the floor then the curb, preferably at the same time.

If we're discussing setting tile on the floor and curb, makes no difference which you do. I usually do the floor then the curb last, but either will work.
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Old 03-08-2018, 07:09 AM   #26
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Kevin, I think we're on the same page but we don't do it in the same order. I do my floor last but like you said, either way will work.
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Old 03-08-2018, 11:03 AM   #27
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Please clarify how I should mud the top coat of the pan and the curb at the same time when using pan mud for the pan and mason''s mud for the curb.....do I just switch muds?

Thank you.
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:42 PM   #28
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That is correct.
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Old 03-08-2018, 07:29 PM   #29
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Here's a link about shower curbs.
http://www.johnbridge.com/how-to/shower-curb/
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:56 PM   #30
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Waterproof Membranes Q's

Hello all,

1. Does the use of a Waterproof Membrane reduce the adhesion factor of thinset mortar between the and tile?

2. Should a WM be used on the mud shower pan?

3. What brands of WM are good choices?

Thank you for your advice!

Tim
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