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Old 01-30-2018, 04:46 PM   #61
wwhitney
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A good closeup picture of the DWV pipes sticking out of the wall might let us identify them.

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Old 01-30-2018, 05:16 PM   #62
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Here's an above photo. The compression nut is loose so water drips hence the cup underneath...

The thing that I did was I tossed out the old sink and must have tossed the compression nut from the tail piece. So I don't have the original nut.

I don't know if I can just replace that or must get a whole new p-trap which did buy, but cannot use if the size is different.

I sent a text to the plumber I know who replaced the stops.
If I have to hire him to replace the pipe I'll do that.
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Old 01-30-2018, 06:20 PM   #63
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It's hard to tell from that angle, but it looks like ABS that's a bit dirty? It's a black plastic? If so, I suggest removing the trap (plus emptying it) and taking it with you to a hardware store to find the correct pieces.

I didn't follow your description of the problem, but it's possible that you have a 1-1/2" trap with a reducer to accept a 1-1/4" tailpiece from a sink.

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Old 01-30-2018, 06:53 PM   #64
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Not black. More like kinda grey. Not sure if it's ABS we seem to have mostly PVC around here mixed with brass + lead/oakum on cast iron for the toilets.

The issue is that I have a new sink and tailpiece, but the tail doesn't come with a compression nut. I seem to have disposed of both the compression nut and it's insert washer with the old sink.

So bought a new 1-1/2" p-trap kit figuring using the whole trap or just the nut and insert washer.
Upon placing the nut over the old trap it just falls over the threads being too big.

I guess I will have to take that trap with me as you said. I need to stuff something in the hole of that remaining pipe.
That trap stinks and always has so I try to touch it as little as possible.
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Old 01-30-2018, 07:28 PM   #65
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Lavatories are conventionally 1-1/4". If your 1-1/2" compression nut is too big, try a 1-1/4" compression nut and washer. It should be possible to purchase just the compression nut and washer.

The trap shouldn't really stink so much. I suggest taking it off, dumping it out, and thoroughly cleaning out what gunk has accumulated. Stick a rag in the trap arm while the trap is off.

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Old 01-30-2018, 07:48 PM   #66
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Whelp! I thought I bought the P-trap marked Bathroom but I see that
it's not. Seems that is problem #1

Where would I locate just the compression in the store?

Would I look where the fittings are vs where the p-traps stuff is?

Does Home Depot or alternatively Lowes even carry them solo or
would I need to find a plumbing supply house?
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Old 01-30-2018, 07:54 PM   #67
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Try this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...798C/205153717

I bet Lowes would have it too.

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Old 01-30-2018, 08:10 PM   #68
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That should be right.

Now if all other things are equal I need to finish the backsplash tomorrow and
set that sink.

My back still aching from last night. Bending over the bucket to mix the stuff was a killer.
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Old 01-31-2018, 04:25 PM   #69
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Whelp! I wanted just the 1-1/2" slip nut and washer, but in spite of the fact my store showed 20 in stock online the local store did not have stock.

It fits the old trap which I have cleaned put some bleach and hot water through to clear the smell.

Now to finish the backsplash and get this sink installed.
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Old 02-01-2018, 02:27 PM   #70
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Question outlet cover proud of wall

I'm having difficulty cutting tile around the power outlet.

The backsplash is one 6" tile high plus thickness of a finishing nail spacer.
The bottom edge of the outlet cover falls right on the top edge of mid-line of two tiles.
Even without the spacers the tiles are maybe 1/8" too tall.

I tried to trim the tile around the cover, but I realized this is going to reveal the white bisque of the tile.

I cannot change or move the outlet. I have aluminum wire ca 1970s.

Any other options?
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Old 02-01-2018, 02:37 PM   #71
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cut the bottom of the tiles off
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Old 02-01-2018, 03:55 PM   #72
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Some options:

A standard size cover plate is 4.5" tall, but many are taller. So if your cover plate is taller, get a standard size one.

Move the box and receptacle. Sure that's trouble with the aluminum wiring, but you could put in a sufficiently large box in the new location (could be just 1/2" up) and use AlumiConns to pigtail your existing aluminum wiring.

Tile all the way around the perimeter of the box, use a box extender, and have the cover plate on top of the tile.

At least one vendor on the web sells "short" cover plates, where one side of the receptacle cover is shorter than the other. If these are actually molded that way, rather than just a standard size cut off, it might look OK.

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Old 02-01-2018, 04:43 PM   #73
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Question

I just did a tile count. I have 15 unused tiles left. I need 8 for the back. A cut in the corner and 3 for the side including the two that fall on the outlet.

I've been thinking of other options:

1) Mirror the cuts on the counter top up the wall and finish with 6" pieces. I should have enough scraps from the cuts around the sink to do this. That would put my cuts for the side wall inside a full tile and make the sliver I was trying to cut into a notch which I could put behind the wall plate.

2) Cut the bottom edge of the *cover* off. I've see someone do that before. That would give me the plastic cut, but would be far less show than the tile.

BTW, moving the box is not an option b/c I'm in Houston city limits and must be licensed electrician to do any electrical wiring which is not a repair. I know nobody would know, but give the condition of some of the wiring inside our walls not messing with that is the better part of valor.

Even with ALumiConn connectors for which I do not have a torque screw driver, I would
not chance messing with it myself.

*edit*

Tried the mirror tile idea by cutting all the scraps to 2-3/4" to match against the 3-1/4" cuts on the deck.
(This Dewalt D24000 wet saw is a dream to work with! I made 10 cuts equal cuts 2-3/4". Just wow!)
But the outlet still has 1/2" of vertical height showing behind it not to mention the gap now created by the tile thickness.

I see Home Depot sells shims for going under the outlet to bring it flush with tile. Anyone used these?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Sp...-202937113-_-N

I'm considering planning to tile more on this wall. The easiest way is to just tile on the wall and shim out the outlet.

*end edit*
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Old 02-04-2018, 04:00 PM   #74
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Question Tile done - pictures...

Tile is done. Little left to do but clean up and then grout.

And by coincidence I bought grout called Haystack in un-sanded and was able to find a 1lb container of same color in sanded version!
Yes, 1lb and it's cement grout not premixed or other crap!

So my issue with the big grout line on that corner piece is fixed.

Found that I built up the inside corner a little too much with the kerdiband
which has off set that tile plus the corner is out of plumb.
So what do I do in that corner? Grout or caulk? (Bottom-left picture below)

I have used CBP color-matched caulk and it's the worst caulk I've ever used. "Gooey" is the only word for it. Doesn't stay put. Comes out of the tube too much even with 1/8" bead etc. I tried that around my tub years ago and it was so messy I just dug it out and used silicone II in brown.

Not looking forward to just using silicone in this case due to limited color choices though. Ideas?

Used outlet spacers to put the outlet plug over the tile. This allows electrical work without disturbing the tile.

Thank heavens for that D24000 wet saw! It is the easiest saw I've ever used. I wish I'd had it years sooner.

Now, I think I need to get bullnose trim for the tops and front edge of the right wall. What do you all think?
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:46 PM   #75
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Question

Bumpety Bumpety bump...

Same question about the CBP color matched caulk vs grout in that corner.
And what about the backsplash? I don't know if I can get caulk into that change of plane area from counter to back splash. I plan to grout later today. I will probably look for the caulk and some clear or medium color silicone II for the backsplash.

Also, bullnose trim or not? Can I paint or otherwise disguise the white tile bisque outside of using bullnose? I'm going to have a mirror on the back wall so it's only the side wall by the the outlet that matters. Top of that and front edges.
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