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Old 12-07-2017, 03:13 PM   #61
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Here's my other option to deal with it.
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Old 12-09-2017, 10:08 AM   #62
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Joe, thanks for those. I like them both and will see whether they'd look good.

I did a mini flood test last night, testing the Kerdi drain area only. I was extremely nervous about the bond around the flange fleece. But no leaks after 15+ hours. Tomorrow I'll be ready for the full 24+ hour test of the entire pan. After this, on to tiling the shower floor!
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:20 AM   #63
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Sigh! New concern about this meshed 2 1/8 x 2 1/8 porcelain from Floor & Decor. There is a lot of glue on the back of the tiles. I understand that this is a common problem with mosaic tiles. Does this pose a problem in my shower? I was thinking of laying it with Versabond but the reduced bonding surface has me concerned.

Here's the product:
https://www.flooranddecor.com/tile-d...912200615.html

Should I be concerned or is this a no-brainer?
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Old 12-09-2017, 12:08 PM   #64
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Wolfgang, when asked what thinset mortar he'd recommend to set a tile like that on a shower floor, one of our esteemed tile setting product representatives said, "Someone else's."

I'd recommend you first submerge a small section of those tiles in water and see if the mesh backing melts off the tile. That's the same bonding property you can expect from your thinset mortar. If you're bonding only to the glue, and if the glue is water soluble, you don't want the tile on your shower floor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:32 PM   #65
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Hi CX,
Thanks for your help! I did an extreme test, separated one tile from the grid and submerged it in hot water just taken off the boil. I let it sit for 20 minutes and then tried to scrub the glue off. The good news is that it didn't come off.

On youtube, I've seen people like Sal Diblasi lay such mosaic tile in showers. Surely, if he deems it to be safe, it can be done? What's the alternative if you want mosaic, anyway? Mechanically grind off glue from each individual tile and then lay them individually? I don't think I'll be THAT patient.

I was thinking to get a highly modified thinset for this application to increase adhesion. Extended drying time is not a concern as there is lots of drying space between the tiles and as I am not in a rush.

Short of another hour-long trip to the tile store, is there a quality highly modified available at Home Depot or Lowes that you can recommend?

Something like this?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Porce...Mortar/3743821

Thanks for all advise you have to offer.
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:12 PM   #66
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If your glue is not water soluble, your only problem is whether your thinset mortar will stick adequately to the glue.

The MAPEI mortar you linked may do just fine, but doing a small test board might make you more confident. At Homer's you might try Custom's FlexBond.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:17 PM   #67
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Great. I think I'll try the Flexbond as it comes in a smaller 25lb bag.
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Old 12-11-2017, 09:06 AM   #68
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Schluter Rondec in stainless is ordered for my curb and niche! Good stuff but at $46 per profile not exactly cheap.

I've got 8x24 wall tile in polished ceramic and am trying to decide what to do with that 135 deg. outside corner on my neo-angle shower. One way would be, I guess, to back-miter the tile in that area and to try to create a uniform grout joint.

But maybe I should keep schlutering and try this beautiful stainless profile?

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...O-DE/p/DECO_DE

Anyone here ever tried the Deco-DE? It sure sounds like it's perfect for my situation. And at $41 it's such a sweet deal.
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Old 12-11-2017, 11:15 PM   #69
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Ordered the Deco-DE from Schluter directly. Nobody I am familiar seems to stock it. It will be fun to try this.

Since the stainless profiles don't have the 1/16 in grout line spacer built in, I was hoping to butt the tile directly up to the profile. I actually don't want a grout line there. I assume there wouldn't be any problem with that, would there?

On another note, my Kerdi shower passed its 24 hour flood test without problems!
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Old 12-14-2017, 02:06 PM   #70
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I need grout advice. I've decided to not use any single component grout such as Fusion Pro. Too much controversy around use on shower floors.


My options after more research:

1.) high quality cementitious grout like Mapei Ultracolor or Custom Prism

OR

2.) Spectralock (epoxy)


If I chose Spectralock, could I also grout all changes of plane with it and forego the silicone in these areas? What's the best source for buying Spectralock?

If I chose a cementitious grout, which one would serve me better? I am ready to seal and maintain the grout in this case.
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Old 12-15-2017, 05:54 PM   #71
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And here is the floor flexbonded to the Kerdi. Nice 3/8 to 1/2 in per foot slope from each corner (depending on distance). This should drain rather nicely. The wall space will be overlapped by the wall tile. Thus, there shouldn't be any grout lines where floor meets wall.

I liked Joe's second suggestion for embedding the drain the best and tried it. I am happy with it.

The mortar is pretty solid after 24 hours but I will give it another three days since it's highly modified.

I am still interested in some good grout advice (see my last post). I am leaning towards the Laticrete Spectralock now.
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Old 12-15-2017, 06:34 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfgang
If I chose Spectralock, could I also grout all changes of plane with it and forego the silicone in these areas?
No.

Both the tile industry and the grout manufacturer require that you use a flexible sealant in your tile installation at all changes of plane in the backing material, Wolfgang. Use of an epoxy grout does not change that.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-15-2017, 11:11 PM   #73
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Wolfgang, how did you make the cuts for the drain? I.E. Cut out center of mosaic sheet, or cut tiles on edges of sheet and mated them together, or separated the tiles and cut them individually, or something else?

I'm looking to do the same thing and I'm working with a somewhat cheap wet saw and zero tiling experience. I also have to get the edges below the surface somewhat of a clean cut since it will be slightly visible due to the tiled drain.
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Old Yesterday, 02:31 PM   #74
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CX: Thanks! Will use the silicone in those places! I ordered my Spectralock A,B and C kit today and splurged on a quality grout float for working with epoxies. This will be some good grout, I reckon.

Joe: I cut out a section of 9 tiles from the 6x6 sheet and then in my dry layout I centered the sheet with the cutout around the drain with the grate in place. After measuring the correct distance I marked my still connected quadrangle of nine tiles with a Sharpie. Then, I removed the tiles from the fiberglass mat and cut them individually.

I am using this saw which has a movable/tiltable head for plunge cuts:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-7-in...Stand/50432428

I cut them free-handed with my hands propped on the sliding table (which was locked into position) and the saw's head up. Even though a wet saw won't take chunks out of your hand, you still have to be careful. But with this small size tile free-handed is the only way. It's important that you hold the tile perpendicular to the blade so you get a straight cut into the tile. Slow and steady does it. I start my cut a little away (1/16 or so) from my line as the blade tends to take out a wider cut than I initially think. Then, I let the lateral portion of the blade do the work in laterally grinding close to my mark. Oh, and while you're at it, grind some of that residual glue of the bottom of your individual tiles. That'll increase maximum adhesion to the thinset. As you saw in my previous posts, I used a highly polymer modified thinset to set these small tiles. I wanted maximum strength.

Other than a 80 sqf floor, I also have zero tiling experience. But I am patient and slow (the former I have to force myself, the latter comes naturally to me. )

I don't understand what you mean by the "edges below the surface"? I made sure that I set my final drain height approx. 1/16 below the abutting tile to ensure no water will remain right around the grate. Setting the drain/grate assembly was the step I was most nervous about. Make sure you stuff enough thinset under the underside of the drain grate proper (the perimeter of the metal portion)and onto the flange of the Kerdi drain as well of course. You want the drain to be fully supported by mortar. It's easier to clean out excess when pushing the grate down than to have to worry about hollow spots later on. I kept my test plug in place out of fear that thinset would make it into the drain. I found that later to be an unfounded fear. The cylindrical plastic piece does a good job of preventing that.
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Last edited by makethatkerdistick; Yesterday at 02:38 PM. Reason: adding some additional thought
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Old Yesterday, 03:04 PM   #75
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The "edges below the surface" is because I'm attempting to use a tileable drain, so you will be able to see the edges of the tile that are cut. Not much, but I don't think I could get away with undercuts from the tile saw blade or chipped out sections either. Should look a bit like below but with smaller tiles.

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