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Old 10-19-2017, 01:17 PM   #46
rmckee84
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Was any mesh or fabric used to tie the redguard to the drain body? Just painting redgard on the drain won't make a good deal really. Several companies like noble make a flashing for the divot method that creates a seal with a clamping style drain.
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Old 10-19-2017, 03:43 PM   #47
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Well, no on that... I don't see that anything like that flashing is available at my local big box. I figure better to stay away from mean because it is round and will not conform well and I would just end up with a dam around the dimple. Open to suggestions. Many small pieces?

It doesn't actually look like the leak was around the drain on this test though. It came into the basement through joints in the subfloor and it looks like I found some pin holes in the mesh at the corner to the interior wall where it probably leaked in and flowed down the subfloor
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Old 10-20-2017, 05:46 AM   #48
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Put another layer of redgard on the corners where the pinholes were, filled water at around 10 pm, looks like no leaks this time.
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Old 10-20-2017, 10:10 AM   #49
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Okay... There was no dripping water when I left for work this morning around 7:30 AM. My wife is home waiting for the inspection which hasn't happened yet, and now she says she sees a slow drip at one place in the basement.

So here's the timeline:

7:30 AM Thursday filled the shower and marked the level to prepare for a planned leak test inspection today (Friday)
10 AM Thursday wife sees fast drip in more than one place, drains the shower.
6 PM Thursday I examine the shower and find a few places with visible pinholes in the corner mesh. The location where leaks are visible are consistent with subfloor seems and it looks like the water may have flowed under the mortar bed to the place where it was dripping. I apply another layer of Redgard at the corners ensuring the pinholes are filled in.
Evening Thursday I work on Redgard around the shower niches. At one point I drop my drill on the shower floor and it gouges a spot on the Redgard in the middle of the floor. I paint a thick coat of Redgard on this spot
10:30 PM all Redgard looks red, so I fill the shower pan back up to the previous mark.

I want to note that the water looked cloudy. There were some spots where I dripped redgard while working on the shower niches where there might have been some wet drops of Redgard that might have dissolved in water.

7:30 AM I left for work, no sign of anything dripping.
10:30 AM my wife reports a slow drip.

I'm guessing the Redgard might have needed more drying time and I might need to go back to recoat it after it dries. I have no way to cancel the inspection so I'll see what happens.

Update: Inspector just came out and saw the water level still at the line and gave it approval. I told my wife to drain the water so it can dry and I'll put another coat on the corners later this weekend. It's a busy weekend so I won't have time to tile until Sunday anyway.
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Old 10-20-2017, 02:51 PM   #50
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You can do what you like but I would sure want to do another flood test to be sure there are no leaks before I started to put tile on.
Just my opinion.
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Old 10-20-2017, 09:43 PM   #51
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I vote with Kirk.

That's part of the reason I always recommend against using liquid-applied direct bonded waterproofing membranes to make shower receptors.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:53 AM   #52
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I have no problem with that. I'll redgard tonight and give it a day to set then test tomorrow, drain Wednesday and give it a day to dry. Meanwhile I'll time the laundry room and work on precutting tile for the bathroom.
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Old 10-30-2017, 12:04 PM   #53
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Last week I tested again, found the leak around the drain, put mesh around the drain and a few coats, no more leaks.

So Friday I tiled the laundry room floor, Saturday there wasn't much time to work and this is as far as I got Sunday. I have my tile saw set up in the basement because I don't have a spot that I can splatter tile saw water all over anywhere else. This much just wiped me put, and I wasted probably 35 lbs of the 50 lb thinset bag I mixed.

I wanted to put the tiles on the wall diagonal, but now I'm thinking I might be overdoing it and I'll end up too tired with all the tile cutting... or maybe I just need to precut and set tiles on my next full evening. Maybe precutting will make it easier, I'm just not sure I can preplan the are around the niches because lining up the edges depends on the mortar thickness under the tiles in the niche...

any suggestions for how I can plan the tile cuts for the niche?
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:47 AM   #54
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It's been a busy month so it's been hard to get large enough blocks of time to mix a batch of thinset and use it, but I've gone through 4 bags of thinset - usually wasting at least half of it because so much of this bathroom involves fitting just about every single tile. But I've finally finished setting all the tiles.

The third pic is a surround pic, so the camera stiches together a bunch of pics and sometimes they don't line up right in case anyone is wondering why the pic looks a little funny.
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Old 12-06-2017, 11:03 AM   #55
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I do have a question before I jump in to grout. First an aside...

I just realized I never posted pics of the finished tile in the hallway and laundry room and I don't even have those pictures after grout. My intent was to use "linen" colored grout for the hallway and laundry and "new taupe" for the bathroom, I had a bag of each... But when I mixed the grout for the hallway and laundry, I grabbed the wrong bag. It came out dark, but it got lighter when it dried so it goes okay with the hallway tile, and the laundry looks okay although in an area I was more concerned with aesthetics it might be more contrast than I wanted.

Getting to my question now:

I think the new taupe is going to come out a little darker than the bathroom tile and that would be good for highlighting the pattern I've worked to have in the wall tile, but with all the tiles that had to be cut with the niches, the corners, the shower curb, the slope of the floor towards the drain... There just was no way I was going to achieve a consistent 1/4" grout line everywhere. There's lots of places that ended up wider or less than 1/4".

Should I consider changing to a lighter color that will blend more with the tile so as to not draw attention to the grout line width variations? Or am I worrying too much and I should go with the contrast so the patterns are emphasized?

If it matters, I have a blue paint planned for the walls (step daughter likes blue and we let the kids pick colors.)
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:05 PM   #56
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Will,

This question is best answered by Mrs Will.
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:51 AM   #57
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Well the problem with that is she doesn't like to make decisions, and that's why we sometimes poll the kids - to my mind, it's no worse than just rolling dice as a decision making method. She doesn't really have much opinion about grout color.

What did get a reaction from her was that she noticed the upper left tile framing the upper niche. I was in a dilemma because that tile fell off when I walked away to wash thinset off my hands before I taped it, the tile broke and I did not have another spare bullnose tile - it was the last one I put up. So what I did was I took 2 remnants and made 2 3" long tiles go where there would've been a 6" long tile. Something like that, it was probably more like 2 3.5" tiles where there was a 7" tile, but at any rate...

Had I decided I need to replace that tile, it would've involved going to a Home Depot about 10 miles away (because the nearest one doesn't carry the tiles we are using) The batch of thinset would've set and I would have been

It's an irregularity that has me changing my thinking on grout color, and maybe I should go with a grout color that will blend with the tile color so that irregularities do not stand out.

We used Catalina Canyon from Daltile.
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