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Old 12-04-2017, 06:33 PM   #1
Mr_Stop
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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First Ditra & Kerdi bathroom job

I'm in the middle of working on my first job using Schluter Ditra and Kerdi Board. In the past, I would use Durock on the bathroom floors and shower walls. The shower pan would be constructed using a mud preslope + liner + top layer. I decided to try the Schluter system to save some wear and tear on my body and hopefully provide an easier install and possibly time savings.

The project is a master bath and part of a larger renovation and addition we have been working on. The house previously didn't have a master, so we built it into reclaimed space.

Tile to be installed:
  • Main bath floor: 8"x40" plank tile
  • Bath surround: 4.5 x 10" patterned glazed tile
  • Shower floor: pebbles
  • Shower walls: 4.5 x 10" glazed tile installed vertically with glass mosaic accent stripe at shower fixture
  • Shower niche: 2 with glass mosaic in background
  • Shower bench: large format tile

Schluter profiles will be used on all exposed tile edges
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:40 PM   #2
Mr_Stop
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Since the previous room had hardwood flooring, the first job was to remove it. 1" nominal diagonal boards were underneath. Since I needed to raise the finished floor height 1.5" and the floor was neither flat nor level, I decided to put in a new deck mud floor. Tar paper and lath was installed prior to the mud.

Side note: I apologize for the rotated pictures. I attempted to rotate prior to upload, but it didn't seem to correct the problem.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:46 PM   #3
Mr_Stop
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Kerdi board was installed in the shower. Floor was prepped with tar paper and lath. Kerdi drain and mud slope was then installed.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:49 PM   #4
Mr_Stop
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Shower floor and walls were sealed with Kerdi Membrane and Kerdi Band. Flood test was good.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:52 PM   #5
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Bathroom floor was installed using the Raimondi leveling System over Ditra underlayment (no pic). The floor was then grouted and the vanity set.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:58 PM   #6
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Brad, the only mud bed acceptable to the ceramic tile industry over a sawn board subfloor would be an unbonded, reinforced mud bed of a minimum 1 1/4" thickness with welded wire mesh in the vertical center. And that presumes joist spacing no greater than 16" on center and the boards perpendicular to the joists.

I trust you've evaluated your joist structure to ensure you met the required deflection of no more than L/360? And considered that you're adding a good deal of dead weight (about 18 pounds per square foot per inch of mud thickness plus tile). to the original structure.

You can tile over whatever you're comfortable with, of course, I'm just pointing out the industry standard requirements for your consideration.

[Edit] Now that I see the additional posts since I started my reply, I guess it doesn't matter at all since it appears you've already tiled your floor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:02 PM   #7
Mr_Stop
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Pebbles are starting to go on the floor. To hide the seems I placed the sheets about 2-4" away from each other and the walls and filled in the spaces by hand. What a tedious job!

Normally I install the floor last using a ledger for the walls. However, the vertical running bond pattern on the walls made the ledger technique difficult.

Next up is to start tiling the walls. I'm finding tile layout a bit challenging. The narrow vertical orientation of the tiles as well as the general shower and accent layout aren't leaving great solutions. Nothing is really centered. The drain and shower head had to be moved slightly off center due to an existing floor joist.

Sorry - picture upload failed. Will have to take a new photo tomorrow.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:14 PM   #8
Mr_Stop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
Brad, the only mud bed acceptable to the ceramic tile industry over a sawn board subfloor would be an unbonded, reinforced mud bed of a minimum 1 1/4" thickness with welded wire mesh in the vertical center. And that presumes joist spacing no greater than 16" on center and the boards perpendicular to the joists.

I trust you've evaluated your joist structure to ensure you met the required deflection of no more than L/360? And considered that you're adding a good deal of dead weight (about 18 pounds per square foot per inch of mud thickness plus tile). to the original structure.

You can tile over whatever you're comfortable with, of course, I'm just pointing out the industry standard requirements for your consideration.
Joist structure was evaluated prior and exceeds the L/360 standard. And you're not kidding about the weight! I carried and mixed about a 1,000 pounds of topping mix and sand for the shower and bathroom floor.

We had a discussion in a prior thread regarding hardwood floor and Ditra / tiling. Per your suggestion I ripped out the hardwood in both the bath floor and shower. I had read the same in the TCNA standard. However, John B suggested I would be ok with the other method. But yes, at this point the tile is down so we'll have finger's crossed!
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:23 PM   #9
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Question: For the 4x6" wall tile, I was going to use Laticrete 272 or 317. However, my supplier doesn't have it in stock. I have been using Ditra-Set for the banding and to set the floor tile. Is Ditra-Set ok for smaller format tile over Kerdi? The Ditra-Set bag mentions medium and large format tile, so I am a bit confused.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:59 PM   #10
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Ditra Set will be fine for all the applications I see on that project, Brad.
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