Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-03-2017, 10:40 AM   #16
cx
da Home-builder -- Moderator-at-Large
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 85,157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake
Cx, why do you say the durock is easier to work with than the Kerdi product.
Because it's true.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2017, 12:32 PM   #17
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 83
Got it done. Much easier than I anticipated. Thanks all!!!!

Two questions:

1. How do I get that top threaded drain assembly to detach? It seems rusted on good. My wrench cant get around it. Too big. Maybe a chain strap wrench?

2. Do I need to replace that hardwood floor with advantech?


Here are the pics:
Name:  1.jpg
Views: 126
Size:  45.0 KB

Name:  2.png
Views: 126
Size:  535.4 KB

Name:  3.jpg
Views: 126
Size:  41.1 KB

Name:  4.png
Views: 126
Size:  582.7 KB

Name:  5.png
Views: 124
Size:  546.9 KB

Name:  6.png
Views: 127
Size:  516.7 KB


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake

Last edited by jgleason; 11-05-2017 at 01:57 PM.
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2017, 01:07 PM   #18
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 83
Cut notches with my angle grinder. But I should have let the Pb blaster work. Ended up snapping 3/4 bolts on the flange.

Name:  1.png
Views: 127
Size:  591.3 KB

Name:  2.png
Views: 126
Size:  532.8 KB


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake

Last edited by jgleason; 11-05-2017 at 01:59 PM.
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2017, 08:52 PM   #19
Davy
Moderator -- Mud Man
 
Davy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 28,651
Jake, you'll need to replace that drain and it's usually worth replacing the P-trap while you're at it. Take up the hardwood and then cut a hole around the drain so you can get under the floor level and cut the drain out.

Decide what type of pan liner you want to use so you can use the appropriate drain.

Since you mentioned Advantech, I assume this is over a wood subfloor and not a concrete slab.
__________________
Davy

www.davystephenstile.com
Davy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2017, 03:56 PM   #20
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 83
Ripped out the floor and pulled out the flange.

Good advice on the ptrap. Shes coming out.

Im going to transition the cast iron to pvc pipe so I can connect the new shower drain assembly to the piping below WITHOUT access from below.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2017, 06:17 PM   #21
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 83
When water proofing with schluter Kerdi what do you use to seal corners greater than 90 degrees. Say 135 degree corners?

Name:  a.jpg
Views: 82
Size:  48.9 KB


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake

Last edited by jgleason; 11-25-2017 at 06:24 PM.
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2017, 08:37 PM   #22
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 11,721
KERDI-KERS-B are for waterproofing 135 angles between triangular shower benches and walls or the tops of curbs in neo-angle showers.

Schluter made the preformed corners to help minimize buildup and be a little faster, but you can use Kerdiband and make them yourself. You need the same 2" minimum overlap, but you can make any angle you wish.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2017, 07:21 AM   #23
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
KERDI-KERS-B are for waterproofing 135 angles between triangular shower benches and walls or the tops of curbs in neo-angle showers.



Schluter made the preformed corners to help minimize buildup and be a little faster, but you can use Kerdiband and make them yourself. You need the same 2" minimum overlap, but you can make any angle you wish.


Jad,

Do you just fold Kerdiband to match the shape of the corner?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2017, 12:47 PM   #24
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 11,721
I think there's an article in the liberry. Before Schluter made the preformed corners...you always had to fold your own.

Essentially, cut a square of Kerdiband. Fold it into quarters and crease (it doesn't crease really well). Cut one of those fold lines from the edge to the middle. Take those two flaps and fold them over onto each other. In a square corner, you'd bring them up to the fold, but for any other angle, there would be a gap. You'd want to then cut a separate piece to place over those folds. There will be a little spot in the middle without a double layer, but you can fudge it or if it really bothers you, put a dab of KerdiFix on it. They used this technique for years before they started to offer the preformed corners. It works. It creates a bit more buildup, but it's manageable if you're careful. Often, there's your sheet of Kerdi underneath, so you already have a second layer.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2017, 04:53 PM   #25
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 83
Thanks Jad! Great explanation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2017, 06:05 AM   #26
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 83
Replace/Repair lead pan shower

I have a shower opening that is 22 3/4 stud to stud.

The smallest glass door Ive found requires a minimum opening of 21 3/4.

If I tile the studs my opening goes to 21 7/16

Assuming:

- 1/4 cement board on the studs (main shower area is 1/2 cb)
- 5/16 thick tile
-1/8 thick mortar


The other option is to only tile one side of the opening and just use 1/4 cement board (redgaurded) on the opposite side. The non tiled surface can be painted.

Any other ideas?
Name:  1.png
Views: 17
Size:  447.3 KB



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake

Last edited by jgleason; 12-10-2017 at 07:54 AM.
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2017, 11:24 AM   #27
cx
da Home-builder -- Moderator-at-Large
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 85,157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake
Any other ideas?
1. Have a glass door made to fit your opening.

2. Move one side of the opening.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2017, 07:06 AM   #28
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 83
Trying to think about tile patterns for my shower. Its a asymmetrical hexagon.

I think most sides are too small to run a brick pattern.

I wasnt thinking this far ahead when I chose my tile pattern. I went with an 18x18 for all the bathroom walls. Too big.

What are my layout options? I could return the portion of tile slated for the shower and go with a more appropriate size if I need to. Would rather not.

I could also cut the tiles to get a better look. 9 x 6, 9 x 9, 18 x9.

Name:  1.png
Views: 18
Size:  559.4 KB

Name:  2.png
Views: 17
Size:  266.0 KB

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake

Last edited by jgleason; 12-10-2017 at 07:55 AM.
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2017, 12:57 PM   #29
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 11,721
You could still use those larger tile...you'd want to 'fold' them around the corners...i.e., use the cutoff piece on the adjacent wall. Keeping a nice clean, straight joint in all of those corners will be tricky and REALLY hard if the walls are not perfectly plumb. Trying to ensure you didn't have a sliver would be the harder thing. Note, on a tile that size, you probably don't want to use a 50% overlap...you need to check the tile to see how flat they are. A 50% overlap puts the crown at the end of the adjacent tile and usually creates a nasty lippage situation. You'd probably use the same technique with a smaller tile, but have LOTS more tile to cut and more opportunity for a joint to stagger in the corners. Last, when you cut a tile, the cut edge will look different than most tile (most have a slight rounded edge that doesn't look the same as a square one when cut). Trying to approximate the same look is tough and impossible if it's glazed on the cut edges after grouting.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2017, 04:26 PM   #30
branimal
Jake
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 83
So folding tiles over makes appear them appear as if they wrap the corner? That works.

For the inside 135 degree corners I bought schluter Kerdi profiles.
Regarding the sliver of tile - I can avoid that. I have an Excel spreadsheet that lets me see what the tiles sizes are on each wall before I cut. I input tile size, grout spacing, tile overlap and wall width. If I end up with pieces that are too small i adjust the center offset until I get decent sized tiles and maximize the number full tiles used.

Im going to shoot for 30% overlap. Maybe less.

Good call on not making smaller tiles out of my 18x18s.

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jake
branimal is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Shower Question - Replace both or just repair the problem? jsebastian Tile Forum/Advice Board 11 02-02-2015 06:21 PM
Repair or Replace this mud shower pan? Cgiff9 Tile Forum/Advice Board 19 07-21-2014 09:32 PM
Shower Pan Leak - Repair or Replace? Winkinwino Tile Forum/Advice Board 13 11-17-2006 10:44 PM
Repair/replace shower floor Mella Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 07-31-2006 12:07 PM
shower pan repair/replace? johnmctile Tile Forum/Advice Board 8 08-28-2003 04:38 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:58 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2014 John Bridge & Associates, LLC