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Old 04-14-2012, 09:10 PM   #16
Davestone
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I would use some vinegar,and regular dishsoap.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:47 PM   #17
lzena
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Stain removal results

Thanks Dave,

The vinegar worked perfectly. I used a stone cleaner instead of dish soap, only because it was already in the dispenser and I am too lazy to empty and refill it.

The vinegar actually did a good job in brigtening up the grout, I will post another pic when it is completely dry, to show the difference.

I am working out a cleaning procedure by doing a little test run on this area.

So far I am thinking:
1. A good clean with a high quality cleaner safe for use on stones to take the worst of the gunk off.
2. Strip.
3. Vinegar wash.
4. Was again with high quality stone cleaner.
5. Let it dry completely and spot check any stains.

Here is a picture of the vinegar results (still a little wet):

Thanks again!
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:03 PM   #18
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New question, grout against base boards

I was looking at the base board in the dining room area to see if I needed to protect them, or just rip them out and replace them.

They are actually in good condition, and as I am sure the 5 mm of tile covered by the baseboard is still clean, I am wondering if I can just cover the baseboard and clean around it.

My first instinct is too remove them for the clean, but I don't want to over complicate my life or do unnecessary work. In my experience these things always snowball, so the less I touch, the better. Any advice, should I leave or remove the baseboards?

Then also I noticed that in the kitchen area it has been grouted against the "baseboard?". The grout here is falling apart and water flows in under the kitchen cupboard. I am thinking I will have to remove a strip off grout and then reseal with caulk? I saw on the forum that someone suggested rubbing some dry grout powder on top of the caulk to make it blend in more with the area. How big should I make the gap for the caulk? Or I am I going completely into the wrong direction with this?

Some pictures of the grout that are against the kitchen cupboard and walls:
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:04 PM   #19
Davestone
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Yeah worked good.
I see you're thinking of stripping, i don't think there is any sealer on there is there?Does the tile soak in water?Do you think there is an impregnating sealer on it?That's a sealer that doesn't add a sheen,just soaks in and reduces absorption.

You can get grey caulk,or white caulk that'll work.Just caulk gaps and leave the board.You can tape over it to protect it while cleaning.
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:15 PM   #20
lzena
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Thanks Dave.

The tiles you see have already been stripped, as I am testing on this area. The rest of the tiles in this room are still sealed. (I did the water drop test on them.)

Any advice on removing the grout? a 5in1 tool? Or cut it out with a dremel grinding disk? It will be slow going, but I have time and I want to do this properly.

Then also, should I remove the grout before or after I strip. Obviously (I'm thinking) the caulk should be in before I seal, but I am a little hazy on where in my process to remove the grout and reseal with caulk.
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:56 AM   #21
Davestone
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A grout saw would work.If there is a crack between base and grout you don't need to make it bigger,just caulk.
I would caulk last,after sealing,you don't want caulk haze on raw saltillo.
Don't be afraid to clean the tile numerous times to remove stains and gunk.If you are sealing with a saltillo type solvent based sealer most stains will disappear.If you are using a water based better get the tile clean as you can.
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:27 PM   #22
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The tile and grout looks 100% better. Great job!
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:09 AM   #23
CRB
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I think you're set with your work Linda, and good effort on restoring a nice floor back to good condition.
I was just wondering if anyone still uses the traditional method of linseed oil let down to seal terracotta, followed by wax polishing, with the wax applied as an ongoing proceedure to build patina.
Over in UK we find mostly the acrylic seal wanted for a one off solution. I find those products often let down the look of the clay though plus get tatty over a short period. On a few occasions I have stripped back and gone the trad way for frustrated floor owners - to their delight at the difference at the end. ( slog of a job though! )
The buy in of a domestic polisher helps ease the work of the ongoing waxing.

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Old 04-19-2012, 05:33 PM   #24
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Exclamation How do I glue a corner back on?

Thanks for the comments everyone.

I was actually wondering if I could use lindseed oil and then still seal with a synthetic sealer. As mush as I love hard work, I really do not want to polish floors in this day and age. The reason I wanted to use the linseed oil is because I am thinking it will give the tile a richer colour.

So I took the grout out today. I couldn't leave it because it was cracked and loose, so I just pulled it out. There was this one piece that wouldn't come out easily so I decided to whack it...

Now I have two tiles with broken off corners. I know that was stupid and yada-yada yada. But how do I fix it? It is kinda hidden, so I was thinking of just gluing the corners back on with white glue (someone else mentioned using white glue to fill air pockets in clay tiles in another thread). I don't want to replace it, I have no spare tiles and it really won't be very visible and won't carry any load.

But if I don't put the corners back it will be very visible.

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Old 04-19-2012, 06:07 PM   #25
Davestone
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You won't be able to seal over linseed oil.Forget about linseed oil and floor wax,that was before sealers.
If you want a darker floor use a solvent based saltillo sealer.If the floor is gonna get wet don't use that, use a water based.

Don't use white glue,use a 5 minute epoxy,but be sure there is support under the piece with thinset otherwise it will,break again.
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:14 PM   #26
lzena
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Thanks Dave. I will do just that.

I hear you on the linseed too. Anybody want a free bottle?
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:32 PM   #27
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Stripping to start soon

I have found a good product which seems easy to use and yielded good results in testing. I can also use floor maintainer to do a lot of the work. I don't feel I have the experience needed to work with a strong noxious chemical like paint stripper.

However, I have to keep the tile wet for 45 minutes for the stripper to work well. That was easy enough to do when I was testing... Apply, sit and watch it with more of the stripper in a spray bottle... But like I mentioned, this is a 300 sft area. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this? Keep the tile wet that is.

Thanks!
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:32 PM   #28
lzena
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White powdery residue

I have stripped, acid washed and neutralized the tiles. Now there is a white powdery residue one most of the tiles. I can whipe it off, but it seems to come back. The tiles also seem a little bit faded.

I think it is efflorescence, but it could be stripper residue.

Any idea how I can be sure?
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:45 PM   #29
Davestone
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If the tile remains dry and you can brush off the powder it's effloresence.If you use a little more stripper on one tile and it cleans up it's probably sealer.
Aldon sells an effloresence treatment you apply and let sit,It carries the effloresence down.It usually turns whatever dark though,something to consider.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:58 PM   #30
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Thanks Dave. I will test.
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