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Old 04-14-2012, 05:27 AM   #1
Matts Handyman
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Retile - Existing shower in good shape, no leaks, no cracks

Good morning. Looking for a little advice on how to attack this next project.

Current shower is a non-standard footprint (5 sided) floor to 10ft ceiling (including ceiling) walk in shower with glass doors. The construction is 1994 pier and beam, first floor. Looks like the backerboard is Durock (cement board with fiber mesh inlay). Current tiles are 4x4 ceramic tiles.

New tile is 12x12 slate.

Shower is in good shape. No leaks, cracks, popping, etc. Clients just hate the tile.

Questions/Request for advice

I know it is possible to tile over existing tile, but the owners only want to go to the 8ft mark this time and skip the ceiling. I could make an even cut at that mark and then either Hardie or Green board the top portion and ceiling. However, I have gotten the impression from many of you that the scarring of the old tile to make the old tile rough is a painful process. Please advise if this would be your recommendation. What if the previous guy didn't leave me enough drain flange for the additional tile height?

Is it possible to just remove the tile and old thinset from the durock and pan, or is that just asking for trouble? Chipping, grinding, etc.

I have completed complete gut jobs with the old lathe and mortar tub surrounds, but have never removed Hardie or Durock or an existing pan. Knowing how many screws go down on the sheets, how is it getting the backerboards off the studs? I know that would tear up the pan and curb, so I would basically be looking at starting from scratch.

Cost and time are considerations.

Thank you for your time.
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:52 AM   #2
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Matt, gut it and start from scratch. That way you can offer the HO a professional job that you can be proud of. Doing it the way you are suggesting is the "handyman" way that you guys get a bad rap for. We can guide you thru the entire process and you can chalk it up as a learning experience that will only benefit you in the long run.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:33 AM   #3
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I am gonna agree with Chad, I tore out a shower the owner said was fine, looked okay. when we tore it out, the subfloor under the shower was rotted. It had a leak in one corner of the curb, the other corner had a lot of mold growing. I would do the job right and tear it out, start from scratch.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:42 AM   #4
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I should have mentioned that I have constructed new shower pans using the traditional method of sand mortar and rubber membrane. I have not used any of the Schluter products.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:45 AM   #5
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Understood.

What's the best approach to removing the Durock? Can you get it off in good sized pieces?
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:09 AM   #6
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Welcome, Matt.

How difficult it will be to remove the shower walls will depend upon how well they were built.

For such demo I favor the little hand-held wet saws available out there. I have the Felker FHS-4. Makes a little mess when connected to a water hose, but far, far less than cutting dry and easier to contain the mess in a shower.

Cut the walls, tile and all, into manageable pieces and remove the sections with crowbar and similar tools. Throwing the pieces out a window is handy if it'll work for your situation.

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Old 05-06-2012, 07:53 PM   #7
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Kerdi Obtuse Inside Outside Corners

Gents
Floor pan shape is 5 sided (roughly a 48 x 48 square pan with one corner cut at a 45) along the curb side. I have used the preformend inside/outside corner for all of the 90 deg corners, but haven't had any luck, or at least I am not 100% confident with the 135 deg corners using multiple overlaps.

Folding Kerdi on top of itself the way you would fold a traditional rubber memberane doesn't seem to work as I can't get the kerdi to seal to itself without gapping.

Any suggestions. Pictures or detailed descriptions would be much appreciated.

And, yes, I have a 3" overlap instead of using the bands.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:02 PM   #8
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Just wanted to say thank you.

The previous installer had utilized the traditional rubber membrane. He had installed it on the flat plywood and pre-wrapped the 2x4 curb. He then proceeded to nail durock to the curb, through the membrane with roofing nails on all three faces of the curb. One corner of the plywood flooring was below the drain and was holding water.

Complete tear out was necessary.

Kerdi Shower Install...
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:23 PM   #9
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Looks good Matt. Flood test er yet?

Bookmark this thread and keep posts here for us so we can all follow along and keep track of what's been asked and answered. We can rename this thread to something more generic if you'd like, just ask. Thanks.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt
Pictures or detailed descriptions would be much appreciated.
I'll see if i can find something. Do you have John's Kerdi ebook? I know it's in there.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:27 PM   #11
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water test is supposed to be tomorrow, but I might add another layer to the inside obtuse corners first.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:28 PM   #12
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E book just says that he has done it and you will overcome...
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:46 PM   #13
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p59 in his ebook, figure 102. You may end up with a little 'vortex' down there at the bottom inside corner, but not to worry. You can hit it with a little kerdi fix if you'd like.

edit; and a search here will find that post just fine no matter where it is.

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...archid=5708321
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:06 AM   #14
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I installed these this morning. In hindsight, I had probably already done this, but these patches made me feel better.

How long before I can water test?

I'll have to load pics at home....
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt
How long before I can water test?
Always wise to consult the manufacturer's installation instructions for that sort of data, Matt.

I believe you'll find 24 hours to be the minimum.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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