Duff's Bathroom Reno

[duffmcwhelan]

New to this site and very glad to have found it.

We're replacing an old tub and shower (will be using Kerdi board as recommended in Bridge's book that I downloaded yesterday). Our problem is that there is some mold on the joists under the bathroom and on some wall insulation. We'll replace the insulation, but hope to just clean the joists. There shouldn't be any more water to feed the mold once the reno is complete.

I've seen suggestions on cleaning from bleach, to vinegar, to Lysol spray. I would appreciate a recommendations / instructions from anyone who has encountered and corrected this problem.

Thanks

[Richard Tunison]

Welcome.

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ead.php?t=4991

[duffmcwhelan]

Appreciate the advice, Richard.

[Richard Tunison]

You are welcome.
Check out the Liberry for most questions you might have on your tub/shower build.

Please take a lot of pictures of the renovation. We love pictures.

Take the time to plug in your Joist specifications into the Deflecto in the blue bar at the top of the page and let us know what you have.

Have a nice Sunday.

[cx]

Welcome, Duff.

I'll move us over to the Advice forum. I think this isn't just gonna be a mold cleaning project, eh?

[duffmcwhelan]

I apologize in advance if this question has been answered before, I searched but could not find the answer.

We're replacing an alcove tub. Using 1/2" kerdi board around the three walls surrounding the tub. On one wall the kerdi will meet the 3/4" drywall (two layers of 3/8") on a straight wall. I'm guessing I'll have to build up that wall behind the 1/2 kerdi so the tile sits out properly. How do I join the kerdi to the drywall.

On the other end of the tub, I have an outside corner. How do I build that corner so that I can tile right to the edge, and have drywall on the other side? I have seen it mentioned that I can't use corner bead as I cannot affix the tile properly if that is in place.

I have all the materials that I need to do this project this weekend, but these questions have brought my project to a halt

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[cx]

Duff, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

I trust this joint falls well outside the shower's wet area?

If so, just treat it as any other sheetrock joint.

The other end I can't see from here. Best if you'll post a photo or two of your work area to get us all onna same page. Use the paper-clip icon immediately above the Reply dialog box to attach photos from storage on your computer.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[duffmcwhelan]

Here is the outside corner. We want to use the Kerdi board right to the corner, where it will meet the drywall.

Would I have to seal the drywall edge so the mortar cures properly, then cover with the Kerdi tape?

Thanks for the help, CX.

[duffmcwhelan]

I have attached a (very rough) sketch depicting the outside corner in question.

With reference to the sketch, how do I finish the wall where the Kerdi Board ends (A). My second question is where the drywall abuts the Kerdi (B), do I have to seal or finish that rough end of drywall to ensure proper adhesion.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks again.

[ckl111]

I think you need a corner bead at that location. You could always use a plastic one because of the moisture. You need to push and try to keep it as flat as possible to minimize the amount it sticks out on the tile side.

[duffmcwhelan]

I just noticed that there is no vapour barrier in the ceiling above where my bath and shower are. The bath is on inside walls. One side of the shower is on an outside wall, which does have a vapour barrier on that outside wall.

My (latest) question is - should there be a vapour barrier in the ceiling above the bath and shower and beneath the attic insulation? My first thought was that I could remove the attic insulation, apply a vapour barrier, and then put the insulation back in place. After doing some searches, I see that putting vapour barrier in the wrong place can cause a lot of problems - so I thought it best to check with the experts.

As always, your advice is most appreciated.

[ckl111]

Are you going to kerdi the ceiling?

You can do what you said but it is difficult to make it continuous because the trusses/ceiling joist will be in the way. Ideally, the entire ceiling is covered with one sheet of poly and then the drywall is installed. If the vapor barrier is not going to be continuous which would entail sealing ALL edges and joints, don't bother.

Just make sure you have a good seal around any penetration in the ceiling such as the ceiling fan so air doesn't freely escape into the attic.

[duffmcwhelan]

Thanks, Colin. We were not planning on putting Kerdi on the ceiling. We were hoping to leave the current drywall in place.

If it makes a difference, we're in Edmonton, Alberta, where we have temperature extremes in winter and summer.

[ckl111]

Hi Duff,

I am aware of your temperature extremes. They make Toronto seem like Florida in the winter.

Did you see any evidence of moisture damage in the attic when you were up there? If not, just leave what you have in place. It's not ideal but there is no point adding a vapor barrier piece meal. You are better off making sure to use the exhaust fan every time someone showers.

[duffmcwhelan]

Again, Colin, thanks.

I'm going to purchase a quality fan, and do the wiring such that the fan comes on when you turn on the light. I guess I'll be heading up to the attic too to see if we have any moisture problems there.