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Old 03-11-2012, 01:51 AM   #1
cj11
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casey's laundry bath - nice transitions

Husband and I have been working on our "new" house for 10 months, and I'm really ready to shower somewhere without iron stains and broken pipes. For baths, we're starting with the laundry bath because clean clothes and bodies were 2 of my 4 priorities.

The floor has been complete for several months, meaning I've got the clean clothes part solid! Now we're ready to slowly finish the shower. My first question (because there will be more) is about the wall/shower curb transition and about the curb/shower floor transition.

As I mentioned, we finished the floor (over Ditra) all the way up to the shower curb. I plan on using Rondec along the top edges of the curb. But what can I do about the bottom edges of the curb? I don't want not perfect tile cuts to show. My husband is great on the tile saw, but some chip out always happens.

For inside the shower, since I haven't done anything yet, I figure I can use DILEX-AHK (I can get it to match the Rondec). I just need to remember to use it when I do the curb tile (since I'll do that before the floor tile). Is that right? Is AHK the right option?

The bigger problem is with the floor/curb transition since the floor has already been tiled, and I didn't think ahead to this problem. What can I put at the bottom edge of the curb so that the cut tile edges at the bottom of the curb aren't obvious? (image attached)
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:23 AM   #2
Lazarus
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When you tile the curb, wouldn't the vertical tiles hide your cuts?
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:18 AM   #3
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When you tile the curb, wouldn't the vertical tiles hide your cuts?
Yes, the vertical tile would hide my floor cuts if I put the factory edge at the bottom. However, the top edge would then need to be cut. I haven't used Rondec, will it hide the cut edge if I place the cut edge at the top of the curb next to the Rondec?
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:09 AM   #4
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If I understand you correctly your concern is with having exposed cuts on the "bottom" of your outside curb tiles. Right? Not much can be done about that. The cut edges have to go somewhere. Might as well be on the bottom where it is least visible. Schluter transitions were never meant for hiding uneven cuts - your cuts will still need to be straight.

As for chipping, you might want to upgrade your blade. Some tiles are just prone to chipping and some are just more noticeable than others when the finish contrasts with the tile body. Best way to take care of this is when your caulking the change of planes. Tape off your caulk line just enough to cover the chips before caulking. Caulk it, smooth it out, pull the tape and "BAM", your chips have magically disappeared!
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:25 AM   #5
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Thanks for the caulking advice. Yes, it's the chipping being visible that concerns me, but I think your suggestion will work well.

As for my tools .. well, my last house was my tiling test ground, and after those experiences, I did a lot of reading on these forums. I owe the pros a lot of thanks because I never would have gotten my rectified floor tiles level without the great reviews of the Tuscan Leveling System (I've got some toe-stubbers in the previous house), and I wouldn't be at the minimal chip out I have now without the zipper blade. I think the problem is the saw it's on - best that $300 can buy. (Definitely a step up from my $80 HD saw used on the last house.)

I'll just need to remember that chip out occurs. I guess I should already know that. In the 3 entryways in this house, I used a tile with texture (little bumps) so that wet and snowy shoes are less likely to slip - those little bumps would not stay on when cutting, but they'll be hidden with hardwood t-mold transition. There's nothing to hide my edges in the bathroom (large format tiles just must be cut in some places), but some detailed caulking as you describe should do the trick.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:50 AM   #6
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Hi Casey,

I don't know of any Schluter profiles that will actually cover tile edges. The tiles butt up against them. You should be able to come up with reasonable cuts, though. I don't know what make and model saw you have, but there is usually a way to adjust the thing to align the blade so the cut doesn't chip excessively. You can usually see whether it's aligned correctly by using a framing square and pulling the blade along one leg of it (motor is not running). The slight chipping that results won't be visible when you're standing looking down.

What's more important than that is getting the cuts in line at the bottom of the curb and leaving the approximate same width of joint down there. I have never used any type of molding or other trim at that juncture.

The picture is of a curb that was done over an existing floor. I couldn't align the joints because the tiles were of slightly different sizes. That's my excuse looking back on it now, anyway.

I might have simply wanted to center the curb cuts. Don't remember. What we should be looking at are the cuts along the bottom.
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