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Old 03-02-2012, 01:25 PM   #1
JZeld
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JZeld's Master Bathroom Remodel

I have a 49" threshold to my bathroom that I want to match the marble tile I am going to lay down. I can only get the matching threshold in 36" lengths. Do you think it would look horrible to butt two pieces of threshold together? Thanks for any thoughts you might have.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:34 PM   #2
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Look horrible? Only after the ends chip and spall.

Choices;

A- centered grout joint
B- right grout joint
C- left grout joint
D- centered 36" piece and two 3 1/2" pieces with grout joints
E- matching one or two of the main floor joints in the threshold
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:44 PM   #3
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Welcome, Josh.

Threshold for what? Surely you don't have a 49" door.
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:45 PM   #4
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Maybe a 49" archway?

Few more options
-get 2x 36" thresholds and put the joint in the middle
-use knife grade epoxy + color tinting to glue the 2 pieces together for a virtually invisible joint. I'd glue the threshold pieces in place first on the floor first with a little gap, wait a day, then epoxy the joint.
-use a different material like wood, metal, etc...
-get a piece of stone to fit fabricated at a local counter top shop


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Old 03-02-2012, 03:01 PM   #5
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Go to a local granite shop......They usually have tons of leftover scraps and can fabricate a full-length threshold for you pretty reasonabally.....
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana
Maybe a 49" archway?
Mmmmm, with no door?

Now, let the record show that I do, in fact, have one house out there with one bathroom that has no door on the inside entry, but they're pretty uncommon in my travels.

Oh, and that particular one has a pair of french doors to an outside balcony from the shower, just no door from the bedroom.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:25 PM   #7
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Josh, I only use a threshold with moasics, so if your marble is not of the moasic variety then you could either butt the edge of the marble to the carpet or wood or, if it will be exposed, bullnose the last row in the doorway.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:44 PM   #8
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I was envisioning a suite setup with no door at the bed/bathroom transition, kinda like hotel rooms. There may be a door elsewhere in there... kinda hard tellin not knowin.
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:43 AM   #9
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Wow! Thanks for all of the responses. To set the record straight. The 49" inches is a typo. It is actually a hair over 48" and consists of double doors leading into the bathroom.

I'll have to consult "the boss" on all of your suggestions. Thanks again for your help. Just found this forum recently, but love it already.
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Old 03-03-2012, 05:49 AM   #10
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Custom made from a local faricator. It will be the first thing you see entering room.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:24 AM   #11
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(Pic Attached) Master BR Demo: Now Have Subfloor Questions

GOAL: Install floor heating system and then 1/2" 18" x 18" marble tile on bathroom floor

I spent yesterday ripping out my existing master bathroom. The bath is only about 8 years old, but the tile in there was horrible. After getting rid of the tile on the floor, I found that there were two layers of plywood one about 7/8" and the other 1/2". The existing tile was layed directly on the top layer of plywood. The top layer of plywood is screwed down, but in seeing if I could remove it and start new, I found that it also seems to be glued or thinset down. Even after removing screws, I can't get it up with a prybar.

QUESTIONS: (1) Is it appropriate to leave the 1/2" plywood down, remove all the thinset still on the surface, install 1/4" Hardie backerboard and then install heating system/marble tile over that?

(2) What about installing the heating system/marble directly over the existing 1/2" plywood? My understanding is that I probably want a firmer surface, but I wanted to check.

(3) What do I do about the transition from the bathroom to the master bedroom? If I add the 1/4" Hardie Backerboard, plus allow 1/8" for the heating system, plus the additional height of the tile (the existing tile was very thin), I'm figuring I'm at least 1/2" higher when all said and done.

Thanks for any help you can provide.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:29 AM   #12
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1) Yes, that would be OK.

2) No, a tile-on-plywood installation requires the layers NOT to be glued together. You won't have any movement isolation if you didn't use a backerboard or membrane.

3) Remove the granite threshold and have a tapered wooden threshold fabricated to match the hallway flooring.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:20 AM   #13
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Thanks BBCamp! So, I just make sure to remove all of the thinset off of the 1/2" plywood and then put on the Hardie board? Any tips on how best to accomplish this? The thinset comes off fairly easily, but near the shower there seems to be some other sort of harder compound (likely shower mud).
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:22 AM   #14
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Get a 4" razor scraper with a long handle. It'll be a workout.

Remember to install the backerboard exactly per the manufacturer's instructions!
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:52 AM   #15
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Need help with removal tips: poured mud shower base

I've almost completely gutted my bathroom for a tile job and installation of a prefabricated steam shower (this one here http://www.fixtureuniverse.com/produ...=1659&cse=1659). I've taken down the tile shower walls because I need the space for the shower install. I am now down to the poured mud base and this thing is really solid. Does anyone have any advice on getting this thing out, or is it just a matter of pounding on it with a sledge for a little while? Maybe one I start breaking it apart it will start moving a bit quicker but I tried using a hammer and wasn't getting anyplace. Plan to go out and buy a sledge today.

Thanks for any help.
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