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Old 02-14-2018, 03:32 AM   #16
ONC_ben
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oriental, NC
Posts: 28
So this project has seen some delays.. Got my CBU thinsetted and screwed into place.

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This picture is before I taped the CBU, but it is now all taped.

Since installing the CBU, I borrowed a 10' aluminum 2x4 bar and a 4 foot level from a buddy that does a lot of concrete work, and checked the floor for level and flatness every one foot on both axes.

The outside walls (in front and on left in this picture) rest on house foundation, and floor is essentially level within a few inches of both walls.

Problem is, it slopes down about 3/8" going from the far wall towards the camera in the picture, and 5/8" from left to right in the picture.

There are some humps and valleys between far wall and camera (joists run left to right,) and I have marked the depth of variations from level every foot in both directions.

I now realize with back of envelope calculations that my 4x 50 Lb. bags of SLC will not level this floor.

The SLC specifies it can be poured up to 1" in single application.

But I am beginning to worry a bit about:

a) the total weight of the amount of SLC I will need to apply to level this floor;

b) the transition from the 3/4" hardwood floor I will install to the edge of tiled kitchen floor.

Only the very edge on the right side of picture is 5/8" from level, the vast majority of the floor is 1/4" or less from level.

But on the right hand side, there will be a strip of 5/8" SLC over the 1/4" durock and i guess about 1/8" of thinset under that..

add another 1/8" of thinset and 5/16" of tile, and total height of floor on right side will be 1 7/16" inch thickness, a difference of 11/16" from the future 3/4" wood flooring.

That is close to a 3/4" difference between height of about 1' strip on right edge of kitchen floor and height of future abutting hardwood flooring.

I can perhaps shim up hardwood floor installation a 1/4" around there, but that still leaves a 1/2" difference.

This space will eventually be occupied by kitchen cabinets up to edge of tile floor, so it wont be a tripping hazard, but I can't think of any way to make it look pretty. Even with a metal edge, the metal will be visible rising above the wood flooring.

So I am stymied what to do.

Would it be feasible for me to rip out a 6" to 8" strip of the durock along the left and far walls, then use SLC to fill that space in and level rest of floor?

That would cut down a tremendous amount of the differential between wood floor and tile on right side of this room. But it would mean pouring SLC partially on plywood subfloor (would need to install lathe) and most of it over the CBU.

Would that result in crack in SLC (and tile) along border between CBU and plywood substrates under SLC ?

I have seen a youtube video of floor installer using sheets of ply to fill in very deep areas of a larger floor before putting in SLC, pointing out that by doing so he saved having to purchase a bunch more bags of SLC. But he doesnt have video of the floor 1 year after installation.

Now that I have access to a 10' aluminum bar, I really would love to just get some mud I can screed in to match the slope of the floor to make it flat instead of flat AND level.

But I just haven't been able to figure out what product I could use to do that.

What to do in this situation?? Please Help!! I need to get this floor done so I can cook again
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Ben

Last edited by ONC_ben; 02-14-2018 at 03:41 AM.
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