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Old 12-15-2017, 12:41 PM   #4
Tool Guy - Kg
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 19,967
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shady at Best
When cutting a bevel in wood with an electric saw. Why does the bevel cut take longer to cut. It seems that its a tougher cut for the saw. I realize that the material becomes thicker when cut this way but i am pretty sure the thickness to time ratio doesnt jive up.
Technically, that's incorrect, but you're not far off. Increasing the amount of wood that needs to be cut is indeed tougher on the motor. However, it's probably the teeth of the blade that's a far bigger component to what you are objecting to. The limitation of each tooth's cutting ability and how fast the sawdust can be extracted is probably the "feedback" you're detecting in terms of cut speed and motor bog-down. Like Jeff mentioned, the type of tooth configuration plays a big part in cutting performance. I can think of several, but three common blades you'll find at many box stores are: "alternate top bevel", "triple chip", and "combination". But that's not all. The tooth hook angle, how big each gullet it, the clearance angle, how wide of a kerf is being cut......I could go on, but it would be boring. Point is, each of these variables come with certain pros and cons. Some blades cut fast, some slow, some straight, some slightly wavy. First, pick out your blade configuration based on what you want to cut and the tool doing the cutting (like miter saw or table saw). Then tweak it even more by selecting tooth geometry and gullet size to match the material and the type of cut you want to make. Are you cutting hardwood or softwood? Wet or dry?

One problem when we go to the box store is that the selection of blades is either limited, or it's not clear what to buy. The folks in the aprons are typically under-trained and can't help. And to top it off, most box stores attempt to "be everything for everyone", so they stock the shelves with blades that are "all around" blades that will sort of cut everything you throw at them....but with mediocre results. Most folks neither know nor care and are perfectly happy with a $15 "all around" blade. There's a few specialty blades at the box stores, but it might not be easy to decipher them.

If you tell us specifically what wood you are cutting, what tool is doing the cutting, and what type of cuts you wanna make, we can make more specific blade suggestions.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Shady at Best
Another issue is the blade smoking whilst cutting at an angle. Even when the blade is brand new.
Same thing. It's the type of blade versus the type of material being cut. The fact that it's smoking tells you that excessive heat is being generated at the tip or binding with the blade. The fact that it's new and it's smoking tells you that the blade is either not properly sharp or that the configuration is not suited to this particular cutting. Tell us what you're cutting and and what blade you're using.

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