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-   -   Basement bath remodel (http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=121174)

BimmerRacer 10-23-2016 10:52 AM

Basement bath remodel
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi folks,

Back after some time away and some family additions :) and looking to do a basement bath remodel. My first challenge ( I am sure there will be many) is the closet flange. I posted over on TerryLove but I wanted to a. ask here as well and b. get the project thread started. SO...

The bath previously had carpeting and the toilet set right on the concrete slab. I am planning on using Ditra and tile so I am looking at 5/8" of finished floor height. It's my understanding that the closet flange needs to sit and be supported by the finished floor.

Below are the pictures of what I have now. The flange doesn't appear to me in too bad of shape but it's not leveled and the back side isn't supported. I also don't think it's screwed into the concrete.

So, my questions are:
- is it best to remove the existing flange and if so, how?
- finish the floor as planned and install a new flange? if so, what kind?
- if installing a new flange, I am assuming the leveling issue will transfer over since I am assuming it's the sewer pipe thats actually isn't 100% vertical.

Finally, is it doable a doable DIY? or is this better left to a plumber? I have done plumbing with PVC/CPVC, PEX, and copper but to be honest this kinda scares me!

Thanks
jason

sycamorebob 10-23-2016 11:25 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Jason if it was mine i would not touch it.

If you want to replace you would cut the top off with a grinder and use one of these with metal ring. Is sewer gas explosive?
Sewer gas diffuses and mixes with indoor air, and will be most concentrated where it is entering the home. It can accumulate in basements. Explosion and fire. Methane and hydrogen sulfide are flammable and highly explosive.

Davy 10-23-2016 06:09 PM

Like Patrick, I'd probably clean it up and leave it as is. They do make extra thick wax rings that you can use if you think it's needed.

BimmerRacer 10-29-2016 07:59 AM

Thanks

Now the water proofing questions for the tub surround.

I am undecided on the type of cement board at this point because I am not sure which one will mate to the drywall better after the tub install and if I have to notch or add furring to the studs. One of the walls is of course way off so I'll have to sister/shave it first. But it will be either Durock or Hardi.

The back wall is to the outside, partially underground cinderblock wall. The right wall is open to the uninsulated space under the stairs. I am planning on using Hydroban and tiling all the way up to the ceiling. The tub is a 3 wall alcove with a flange.

- Should I do a vapor barrier behind the CBU?
- Does said vapor barrier only go behind the one exterior wall overlapping some onto the corners of the adjacent walls?
- The wall on the right which is partially opened to the uninsulated space under the steps and partially to the wall/stairs previously had no insulation, should I add? (I'll take a picture to maybe explain this better?)
-If I don't do a vapor barrier since it's not a steam shower, do I need to worry about wicking? I saw some threads about 6" or so of 6 mil plastic being applied above the tub deck.
- Gap between the tub deck and the CBU? Fill with Laticrete/Kerdifix and paint Hydroban over it?

Thanks!

cx 10-29-2016 09:53 AM

1. You don't need a vapor barrier anywhere in a residential shower (presuming there is a shower in this tub enclosure). You can use a moisture barrier behind the CBU wallboard if you are not planning to waterproof the inside of the wallboard.

2. See #1. If you use a moisture barrier behind the wallboard as your moisture containment method, you must use it behind all the walls and a little beyond the front of the tub.

3. I would always add insulation in walls separating conditioned from unconditioned spaces.

4. Don't understand the question.

5. If you use the moisture barrier, you wouldn't do anything at all to that gap. The moisture barrier material would go through it and lap over the tub's tiling flange.

My opinion; worth price charged.

BimmerRacer 10-29-2016 11:19 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks CX. I guess I am mixing moisture and vapor barriers.

so the follow up onto #4 and #5. If I don't use poly, how do I prevent moisture from the bottom of the cement board from wicking up and behind the board?

And a #6.

I am planning on setting the tub in mud, do I need to do anything about the crack in the slab prior to it?

cx 10-29-2016 11:29 AM

1. If your CBU is gapped above the tub or the tub flange, there should be no water available to wick up the CBU. The waterproofing membrane on the interior of the CBU will prevent moisture from entering behind your tile.

6. I wouldn't.

My opinion; worth price charged.

BimmerRacer 10-02-2017 05:49 PM

Hi,

Few questions regarding threshold and a niche

1. How does one set a 4" wide threshold in an existing door opening? It seems like cutting the casing would be ideal but by how much? How do you slide and set the marble under it and in my case on top of Ditra?

2. Niche vertical placement - I am using 20x50cm tile, which is roughly 8x20" and the Laticrete's preformed niche is 12x6" and 12x12". Any suggestions on how to best deal with the layout here as in where to best land the horizontal grout lines.

The material in question is carrera marble, if that matters here at all.

Thanks

BimmerRacer 10-04-2017 02:34 AM

Bump for previos questions a one more

-- Can this be used over the carpet pad glue residue and under Ditra instead of scraping/grinding? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Bu...MBP1/205486856

BimmerRacer 10-05-2017 01:04 PM

:shrug::idea::scratch::)

rmckee84 10-05-2017 05:46 PM

1. Just pull the door if it looks like it will be easier. Reseting a door is pretty simple

2. I like to make my own niches that way I can make them to the size that best fits the layout and size of the tile.

3. Regardless of primer its best to scrape any glue so its reduced to just a residue, then prime.

BimmerRacer 10-05-2017 07:08 PM

1. You might be onto something here. I want to replace the door slab anyway since I hate 6 panel doors.

3. I tried this evening and it does looks like it's water soluble. Still looks to be a PIA

rmckee84 10-05-2017 07:14 PM

Straight edge razor floor scraper usually makes pretty short work of it

BimmerRacer 10-05-2017 07:19 PM

thanks!

BimmerRacer 10-16-2017 08:04 AM

Question about Durock joints, specifically corners. I have a few gaps larger than 1/8".

Do I use fiberglass tape/thinset and hydroban over it or should I do both the tape and Laticrete fabric in the corners?

TEC Skill Set mortars from Lowes -- any particular one is better than the other for joints? I am going to use Laticrete for tile after hydroban but I haven't purchased it nor I want to open a bag for just doing the joints.

Thanks


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