Tiling shower door jamb [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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Gil Smith
01-23-2004, 10:12 PM
I've searched for this topic and I think I remember it being discussed so if there's a thread on this please point me to it.

My question relates to the tile around the inside of the shower door jamb. I want to tile inside the jamb but I don't want tile on the outside wall. My reason is that the opening for the door is 8 feet tall (9 foot ceiling in the bathroom - shower is firred down 1 foot) and about 38 inches wide. I just don't think tiling around such a large opening will be attractive as it would just be a border adding emphasis to an already gaping hole. There won't be any tile on the bathroom walls except backsplashes for the tub and lavatory.

I'm planning on a framed glass pivot door by Kohler because the opening is just too big IMO for a frameless door.

So I'm wondering how to handle the corner where the tile in the jamb will meet the sheetrock bathroom wall. I'll have 1/2" CBU in the jamb and 1/2" drywall around the door opening.

Do I run the CBU in the jamb past the sheetrock on the outside wall or vice versa? How do I treat the corner where the two materials meet? There will be a mortar line between the tille in the jamb and the bathroom wall.......do I fill this with caulk and paint? Will this method give me a durable suface or will I be constantly filling this crack and repainting?

Is this a bad idea?

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tileguytodd
01-23-2004, 10:48 PM
Gil, i'm not quite sure exactly what your doing but i'll take a stab at it as i understand it.
If you have a framed shower door.install the door and tile up to the frame.On the outside corner,use a metal corner bead and sheetrock mud to finish around the corner.When finished,prime and paint.
If the frame for the shower does not go all the way to the top of the jamb,I wouldnt consider this and would tile the entire jamb.The corner bead should still be used and mudded.pay special attention to keeping the corner bead flat and tight.Mud to level,paint outside wall and around corner slightly then trim with bullnose at the corner.
I would run the outside sheetrock edge over the cut edge of the CBU and once again,use the metal corner bead!!

Gil Smith
01-23-2004, 11:25 PM
Thanks for the response, Todd. I think you've got the general idea. My shower door frame is 70" tall and the opening in the shower is nearly 96" high, so I think I need to tile the entire jamb (either side of the door, that is). My shower head is at 80" (I'm 6'3" and tired of stooping in the shower! :D ) so I don't think I should stop the tile at the top of the shower door......my plan was to tile the walls and jambs up to the ceiling of the shower. I don't necessarily want to tile the ceiling unless I have to in order to make everything work. I like your suggestion to tile only the jamb behind the door frame, but I don't think it will work in my case.

As I understand what you're saying, the bullnose tiles would overlap the metal corner bead. Do I apply thinset to the painted corner bead, or do I leave a gap for caulk? Why the paint around the corner?

Is this conventional, or am I trying to do something wierd here? I could trim with bullnose on the outside wall but I think I'd need to drop the top of the opening maybe a foot to make it look right, and I kind of like the idea of the ceiling being open to the rest of the room, without the moisture trap I would create if I dropped the opening down.

Does this make any sense? Thanks again.

doitright
01-23-2004, 11:54 PM
Hi Gil :) Welcome,

We're all on the same page here (I think). Don't put the header across the door opening (unless you plan on tiling the ceiling), or it will be a moisture trap as you indicated.

I think Todd is mentioning to paint slightly around the corner bead (bullnose side), so after tiling and grouting, there's not a possibility of having some raw unfinished corner bead. Extra precaution, so to speak. It's also not bad to put some protective coating on the cornerbead anyway.

You mentioned a Kohler door. Have you checked out Basco? You can get custom sizes and thicker glass if you want. It's worth a check. You could also check a local glass shop, and have them quote you on a nice 3/8" thick glass door with no trim. Very nice to show off your tile work! ;)

tileguytodd
01-24-2004, 06:36 PM
Thanks for the follow up John :)

Gil Smith
01-24-2004, 07:06 PM
Thanks, guys. No, I haven't seen the Basco door but from the website photos and specs it looks like a clone of the Kohler door.....headerless, pivot hinges, magnetic latch, etc. Have you compared them? The closest Basco dealer is in Katy and I'm 150 miles away in Austin. About the only time I get over to Katy is to eat at Los Cucos (my bro's favorite Mexican restaurant), and then I'm in no shape to haul a shower door home. :p

If there's something superior about the Basco door though it might be worth the trip.....who knows, I might see some celebrity hanging out over there. :D

I too like the look of the frameless door but I shy away because of the width (36"+) and all the weight. I guess I still have time to reconsider since a frameless would be custom built anyway, but then there's also the cost.....the Kohler retails for about $300 and local HD's sell for $210. The frameless would probably run 3-4 times that, right?

Thanks again!

doitright
01-24-2004, 09:24 PM
Gil,

Good guess! It's also got that much more glass, and of course weighs a few pounds as well. It was just an idea. As far as the Basco vs. Kohler, they're both quality doors. If you can get the HD version for that price, I'd stop looking and order it as soon as you have and accurate dimension of the door opening.

Todd,

Anytime! Didn't mean to step on your toes. It's hard to keep up with all these threads, and I figure it's always good to put in different viewpoints (without adding confusion, if that's possible). It definitely helps keep me in check! ;)

tileguytodd
01-25-2004, 08:07 AM
Dont worry about my toes John, They are like Old Leather and can take it. I'd rather see people get thier questions answered quickly and i certainly cant be here 24/7.
Step in any time John and Welcome to it :)

Gil, I'm Glad to see you got things handled,And yes it will cost more(perhaps 3-4 times as much) and it is also heavier.It will also require that you do some waterproofing to be safe on the outside of the shower due to the fact that there is no bottom sweep and no matter how much of a slope you put on your curb,water seems to escape.at least some.
They look great, they are not in my opinion practical for any shower where water will be splashing directly on the door itself.They are wonderful for showers that have an L Pattern to them.......:)

John Bridge
01-25-2004, 10:01 AM
I think you should use a corner bead or L metal at the outside corner and end with a bullnose tile there. Mount the shower door/enclosure on the tile. :)

Gil Smith
01-26-2004, 01:07 PM
Thanks, all. JB, that's exactly what I intend to do! ;)